Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have pulled the passenger side stand pipe and HPOP cover trying to find a leak . When I test the system with air I can here a leak from in the motor some where . Checked the new stand pipe O ring it is good . Funny thing is when I pulled the HPOP cover the bolts holding the pump down were a little loose . I just changed it and remember tighting it down completly . I could not tourqe it because I could not get tourqe wrench in there . The truck never started could this have craked the branch tube in there somewhere .

I tightend the bolts and it made no diffrence . I tested from the plug on top of pump and you can hear a lot of air leaking . But when I test from IPC on the on the oil rail you there is not as much air leaking . Am I missing something? Could it be leaking from some were else ? Injectors seals, stand pipes ,and plugs are new . This truck has not started since I did head gaskets and studs .

Things I changed so far :

HPOP
IPR and screen
Head gaskests
studs
Oil cooler
EGR delete
Cleaned and rebuilt turbo

If I have to pull this motor now and fix a branch tube leak I and going to ............Well do it but I aint going to be happy about it .
 

·
WWW.COMPIGNTECH.COM
Joined
·
8,777 Posts
LOL I love your last quote. HAHAHAHA I can't stop laughing at it. Did you happen to replace the dummy plugs in the front of the high pressure oil rails? Also check to make sure that you don't have bad o-rings on the injectors where the nipples from the HPO rail seat into them. And check the nipples on the rails for nicks or damage as well.

Also get a good scanner such as Auto Enginuity with the ford expansion pack on it and check to make sure that your getting FICM Sync Yes and also read what your icp values actual vs desired and ipr values actual vs desired are and post them back that will help to diagnose this a little bit better.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,700 Posts
are you commanding the IPR closed when you are air testing? 12v applied to it will close the system. If not what you are hearing is the air coming out of the IPR dump on the back of the high pressure pump.

So the engine ran fine before you did head gaskets? A good place to start is with a scantool
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Yes , I changed the dummy plugs also . I have and Edge insight and ficm was 48volts I do not remember what the rest were . I might have to put everything back together and check the other values again. I am getting good at removing everthing .

The injector seals on top are good and stand pipes orings look good also . Its just something in the block leaking air ? This has been an month long project and ready to get this thing started ...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Motor was taken down because of bad oil cooler . I went ahead and studed it and gaskets since I was in there . But it drove and ran ok till I pulled it down. I did close the IPR valve but the leak was still there . The leak is not comming from the HPOP sound like in motor some where .
 

·
Love all, Trust a Few...
Joined
·
4,852 Posts
you can rig a hose with a high pressure gauge (around 3000 psi) on the icp sensor port, turn it over and see what psi you are getting.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
137 Posts
There's three injector o rings btw.. Smaller, larger and one on the plug.. Reset your fuel switch on the passenger kick panel. Check and make sure you are getting enough oil pressure to fill up oil filter housing. Hold down the spring and have a friend crank to check it. Same with fuel. Check your oil levels too. I always drain the oil after a stud job. Change the fuel filters as well. I just had a no start that needed a fuel filter so bad it wouldn't start. Check your battery connections and ground cables. Check fuse 22.. Matter of fact, take a small flashlight and check every fuse to see if any are blown.. Takes two minutes. it's probably the IPR valve.. Btw.. There's no way you can't get a torque wrench in to tighten the three bolts holding down the HPOP or Stc fitting. Don't recall you saying you changed that to the one piece or not, maybe you did. Pull the turbo, undo the EGR clamp, and there's 8 or so.. Maybe 7 bolts.. But I can get a 3/8" torque wrench in there with the t45 socket and the 8mm or 10mm (don't really remember) for the Stc to branch tubes. You really need a scanner to check ficm in/out volts. A good one will tell you whether it's sync'd or not. Chances are, after you did the work, there is some bull**** in the ipr valve.. I don't clean them.. If I'm taking them out, I'm putting in a new one. I don't do anything twice.


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top