[JLimb]

I have a 2000 F250 4x4. Acouple of weeks ago on my way home from work during a torrential rain I hit a huge puddle. The wheel got yanked from my hands. A few days later the truck started to pull hard to the right. I took it in thinking the alignment was out. They told me the calipers were seized and I needed a brake job. I had the complete brake job done and now what happens is strange. It feels like the the brakes are alternately grabbing on their own back and forth. One side will grab , then let off and then the other side. I have brought it back to the shop three times to no avail. Could it be the ABS sensors ? When driving you can see it in the wheel when the brakes are doing their thing. Any ideas would be most appreciated.

 

[Flatbedstroker]

Did they turn or put new rotors on when they did your breaks? New pads and warped rotors can cause your wheel to shake. Or ive heard of some shops "turning rotors" and not actually doing it thinking they will get away with it, in many cases im sure they do since sometimes you couldnt tell without checking the rotors when u first had the job done or ur pads wearing quickly?


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[JLimb]

Could it be the caliper slide pins ? They put in new calipers, but I'm not sure whether they replaced the pins or greased them.

 

[Flatbedstroker]

I would say no, if slid pins dont get lubed the brake pad on the caliper side of the rotor wers the heardest do to the other pad not getting pulled into the rotor but ive never heard of it causing the breaks to activate one side after the other on there own but dont completely rule that out, i could be wrong, maybe somebody know btter than i do which is very possible. Besides that even though i doubt its ur problem id check anyways because you dont want your slide pin to be ceased up. I saw a guys 7.3 get so bad it went clear through the pad backing and rip a piston out of the caliper and the other pad looked brand new and when fixing it, i had to order a new caliper bracket and slide pin because it was stuck so bad we heated and heated and heated and finally broke the slide pin off then we obviously had no chance of getting the reast out to slvage the bracket


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[brinker]

Sounds like warped rotors to me. Does it do it all the time? What a about at different speeds?

 

[JLimb]

Sounds like warped rotors to me. Does it do it all the time? What a about at different speeds?

Seems to do it more when the truck has been sitting for several hours. When the brakes are being used and are warm it doesn't happen so much. I notice it more at speeds under thirty five miles per hour.

 

[brinker]

Seems to do it more when the truck has been sitting for several hours. When the brakes are being used and are warm it doesn't happen so much. I notice it more at speeds under thirty five miles per hour.

Hmm warped rotors normaly do it when hot if not all the time when the get bad enought. Off hand i don't have any other ideas

 

[JLimb]

They replaced the rotors as well as calipers and pads. I suppose the calipers could have been bad out of the box. Not sure what to do at this point. Could it be the computer or the sensors ? Maybe the sensors are reading the tires at different speeds from one another.

 

[NYC F-350]

<cough cough> axle u-joints <cough cough>

 

[JLimb]

Mechanic did the right front bearings at the time of the brake job so if universals were bad wouldn't they have seen them as well ? Truck is not shaking at all. When braking hard it will pull to one side or the other. Would running a scan on the computer show anything ? I am a novice with mechanicals.Thanks.

 

[NYC F-350]

Mechanic did the right front bearings at the time of the brake job so if universals were bad wouldn't they have seen them as well ? Truck is not shaking at all. When braking hard it will pull to one side or the other. Would running a scan on the computer show anything ? I am a novice with mechanicals.Thanks.

A scan would be absolutely pointless.
The mechanic would not necessarily replace the u-joint on the axle.
Don't assume he did, go take a peek and look at it. If it is new it will look new. I am willing to bet that he did not and that the u-joint is your issue.

I had the right front ball joints done at a garage. I was standing right there as the mechanic did the work. He and I both checked the u-joint on the axle.
It seemed to be fine, but a day or two later the problem showed up. Just moving the u-joint beyond where it normally did in its lifetime can screw it up. It is a wear item and crap happens. If it wasn't replaced, replace it.

 

[mechanix]

Only time the Ujoint should pose a problem is if the truck is in four wheel drive, other wise the hub spins freely in relation to the front axle shaft.

This sounds like an interesting problem. Did you only have brakes done on the front axle or the rear aswell? Did they change out the brake hoses out at the same time as the calipers? Did they install "complete" calipers with the caliper bracket or just the caliper? Are the slides free moving?

I do think if something has went wrong in the ABS system with the sensor the result could be the issues you are having. But you would need to have a scanner to get a better idea.

Eric

 

[NYC F-350]

Only time the Ujoint should pose a problem is if the truck is in four wheel drive, other wise the hub spins freely in relation to the front axle shaft.

True, they do spin independent when not engaged, but I assure you that should a u-joint seize on the axle, you WILL get a weird side-to-side pull/vibration.
I had one seize on me a few weeks after having someone else do the ball joints on one side.
At first, it was a little vibration. It quickly manifested itself into the truck pulling hard to one side. If I stopped the truck, revved up the engine and turned the wheels from lock to lock, it would be ok for a bit. If you turned onto a sidestreet, you had to physically pull the steering wheel back.
The point is that while it is independent of the hub bearing, if it seizes off kilter, it will pull to one side. If it is in a position that the axle can spin (even though it is independent, it will still spin) it will flop the steering wheel from left to right with each rotation.
Judging by the OP's description, this is what I think is going on.

 

[ddog]

when you replace the calipers and rotors are turned .... does a power bleeder
need to be used on the ABS system ???

 

[NYC F-350]

No, not usually.
If you allow air to enter the system enough for it to reach the ABS pump, then it would need it. (I assume you meant a bleeder that can cycle the ABS solenoids to bleed out the air)

 

[theoldwizard1]

Based purely on the age of the truck, you initial guess, ABS sensors, could be correct. You have to pull the wheel, caliper and rotor to get a good look at them. If there is a lot of corrosion on the sensor, I would replace it.

My 14 year old E-series started braking oddly a while ago. New sensor fixed it up.

Something cheap, quick and temporary. Used some fine sandpaper/emery cloth and clean the corrosion off of the sensor. Basically free. Not a long term fix.

 

[Biggsw784]

I know that if it becomes to pull one side to another that the pressures to the calipers adifferent. Replace both brake hoses to the calipers. Over time, the rubber will become to swell inside the hose causing a restriction to the fluid to the caliper. Usually only one will do it intermittingly but obviously both of yours are doing it. Replace both and I will guarentee your problem will be solved.

 

[Term3]

True, they do spin independent when not engaged, but I assure you that should a u-joint seize on the axle, you WILL get a weird side-to-side pull/vibration.
I had one seize on me a few weeks after having someone else do the ball joints on one side.
At first, it was a little vibration. It quickly manifested itself into the truck pulling hard to one side. If I stopped the truck, revved up the engine and turned the wheels from lock to lock, it would be ok for a bit. If you turned onto a sidestreet, you had to physically pull the steering wheel back.
The point is that while it is independent of the hub bearing, if it seizes off kilter, it will pull to one side. If it is in a position that the axle can spin (even though it is independent, it will still spin) it will flop the steering wheel from left to right with each rotation.
Judging by the OP's description, this is what I think is going on.

This is what mine did when my u-joint and ball joint seized up.