Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum banner

1 - 20 of 169 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here goes - inspired by fishermedic I'm tearing into my '07 6.0 to install BPD's full bulletproof system. This motor got it's head gaskets replaced by the dealer @72k miles, and dealer replaced high pressure O rings @102k. Now at 103k an oil cooler rupture, so I'll do it myself this time! I'm not a mechanic, don't have a garage and have never torn into a diesel before - I did rebuild a 305ci about 20 yrs ago, so some of the parts look familiar... don't have a job either so I do have some time ... wish me luck!

When changing the oil I noticed oil foam in the degas bottle - here's my drained coolant:


So it's time to jump in! Can't imagine anyone tries this job without a topside creeper...


Day 1 in the books - removed batteries, intake tube, degas bottle, alternator, CAC duct, turbo, pedestal, and drain tube, and heater tube.


A couple challenges along the way today -
1) There has to be a trick to release the tension on the serpentine belt - musta spent an hour trying to get a wrench and my hand between the fan stator & the belt tensioner. I'm sure there's a reason that needed to be buries way back in there but it's beyond my understanding...

2) That rear bolt on the turbo - holy cow! I got it out after dropping 2 10mm wrenches down into places I couldn't get to until after I had the turbo out. Thankfully I have *3* 10mm wrenches! Taking the bolt out was a challenge but I have no idea how I'm going to get it in. Seems I'll need much longer fingers with at least one more joint in them... again, there must be a trick to it but I couldn't figure it out. Is this why they pull the cab?

tia for any guidance!
-d
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,293 Posts
Yeah, that back bolt can be a pain. I used a 6 point socket, a universal and an extension. Got it right out. Putting in back in will just take some patience, and you will have to hug your turbo and thread it in blind.
I did the install without the topside creeper and had bruises that didn't heal for weeks. I was some sore. The hood latch always seemed to end up in an unfortunate spot, if you get the drift.
Take your oil dipstick out or you will be replacing it.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
thx NYC, I'll get that dipstick out of there 1st thing tomorrow.

No creeper? - you must be young! I guess that hood latch kept you from sliding... :eek:

Scratching my head here trying to figure out why my pics won't display - Is that a newb limit?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
When I did it I released the tension by unbolting the alternator after I disconnected the wires and held it while I leaned it forward and the belt came on. When time came to put it back on I bolted the alternator back up and made sure the belt was in the right spot on all the pullys and grabbed it on the passenger side and yanked up and put it on the alternator pully it's not as bad as it sounds it has quite a bit of play when you pull up on it.


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
20,293 Posts
To get that belt off, grab ahold of it below the alternator, and pull straight up. It will compress the tensioner to where the belt pops right off :thumb:

I wish I had a topside creeper for my install :crazy:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,293 Posts
I have a very short 1/2 inch extension that offsets the connector on the end for the socket 45°. That works great, fits in the hole in the tensioner and gives you the "swing room" you need. I never had any luck with lifting up on the belt....
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
20,293 Posts
I have a very short 1/2 inch extension that offsets the connector on the end for the socket 45°. That works great, fits in the hole in the tensioner and gives you the "swing room" you need. I never had any luck with lifting up on the belt....
I learned that from a tech that did the warranty work on my truck. It works great on my buddies 04, but it's a PITA on my truck. I think his tensioner is going south. It's the dealers problem now, he drove home last night with a 2011 F350 :cool:

If you get a chance, shoot a pic of that offset thing. I'm not sure I grasp the concept :dunce:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
692 Posts
When things get rough just remember... Your doing it right the first time so you don't have to do this again
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,966 Posts
There is a spring clip in the back of the tensioner that will fall into a slot that holds the tensioner back in the loose position. You pull on the belt below the alternator toward the pass fender until the tensioner locks. When you reinstall you again pull the belt to release the tensioner.

It is easier to explain than it is to do. It takes a lot of force to move the tensioner to the right position.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
There is a spring clip in the back of the tensioner that will fall into a slot that holds the tensioner back in the loose position. You pull on the belt below the alternator toward the pass fender until the tensioner locks. When you reinstall you again pull the belt to release the tensioner.

It is easier to explain than it is to do. It takes a lot of force to move the tensioner to the right position.
I'll definitely give that a try when re-installing - really good to know - thanks everyone! I was considering loosening the alternator bolts to release some tension but was afraid something ugly would happen. As it stands, after I spent what must have been an hour getting my 1/2" drive ratchet in there, I left it there so it would be ready to reverse the process - it was just too difficult to have to do it a 2nd time.

I have a very short 1/2 inch extension that offsets the connector on the end for the socket 45°
NYC - As 2006 said, it's hard to picture that tool - any chance someone has a pic of one? tried googling it and didn't come up with anything...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Day 2 - Didn't get as much time to work on the truck as hoped, but did pull the wiring harness out, the oil filter/fuel filter housing & fuel lines are out, the FICM out, along with the intake & EGR. It's ready to pull the oil cooler in the morning...


I'm using the pu bed as my storage area (has a hard cover if I get weather) and you can probably see that I'm bagging and numbering all the smaller bits/bolts as they come out to hopefully make the reverse process go easier. I have a bad case of CRS:


Question for today: I rcvd a snap-to-connector kit with my BPD kit - wondering if I need to install this? Dealer mentioned they installed the STC upgrade when they did the O rings 2 months ago. Is that a once it's done, it's done upgrade? or should I dig into the HPOP (is that where it's located?) and replace it (again)?

Also, for future reference, While I got one of the wiring harness' out, the other has some 'tentacles' that head down the front of the block on both sides and also heads over to each fender - looked to be a pia to completely remove. I unbolted a box (not sure it's name) on the right valve cover that had the bulk of the harness terminating in it. That gave me enough slack to pull the harness forward in front of the intake and out of the way. Is there a better way to do this?

Note 1: I was surprised at the loose bolts on the oil cooler - the 3 front bolts were 'finger tight'.

Note 2: pulling back the silicon tube/hose on the EGR I wasn't prepared for the coolant to run out - oops, oh well, there wasn't that much, maybe a cup or two...

tomorrow the oil cooler comes out and the various upgrades go in (like IPR screen) before re-assembly...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
20,293 Posts
Question for today: I rcvd a snap-to-connector kit with my BPD kit - wondering if I need to install this? Dealer mentioned they installed the STC upgrade when they did the O rings 2 months ago. Is that a once it's done, it's done upgrade? or should I dig into the HPOP (is that where it's located?) and replace it (again)?

Once it's done, it's done. Save it for a friend that may need it down the road :dunno:

Also, for future reference, While I got one of the wiring harness' out, the other has some 'tentacles' that head down the front of the block on both sides and also heads over to each fender - looked to be a pia to completely remove. I unbolted a box (not sure it's name) on the right valve cover that had the bulk of the harness terminating in it. That gave me enough slack to pull the harness forward in front of the intake and out of the way. Is there a better way to do this?

No, I hear that get the harness rerouted down there is a royal PITA, you're better off doing what you did. That box I think you're talking about is the GP relay

Note 1: I was surprised at the loose bolts on the oil cooler - the 3 front bolts were 'finger tight'.

Note 2: pulling back the silicon tube/hose on the EGR I wasn't prepared for the coolant to run out - oops, oh well, there wasn't that much, maybe a cup or two...

tomorrow the oil cooler comes out and the various upgrades go in (like IPR screen) before re-assembly...
My replies in red. You are making good progress, keep up the good, detailed work :thumb:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
719 Posts
I've been doing firewood over the weekend and didn't see the start of this... looks like you're making good progress Buck.

It brings back a lot of memories seeing the parts coming out and going into bags, hearing about the belt tensioner and the turbo. :doh:

I'm sure by the time my reply is up 2006 will have answered but...

IMO when it comes to wires they only really reach to one spot and the connector are different so it's hard to screw it up. Just watch for where they're routed and it's hard to mess up. The connections down the front are a PITA to reach so if you can get enough slack by loosening some bolts even better!

If the STC has been updated I don't see any reason to open up the cover to see, unless maybe you want more work to do? :dunno: :D

Keep up the good work! :woot:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
19,111 Posts
I LOVE the detailed work and the write up and asking questions along the way. Sounds like you are making great progress. Keep up the good work! :thumb:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Once it's done, it's done. Save it for a friend that may need it down the road
Thx 2006 - I'll save that STC!

brings back a lot of memories seeing the parts coming out and going into bags, hearing about the belt tensioner and the turbo. :doh:
Fishermedic! This is all your fault! :rofl: Stay warm my friend - no such thing as too much firewood!

Sounds like you are making great progress. Keep up the good work! :thumb:
thx Evil Eye!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,293 Posts
If you get a chance, shoot a pic of that offset thing. I'm not sure I grasp the concept :dunce:
Well, I would (and can at a later date), but my tools are in my buddies garage - 250 miles North of me in New Hampshire. Believe it or not, that is where I do most of the work on my truck. :tard:
Let me see if I can describe it better.
It is just a simple 2 inch long, 1/2 inch drive extension.
Where you connect the extension to the breaker bar (or ratchet) is rotationally 45° off of where you would put the socket.
If you go out and look at your typical extension, and look at the two ends of it (the square connectors), they typically will be in line with each other rotationally on the extension. One square lines up with the other. This one extension I found kicking around my toolbox has the two square drives off from each other rotationally.
Does this help?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Went through all my BPD parts last night to get familiar with them - really appears like some quality parts there, and they are serious about packaging them for shipment! Nicely done BPD!

Googling Ford PN's on the bags of parts I have here, I came across threads regarding the fuel pressure regulator spring - Is that something I should order/upgrade? blue spring or BB? Seems to be a common thing to do reading through posts, but I also read there can be issues with it too (too much fuel pressure in some cases?)

thx!
-d
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Well, I would (and can at a later date), but my tools are in my buddies garage - 250 miles North of me in New Hampshire. Believe it or not, that is where I do most of the work on my truck. :tard:
Let me see if I can describe it better.
It is just a simple 2 inch long, 1/2 inch drive extension.
Where you connect the extension to the breaker bar (or ratchet) is rotationally 45° off of where you would put the socket.
If you go out and look at your typical extension, and look at the two ends of it (the square connectors), they typically will be in line with each other rotationally on the extension. One square lines up with the other. This one extension I found kicking around my toolbox has the two square drives off from each other rotationally.
Does this help?
yup - paints a much better pic - thx! Is it sorta like this?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,293 Posts
It is a good thing to do, especially since the fuel filter housing is off the truck it is REAL easy to do. Don't use BB's or an aftermarket spring. You should also contemplate a fuel pressure gauge to watch the fuel pressure.
Doing the "BB" mod without a gauge is a wild stab in the dark. You will never know (until it is too late) if you have fuel pressure that is too high. The aftermarket springs also deliver dangerously high fuel pressures.
The Ford (or International) "blue" fuel regulator spring kit will give you right around 70-72 psi at idle when the spring is new. It will likely settle down to around 65psi at idle in a few weeks.
 
1 - 20 of 169 Posts
Top