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Hi. I recently switched from an Edge programmer with monitor to my TC programmer that I have now. With the Edge programmer, it would read 20 psi of boost when hitting it hard. Now that I am using the TC I can only get 15 psi. I am using the Edge plugged into the odb port to read the boost pressure for all readings. Why is my psi lower and how can I turn it up. I notice the wastegate has a threaded rod on it and I have read that it can be adjusted to increase up to 25 psi on the stock turbo. I have also read to remove the red hose or unhook the power for the wastegate. What should I do and does anyone have pictures showing my dumba$$ how to do it?

On a different note, with the TC programmer when driving at highway speeds, when I press the brake pedal in seems to unlock or lock my TC? Any ideas? It didn't do it with the Edge. My truck is all messed up.

Please help!:dunno:
 

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I don't have an answer for you on this one. I can tell you that, if I'm pushing my (virtually stock) 2000 F250 hard, I can get up to 25 psi. I've had my intercooler tube boots blow off several times at that pressure so I try not to get it up that high. I'm not incredibly diesel fluent so I can't offer much more than that. My point with this- at 15 psi, it seems like you might have other issues. Maybe you have a boot that worked its way loose or have holes somewhere in the system? Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
2000 F250, Automatic, 4" Banks Monster exhaust with power elbow, EBPV delete, AIH Delete, Pyro, boost and Trans gauges, DP tuner, 3.73 Limited Slip, LT275/75R18, Big A55 air filter, 5000 watt power inverter.
In that case, my truck is stock stock. But thanks for the help, I will try to see if I have a leaker.
 

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First of all generic tunes SUCK!!! Plain and simple. My guess is the problem isn't with your turbo/truck it is with the equipment you are using to monitor it. If you want accurate boost reading you won't get it from the OBD port on a 2001. Run a line to a real boost gauge from your Mapline or AIH location and then you will have accurate numbers. Stock is 15 to 17 , a decent performance tune should give 22-25, anything above 25 for extended periods is taking the life of the turbo and cutting it's time down.
 

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I don't have an answer for you on this one. I can tell you that, if I'm pushing my (virtually stock) 2000 F250 hard, I can get up to 25 psi. I've had my up pipe boots blow off several times at that pressure so I try not to get it up that high. I'm not incredibly diesel fluent so I can't offer much more than that. My point with this- at 15 psi, it seems like you might have other issues. Maybe you have a boot that worked its way loose or have holes somewhere in the system? Good luck!
I would love to see what an "Up-pipe boot" blown off looks like, must have been pushing some major exhaust pressures to break the crush washers on the metal up pipes. :hehe: just playing I know you meant intercooler pipes
 

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Discussion Starter #6
First of all generic tunes SUCK!!! Plain and simple. My guess is the problem isn't with your turbo/truck it is with the equipment you are using to monitor it. If you want accurate boost reading you won't get it from the OBD port on a 2001. Run a line to a real boost gauge from your Mapline or AIH location and then you will have accurate numbers. Stock is 15 to 17 , a decent performance tune should give 22-25, anything above 25 for extended periods is taking the life of the turbo and cutting it's time down.
I understand that I may not get an accurate reading from the ODB port, but it should still be the same no matter which programmer I am using right? Where do you suggest I run an actual boost gauge from? I was reading about the AIH yesterday, how guys took it out and plugged it with a Dodge drain plug and drilled it for a boost line. Is that the best place?

Thanks for the help.
 

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I understand that I may not get an accurate reading from the ODB port, but it should still be the same no matter which programmer I am using right? Where do you suggest I run an actual boost gauge from? I was reading about the AIH yesterday, how guys took it out and plugged it with a Dodge drain plug and drilled it for a boost line. Is that the best place?

Thanks for the help.
Yes, that way it is all reversable and you don't have to drill into your x pipe. You could do the dodge drain plug, or buy one from either riffraff or I think strictly sells one that is already pre-tapped ready to accept your 1/8 npt boost line adapter.
 

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I have never even heard of a tc programer?
 

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The AIH is there for a reason, so I prefer doing it the old school by Ting the map line. I have done a lot this was with zero issues. Both will operate the boost gauge correctly.
 

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The AIH is there for a reason, so I prefer doing it the old school by Ting the map line. I have done a lot this was with zero issues. Both will operate the boost gauge correctly.
yeah but who idles their truck for extended periods, with the ebrake on ... and all the other things that have to be right for the intake heater to even come one. There are more than a few trucks on here without them and no problems

here is the requirements:
Ambient temperature must be below 32°F
Engine oil temperature (EOT) must be below 131°F
Vehicle power must remain between 11.5 and 15.0 volts
Parking brake must be applied
The transmission must be in Park or Neutral
Glow plugs must be off
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Sorry, I meant TS chip. I have it right in my sig.

So what you guys are saying, if I don't have my parking brake set (which I never do) the intake heater doesn't even work? I am for sure getting rid of that thing.
 

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Sorry, I meant TS chip. I have it right in my sig.

So what you guys are saying, if I don't have my parking brake set (which I never do) the intake heater doesn't even work? I am for sure getting rid of that thing.
Everything in my previous post is per riffraff's site, pretty sure its valid information. Even on strictly diesel's site it says "Removal of the IAH does not negatively impact the operation of the engine and has NO effect on cold start-up situations."
 
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