Well I have a Beans custom chip which is one of the best tuners and I had to run a boost fooler, I got mine from Strictly Diesel. Its made nice,its a non-adjustable regulator type with a nice bracket to mount it over the map sensor.
thanks guys. i am running a DP tuner which isnt a piece of crap tuner by any means....great power, shifts, low egts, etc...its just when i feel like letting the hammer drop my turbo creates around 32 psi which sets the light off...
hey i had mine on one....i dont think i had the lowest rating that day....i was second to last. lol. funny thing is, my buddy has the same truck, pretty much the SAME mods, and he made more power than me...like 20 more hp and 50 ft-lb of torque. one of the things he has differently is that resistor in the map sensor....i my have to try that...right now i just have my map senser grounded out....thats how my other truck was....no check engine light....this truck the light turned on and has been on ever since...wierd.
Riffraff sell overboost corrector for about $60. I need one because mine will throw code from mass absolute pressure when I hit it hard and smoke it. While turbo build up to hit 23 psi and code will come on. The overboost from riffraff set it at 22 psi and the code will never come back on.
ok i may be still grasping this if so please correct me but the purpose of the map sensor is to tell the computer how much boost you have with that being said the only reason i can see why this is nessecary is so the computer can add more fuel to accompany the extra airflow so if you fool the map sensor without having a tuner you are just holding back the fuel. the one stated above that tells the computer that its at 22psi sounds better than the one i have that is only 19psi
as far as the tuners my honest opinion is that if your tuner uses a boost fooler in conjunction with its custom tune your not using a very important sensor in the equasion which means he or she is assuming that the amount of air that you have to mix with the fuel their puttingin will correspond i believe that if you really understand the tuning process you would have a progressive fuel curve that increases with boost levels and be able to remove the overboost code from the equasionor set it to a much higher level and ditch a boost fooler hopefully a tuner can chime in here and make sure this is all factual
You can get a resistor for about 10 cents at any electronics store and the overboost code gets set with anything over 15.5 lbs of positive vacuum. It took me about 10 minutes to install b/c of the soldering. I personally wouldn't mess with the stupid air tank regulator system. When you hit the max factory boost setting and that code gets set the pcm automatically defuels the truck and you stop making power.
big boost here, although I did not install the air bleed to cancel out the operation of the ebpv. it is just an air regulator that is preset to a particular pressure. so far I have seen about 27psi actual boost and the comp sees no more than about 20psi. pulls hard all the way.
the air bleed is for the wastegate to keep it from opening unless you have it unplugged also did you do any adjustments because i have the same bigg boost but my coMuter will barely read 19 psi and who here is running custom tunes with a boost fooler and who did your tuning i am grasping to understand why its needed maybe the tuner can explain
The boost fooler is needed to keep the check engine light from coming on due to the map sensor seeing greater than 24lbs of boost.
Some tuners can turn off this to keep the check engine light from coming on.
Some requires a boost fooler because there software does not turn off the light.
Also some see defueling (cutting back of fuel based on boost) because the stock map in the computer has a table that cuts back on how long the injector is open to limit boost based on the boost the map sensor reads (most tuners should have this table corrected weather or not the cel comes on)
ok so if you have a good custom tune you should not need one
i also cannot imagine properly understanding how much fuel to apply to a vehicle reliably without the map telling you how much air is available to use in the combustion process especially at high boost levels
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