Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum banner

1 - 20 of 36 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So last winter replaced cracked radiator every thing good all winter. Over the summer trans got stuck in 4th gear replaced with a remanufactured trans. Un related but truck sat for 3 months till I found and got money and had time to swap. Got it done 500 miles the front seal from the water pump blew and poured out all my antifreeze so replaced the pump and all the lines and thermostat. Could not get heat after that so I'm adding 1 gall of antifreeze a week driving only about 100 miles cant find the leak then pass side batterie covered wit antifreeze noticed the resivior was crappy and looked cracked so replaced that now leaking from drivers side but cant find where. It got hot but not over heated I pop hood so see fluid level and where the radiator tank mats to the aluminum was leaking at the seam so replaced the radiator again. So new everything under 400 miles. I can start the truck let it run for 15 mins and barely off cold drive it for 30 min to work it get to the middle of the gauge but no heat unless I get on it and I have heat for like 5 min then cold air.i can be driving for 2 hr no heat un less I get one it. After a week of doing the rad. I added like 1gal of fluid thing just working the air bubble out but still nothing. If I let it get hot the resivior tank all most emptys and I went to open it while running to add and so much pressure in the tank and the fluid goes to the full line and I put the cap on and it sucks back down get in the truck heat for like 5 min then cold again. So lost.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Sorry early 99 f350 six speed 651k miles truck is stock runs fine no loss of power no smoke. And it act like it was hydro locked after sitting for 11 hrs 3 days ago I bumped it twice and it started and just normal cold start smoke
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Filled the resivior up again still cant find a leak let it run 10 min drove it to work ran for 40 min no heat no leaks. Started it in the morning about 10 degrees out sat for 1 min and dumping antifreeze out the brand new dealer cap
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Just to make sure I'm understanding you correctly, so there's no more visible coolant leaking anywhere after you replaced everything you knew was leaking but coolant level is still consistently dropping, and still no heat? Are you smelling coolant inside the cab at all? Even when you're not trying to run the heat?

Going on what you've said so far, and since it's a coolant-loss issue, the first thing I would do is go somewhere like AutoZone, NAPA, or somewhere that does "loan-a-tool" and get a pressure tester. OR, you can even buy a fairly cheap one for about $30-$40 online. It's basically just a handheld air pump with a gauge and a hose that attaches to a special radiator cap adapter fitted for your truck like this one.

You just screw the cap on, connect the hose, and pump it up to about 15 or 16 psi and 99.999999% of the time, that will cause coolant to be pushed out of whatever hole or crack there is in the system. IF there is one.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
From what I am understanding, It sounds like to me that you are consuming coolant and or expelling it out of the cap. You stated that the brand new dealer degas bottle cap was pushing coolant out of it. That there indicates that the cooling system is overpressurizing. You need to find an exhaust sniffer to see if you have exhaust in your coolant. I would suspect you do, I.E. head gasket, cracked head, cupseal crack (usually you'll smell fuel in your coolant). But anyway, the exhaust displaces the coolant and collects in the heater core, or lowers the level so much that there isn't enough coolant to adequately circulate through the core to produce heat. You also stated that you thought that maybe it hydro-locked once. That is almost a smoking gun for coolant in the combustion chamber, As when its running combustion pressures are way greater than coolant pressures so the gasses get pushed into the cooling system, but when the trucks off the coolant pressures are greater then atmospheric pressures and then can push back into the combustion chambers and pool, causing a hydro lock situation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the info will get pressure tester and exhaust leak tester today. And an injector cup would definitely pass fuel? Could it also just let exhaust pass if it's a small crack
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
A cracked cup will do some weird stuff but typically push fuel into coolant, because fuel pressure is greater than coolant pressure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Update got the block tester and radiator leak down test yesterday befor work. Filled fluid up befor left purged out cap drove it home in the morning because it said to test when engine is worn did the block test when I got home the test fluid was a 25 percent frozen but could get fluid out and did the test and it did pass. That being said waited till truck was cooled down and pressured the coolent system and it leaked 1psi in 1hr 30min. Went to redo block test with room temp test fluid. Went to start the truck hydrolocked...... thinking its cups should I get dealer cups or rift raft has a set also. Or does it still not point to cups
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
When I opened the oil fill cap when the truck was warm it was puffing smoke not sure if it was because it was 10 degrees out side or not cant get video to load
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,287 Posts
Upload the vid to youtube and post the link here

Have you replaced the thermostat?
 

·
Mr. Crossthread
Joined
·
4,461 Posts
Run a gauge T'd into the coolant line on the drivers side of the bottle, drive it hard and then check the gauge. This sounds like a typical head/gasket issue. Especially at your mileage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Pulled injectors found oil/coolant getting to turbo thru the valve cover vent tube and the oil cooler and turbo pedastol leaking. Joy!!!! I have done heads on a 302 and 351c, is this going to be that much harder. I will not pulling the cab if I do, not sure the neighbors would like that. I have read a bunch of forms so I know it can be done. I feel like theirs a good chance of having a bad head if so will be retiring this 651k mile engine and just buying a long block.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
So I'm pretty sure where I'm at is. For the pressurization of engine to get the oil Through the valve cover vent into the turbo would be valve seal or piston ring and for my coolant pressurization problem would be head gasket or cracked head. Right
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,287 Posts
You have one cylinder "puffing" in your vid, and more than enough vapor coming from the filler neck

moisture in the oil will cause excess vapor as will a worn engine -- short runs is another cause, the engine never gets fully heated

7.3 is not prone to head gasket failure, but over heating(coolant loss) will cause head cracks

Running the engine with coolant in the oil will damage the babbit layer on the bearings

Your options are to continue or tear into the engine and fix it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
I'm going to start taking heads off tomorrow I have the covers and Injectors out today. Reading thru things now for head up on things
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,287 Posts
Just as well figure on pulling the engine so you can fix the rings issue -- no need to half *** it
 
1 - 20 of 36 Posts
Top