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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got black smoke on acceleration. It just started a week or so ago. The wife was pulling horses over very high mountain passes recently with no issues. Today she was pullng slowly up and down a few thousand foot canyon and through town and the thing started shuttering a little bit, too. No CEL, no obvious boost leaks. VGT has been sticking a little as the low end lag has been terrible for a long while, but I figured I don't need to spin the tires anyway so I ignored it. (Never saw below 15 or above 85 except momentarily after a hard acceleration) but I had no smoke after spool up - until now. Now I've got black smoke under ALL acceleration, and occasionally at idle, too.
I'm waiting for things to cool a bit before I start pulling off boots to look for leaks but was wondering what symptoms a bad turbo has, or injectors? I have a scanner so I can check for any stored codes, too.
Also don't know if this is relevant or not, but I have TERRIBLE smelling exhaust. I pulled off the CAT two summers ago to try and lower egt's. It didn't work AND the exhaust smelled terrible, so I put it back on. It was fine for awhile but for the last several months the exhaust smell is back and it is nasty. Doesn't smell like diesel exhaust at all but rather some horrible chemical stink.
 

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A bad CAT might have a smell of Rotten Eggs. Our trucks don't have oxygen sensors so they can't tell you if the CAT is bad or not.

Other than that, the smells I know that can come from the exhaust are burnt oil, diesel, or coolant.

Black smoke may be a sign of a stuck turbo, so it could be a turbo pull cleaning. I did not have black smoke when my turbo stuck, but I did get a P0299 Turbo Underboost code. You did see it briefly hit 15 or 85. I was just towing 12k yesterday and even going up a extended 6% grade with 12k LBS, I my high was only in the low 70s. Don't know what my low was.

The chemical smelling exhaust I'm puzzled. Could be two different issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I replaced the unison ring on my turbo about 1.5 years ago. Cleaned everything up as per Diesel Tech Ron and put it back together. But I'm near 300k miles and am hoping it 's not the worst! I'm not opposed to a new/rebuilt turbo but don't want to just start hanging parts worth hundreds of dollars....
 

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For around $75 or less you can get yourself a turbo pressure tester off a site like Diesesite or KC Turbos. You can also go to Home Depot and get a 4" pipe cap and Unison ring add a worm clamp and air chuck and have a turbo pressure tester for a little less of a price.

You may be able to do a contribution test, but that would be best done at a shop with IDS to see if the injectors are in balance. AutoEnginuity does a test also, but not quite as good.

Are you tuned? This was my first time towing tuned and I had some black smoke when giving the truck a lot of acceleration pedal from a standstill.

15 or 85 can be things other that the turbo sticking. I can't remember what they could be though.

I've been down the road of throwing the wrong parts at the truck. I don't want to do that again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I've got a cylinder 1 and 4 contribution code........
This issue didn't start until it got hot out. Ran great all winter with below zero temps and now that we're in the high 80's/low 90's I've got funny issues.
 

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Those codes really point towards injectors. A contribution test would help you be sure about that.

If those are bad, those are on opposite banks, so now it comes down to replace just the bad ones, or replace all the old 300 k injectors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Where did you find those? Have a link?
 

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I found them for about $189 each after core, but that was many months ago off Stricly Diesel’s website. I had my injectors changed there a few weeks ago and they charged me more than that for each injector.

Also recommend doing a little more troubleshooting even with the two contribution codes to be sure those injectors are bad. If you have a decent diesel shop nearby with IDS, could be worth spending $150 for an accurate diagnosis before sinking into $1k for parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Would the enginuity program that BPD sells work? I wouldn't mind forking over some $$ if it'll save me some down the road.
 

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Ford IDS is the only tool that I am aware of that can do an uncompensated injector test
ForScan will do a cylinder cut off test, but you would need to watch RPM, Fuel Rate, Load, and listen to the sound -- looking for subtle differences in the cylinders
I have not had the 400 to drop to get AE for testing it's functions
 

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AutoEnginuity can do a contribution test, but not uncompensated Like IDS. So. AE will not pick up all injector problems.

If BPD sells AE with the Ford Bundle that’s the one I’m talking about. If you call BPD prior to buying, they know their products real well and can answer questions.

I’ve not yet had enough problems to justify me buying AE. For now, a monitor does me just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I have no access to anyone with Ford scan tools. I have a basic scan tool but nothing with Ford software. What can I do at home to further pinpoint the issue? The thing runs fine other than a subtle rough chug, but the smoke is now like a mosquito fogger both cold and at operating temps. I'm ready and in need to start work. It's my daily driver and the only rig that will pull my gooseneck trailer!
 

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If you get codes every time, you can swap injectors to see if the code follows. That course has its own risks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
OK, here's what's new... I pulled the starter wire from the passenger fender well and I got a good sounding crank - no irregular sounds except a regular clunk clunk clunk. I waited a few seconds and tried again and it was still there but less pronounced. I started the truck and drove it down the road to check mail (still smoking like crazy and slight rough idle) and back again. Pulled the starter wire again and the sound it still there. What I have gotten myself into now?
All I am getting is a p0284 cylinder #8 contribution code. Here's a link to the video. I hope you can hear it.
 

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I don’t hear the sound you mention. I’m sure it’s there, but I don’t hear it.

Do you think the smoke smells like diesel? Does it have a blue, black or white color.

Is there any coolant or oil missing?

If it is a fuel injector and it is hung open, worst case could melt a piston.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The smoke smells like diesel. It's a little white at first, as you would expect a cold diesel to be, but it turns to black quickly as it's 90* today and the motor warms up very quickly. No coolant or oil missing. Motor oil still smells like oil and it's not gaining any. Would a hung open injector make the sound when cranking?
Anyone got a used injector I can try?
 

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I can hear the sound you describe -- have you checked the torque converter bolts?

Lil jealous you your starter -- mine turns over some slower

The injectors would not make any noise, cranking like that

Here are links to the tools -- cheap route is the BAFX adapter
Do an injector click test and compare the sound of each injector
with your miles , it could be time to replace the injectors
all the fuel that has been in the tank has went thru the little holes in the injector tips
the little holes wear out and do not spray as good as when new -- so you get smoking

you do not need the license for troubleshooting

 
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