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Thanks everyone for the info. Jus't wanted to make sure since I have never had a diesel with all these emission systems on it. On my 99 7.3 it doesn't start looking dirty till it's almost time to change at 5K. Really like this 6.7 so far. Jus't hope it gives me the service my 7.3 has done, it has 445K on it now and still running strong.
One thing you really want to do religiously is to drain the water out of the fuel water separator every 30 days (it's close to the middle of the trucks underbelly), fuel filters (there are 2) are changed every 22,500 miles, DEF is cheaper at the truck stops than it is at Walmart, it's usually $15 for a 2.5 gallon bottle or $2.79 a gallon at the pump. You don't have to use the Ford branded DEF, and the only way Ford can mandate you use their brand for warranty purposes is if they give it to you free of charge (which we all know will never happen).

If you want to keep warranty coverage on the power train don't do any modifications other than a cold air kit, if you add a tuner and flash the ECM, do an EGR delete or anything else that requires modifications to the power train before the warranty is up, will completely void the power train warranty. Even if you reload the factory tune, the dealer will know that a non factory tune was installed, because there's a code flag that cannot be removed in the ECM (flashing it and starting from scratch will not remove it).
 

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I know amzoil makes a regular filer to spin on also, I use a normal motorcraft filer and the bypass filter, it was black for a couple of changes but then got to the point of looking almost new
 

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Is it possible to run one of these Amsoil 2micron filters instead of the regular oil filter on the engine ?
No, as you will starve the motor of oil due to the low flow thru the filter.


I know amzoil makes a regular filer to spin on also, I use a normal motorcraft filer and the bypass filter, it was black for a couple of changes but then got to the point of looking almost new

Does the Motorcraft spin on filter fit the Amzoil dual filter setup?? Any pics of your setup??
 

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Mine is a single filter mounts under the passenger side door on the frame a spin on body goes on your normal filter mount with your normal filter spins on to that. A hose runs from the spin on body to the bypass filter and from there back up to your oil fill with a new cap that allows the oil to recirculate. I will take a picture for you a later this afternoon
 

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Mine is a single filter mounts under the passenger side door on the frame a spin on body goes on your normal filter mount with your normal filter spins on to that. A hose runs from the spin on body to the bypass filter and from there back up to your oil fill with a new cap that allows the oil to recirculate. I will take a picture for you a later this afternoon
It’s dirty been crappy weather 😂
 

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if you want to get down to 2 microns you'll have to buy the dual remote bypass oil filter system.

Not sure I understand what a "bypass" filter does. What is it that you're bypassing? :confused:
 

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Not sure I understand what a "bypass" filter does. What is it that you're bypassing? :confused:
The filter system I'm talking about is mounted away from the engine, the vehicle frame is usually where it's mounted. It has an adapter that connects to where the oil filter is installed on the engine, 2 hoses are connected to the adapter (oil in and oil out), those hoses are connected to the remote filter housing, two oil filters are mounted on the remote filter housing, the first filter is a full flow filter (95% of the oil runs through it) and the second filter is a bypass filter because only 5% of the oil goes through it and it is a 2 micron filter.

The system will add an additional 4 Qts of oil capacity to the system, and the filters are changed in a different way than you might be used to, the full flow filter is changed after 10-20,000 miles have been driven and the bypass and full flow filters are changed after another 20-40,000 miles has been driven. So your engine is effectively getting an oil change about every 45 minutes that the engine is running at an RPM equivalent to driving down the road @ 45 mph. You can extend or shorten this interval if you take a sample of the oil and send it off to be analyzed, when you get the report back (usually a few days) it will tell you if the oil is good to continue using or that it needs to be changed. I have this system on my truck and it now holds a full 4 gallons of oil.

One of the biggest known issues with the new power strokes is fuel dilution, so, if you're mainly driving city miles you will need to change the oil more frequently because of the amount of fuel that will be in the oil, so the recommended oil change intervals from Ford should be cut in half in order to protect the internal engine components from excessive wear which could lead to engine failure.

I hope that this clears up the confusion.
 
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