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WMO has a lot of ash in it, therefore significant amounts of ash will exit an engine burning it regardless of how well the engine is running, and/or how well the fuel is burned. Therefore gray deposits in the exhaust pipe of any diesel engine that is running WMO is normal.
 

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hey guys, new at the forum scene and still fairly new at burning oil.
wanted to get psd and burn wmo but wanted to do some research first. got a lot of info
here and thanks. im mostly here to learn right now and dont have alot of info to offer
yet but so far my experience seems to hang on turbo or non turbo. have run 50% in 2 non turbos and after about 20 30 gallon starts down hill, smoking loss of power and hard starting, ether :( run straight diesel for gallon or two and fine again. turbo= no problems at all. except while off roading was lugging for long period of time and seemed like one cylinder quit fireing. picked up rpms for minute and fine again. figured non turbo equals poor fuel air ratio and fuel wasnt burning efficiently. same with a little smoke at idle, turbo not contributing much. but thats all filtering without a cf which u guys have me absolutely convinced in getting. anywho, thanks and keep posting
 

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Welcome, new oil burner, most of the people I know of who claim they are burning WMO without trouble happen to have a turbo, and they CF their WMO, and they blend it with gasoline at least at 15%, or diesel at 50%. So, if you are going to try that, then I think that formula is more likely to work. However, I do not know from personal experience, because my engine is non-turbo, and cokes on WMO.

I think, if a turbo really does help to burn WMO, then sure, better fuel-air mix means better combustion, is part of it. However, I suspect that just positive air pressure on the intake manifold may have a mechanical effect of blowing the ash/coke out of the cylinders.

I did find that the more I diluted the WMO the longer I could run it in my engine before coking. My last experiment was with WMO at only 20%, and it took 3 months of daily driving 60 miles before coking became evident.

The military paid for research on burning WMO on two diesel engine designs, nether or which had a turbo, and they only filtered it down to 20-microns, with no CF. The study found that WMO blended at as low as 7% with JP-8 at 93% there was significant coking. I believe if both engines had turbos, and they filtered the WMO down to 1-micron, then CFed it, then the results would have been dramatically different.
 

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So at the end of the day. Turbocharged engines seem to burn wmo blends better than non Turbo engines. On the other hand older fuel system design may tolerate dirt better. I doubt that better scavenging occurs because of the turbo that is more a function of Cam overlap and egr flow. Egg flow is exactly the opposite of good cylinder scavenging. Best idea to be successful at this upgrade that old non turbo with some kind of kit or just get a newer truck.
 

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So at the end of the day. Turbocharged engines seem to burn wmo blends better than non Turbo engines.
The reports seem to point this way
On the other hand older fuel system design may tolerate dirt better.
The reports do not seem to support this. It seems like newer engine designs (ie. common rail DI diesel engines) are better at burning fuel, and thus more tolerant of marginal fuels.
 

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....I suspect that just positive air pressure on the intake manifold may have a mechanical effect of blowing the ash/coke out of the cylinders.
So a turbo acts like a fan and blows the ash/coke out of the cylinders? :doh:


It seems like newer engine designs (ie. common rail DI diesel engines) are better at burning fuel, and thus more tolerant of marginal fuels.
:doh: :doh:
 

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the most modern fuel systems utilize very high pressure which produces really tiny droplet size, but is incredibly intolerant of any kind of contamination. just look at what happens to the 6.7 if you send a bit of high moisture fuel through it. just about total engine destruction. +$15,000 in damages.
think about a woodstove for a bit, if you burn really good dry hardwood you can close the damper right down, without it dying off, and without a whole lot of creosote buidup in the chiminey. on the other hand burn some really crappy green wet poplar. you can barely get it to burn and the chiminey is gunked up in no time at all.
WMO is that green wood.(which will burn ok if the chiminey draft and the airvent are wide open.) it will work better the greater amount of time the engine is worked hard.
you can use a rock to beat on something but usually a hammer is a much better choice. In the same way if the truck is mostly a commuter vehicle or other light use, and IDI, WMO is that rock hammer. just not really the best fuel choice for the application. unless you really make it big, the time you spend unclogging and replacing injectors will probably be worth more than the fuel savings.
how do you feel the WMO blend compares for power before the injectors coke up?
 

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to be honest with my turbo diesel @ 50% The only difference I notice is the engine runs quieter. doesnt smoke loose power or coke up. except for the one time I mentioned above and was easily corrected and was trailing in the woods so couldnt run it hard. just minute at above idle and back to normal. ive left is to idle for hour while useing come along to get another truck out and no problem at all. but I must admit ive a vw tdi also, so far im too chicken to try it in it. easier to risk off road toy than my daily driver. thogh when i get a cf to clean the oil, i will try. ill let you know how it goes
 

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Not to try to derail this thread anymore than it already has, BUT Jeff if you don't actually own a PSD with a HUEI system how can you come here and state what works and what doesn't. I can tell you that personally I have 0, nada, zilch, no experience with WVO or WMO. That said I know how the HUEI system works on these engines and I also know how sensitive they are to any changes in fuel quality and type and I can assure you that if you tried running a blend of cotton seed oil mixed with gasoline it would DESTROY these injectors and engines.

For the record I have nothing against blending or alternative fuels, BUT I wouldn't go spouting off blending info in a make/model/engine type specific forum unless it was for the same make/model/engine type that your testing these blends with. Also one more thing to think about is an older diesel whether it's naturally aspirated or not run on almost ANYTHING that will BURN and is a LIQUID. These new diesels are a completely different animal and should be treated as such. This information on a forum specific to PSD can be really BAD info to a new "blender or oil burner" as the info you have is specific to the engine your running it in.

Mike is simply trying to keep some new diesel owner from coming on here and seeing you say "mix gasoline and cotton seed oil and you got diesel fuel for way cheaper than regular diesel and it's just as good" and thinking to themselves "well hell that don't sound to bad at all I think I'll give it a go." Then ends up destroying a $10,000 engine in their previously proper running 6.0l or 7.3l PSD.

If you want to be successful with your discussions here you should consider getting a PSD and running your blends in them for a significant amount of time and get solid results then post them here. I for one would be interested in results specific to a 6.0 that has been running on WVO or blends of WMO successfully without destroying their injection system or motor.
 

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Not to try to derail this thread anymore than it already has, BUT Jeff if you don't actually own a PSD with a HUEI system...
Tuscany, you are just adding to the derailment. There are many diesel forums. Are you suggesting that if I wanted to help gasoline-waste oil blenders to learn how to properly blend gasoline with with waste oil for their engine I should buy one of each diesel engine ever sold? Well, if the early proponents of biodiesel had to do that, then no one here would be burning biodiesel.
 

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Well ya know this particular forum is called, Powerstroke.org. it wouldn't be totally out of place to expect someone giving advice to be familiar with the success or failure of that type of fuel in powerstroke engines. back when most diesels used low injection pressure piston pumps there was a lot of basic similarities. since then we have progressed from the chevy 6.2/ford 6.9 with roosamaster distribution pumps,(2500 psi aprox), to HEUI systems(mid 20,000 psi), to common rail systems with totally stupid pressure and purity standards. just check out the filter specs on the new engines v.s. that old 6.2 dinosaur. not to say that previous experience has no place, because it does, but it has to be built on and added to. in the same way as we wouldn't want to be treated for a serious illness by a doctor trained in 1850 who never had further training, we have to understand how the newer engines may be different and may respond differently. ultimately i think if its clean enough, and in the right viscosity range, a WMO blend "should" burn ok in a heui engine, but until I personally do it or know someone who does I cannot say that without a doubt there will be no issues. can any issues be overcome?, most likely, if the issues are properly and fully analyzed to understand what is really happening. there are some basic truths to increasing hp on an engine, but it would be foolish to suggest that since X timing,carb setting worked great on a 65 mustang that the exact same settings would be perfect(without testing)for a new eco-boost engine.
 

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If you mix WMO only in with your D2 then what you are doing is thickening your D2. The reason why people are adding Gasoline in is because gas is "thinner" then D2. In order to get a WMO mix the same as D2 you need to add something thinner then D2 or heat the blend before injection ie... 2 tank conversion. Also it has been reported that gas will help settle out the crap in WMO quicker.
What an irony, with simone0414 recommending blending gasoline with waste oil, when he has flamed me over the practice for years now.
 

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Synthetic oils do burn they are not designed to not burn they do have a higher flash point by about 100°f . When mixed with regular oil it helps lower the flash point and when mixed with gas or diesel it lowers even further. So quit spreading misinformation. Research before you post untrue claims.
 

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Synthetic oils do burn they are not designed to not burn they do have a higher flash point by about 100°f . When mixed with regular oil it helps lower the flash point and when mixed with gas or diesel it lowers even further. So quit spreading misinformation. Research before you post untrue claims.
@Wasteoil furnace guy
Did you join here to start an argument in a 10 year old thread?
Must be a slow day at the office.
 
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