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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello everyone. I've been on here for some time now, but never been very active until lately. But I decided that I'd go ahead and throw this up here if anyone wants to follow along.

A little background, I bought my truck from my bother and sister in law last year with 107,xxx miles on it. I thought it was pretty well maintained, but I guess not. We'll get to that.

She's a 2006 F250 Lariat, Crew Cab, Short Bed, 6.0 PS, 4wd, Black exterior, Grey interior.

First week I had it, I had to deal with a hard starting issue. Turned into a $1500 service. Oil change, fuel filters, turbo inlet and outlet tubes, and more. Got that all done and back, and then had a hard cold start issue. Found out I had a low pressure build up on the injectors (oil pressure). New stand pipes and dummy plugs. Also found out the batteries were dying on me. So I bought 2 XS Power D6500's. SO before I even got through the first month, I was in over $2500. Thanks family! But I did my research I knew and know the trouble areas and night mares and I'm learning to relax on it a little bit. Lots still to do to make her great, but she's running fantastic right now.

Things I've done to it:
Turbo inlet and outlet tube replacements
Stand Pipes
Dummy Plugs
2 XS Power D6500's
370 Amp Singer High Output Alternator
Big 3 with 1/0ga (when audio is done, this will be swapped out to 2/0ga)
6" Fabtech Lift Kit
Fox 2.0 Performance Series Reservoir Shocks
Firestone Ride Rite Air Bags
20 x 10 Fuel Maverick Black wheels with Machined outlines
37 x 12.5 x 20 Nitto Trail Grappler Tires
Pro Comp Dual Steering Stabilizer Bracket
2 Fox 2.0 Factory Series Stabilizer Shocks
AFE Momentum HD Stage 2 Cold Air Intake
MagnaFlow Dual Black Tip 5" Exhaust, put the Magnaflow Muffler on (no cat)
SCT Performance iTSX For Android Tuner (works as a flash and is controlled by my tablet)
Custom Tunes
Bed Shell (removed for now)
Blue Spring Upgrade
New Brakes
New Carrier Bearing
New Drive Shaft U-Joints
New PMF Suspension Drag Link
New Moog Heavy Duty Drag Link End to Tie Rod End
New Moog Heavy Duty Drag Link End to Pitman Arm
New Moog Tie Rod Ends
New PMF Suspension Track Bar
New Motorcraft Track Bar Ball Joint
New PMF Suspension 6" Lift Blocks with Air Bag Perch
New Degas Bottle - Coolant Reservoir

I have some other things I'm going to be doing, like audio for sure. The current plan is at the end of Post #58 on page 2.

Hopefully some can enjoy it all, and maybe learn from some of it.

For some of you who are on Facebook, you're welcome to follow my Facebook page on this build and some other stuff, testing, ideas, etc. at S99Designs.

Thanks!
Scott aka Scooter99
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Damn it was a busy weekend. Started back at baseball yesterday and had a double header. I ended up crashing early last night. I'll make it a must do for tonight.

Thanks on the wheels, I went through about 4 different options before settling on these. Well not settling, this was my first choice, but I looked at a couple of others and came back to these in the end. I love em! I see other trucks with them, and almost no matter what I've seen them on, I've liked them. So I'm happy.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well I was going to sit down and do some pictures tonight, but unfortunately all of them are on Facebook, and so I've been doing nothing but downloading the one's that were not on my computer, to my computer so I can upload them on Photosuckit. So I tired tonight but it's getting late. I've got some uploaded, and a big file that will upload overnight. I'll get some up during the day tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok well let's get some pictures up.

This is Black Beauty in the driveway at my Sister-in-laws house when we picked it up. She sat at about 108k miles when we bought it. It's not perfect. Has some dings and scratches here and there, but it's been well used and well loved.


It didn't take long to decide it needed a shell so I went on the hunt for a black one. I really didn't want to get one and then have to turn around a paint it. I started looking at new but just about had a heart attack when I saw the price tags, so I decided craigslist is where I'd head. I found this beauty for a decent price. Again, not perfect, but it's black and in decent shape for sure. IT would for sure handle my needs.


Next we decided to go on vacation to Hawaii. I'd been putting together my list for what I wanted to do to her. Lift, exhaust, CAI, Wheels and Tires, etc. Well my brother had a buddy of his trying to start up a new company dealing with turning out trucks. I've always been hesitant to let anyone touch my trucks because I've had very bad luck with mechanics and shops being honest, or just having the same attention to detail that I've always had. Problem is, I don't always have the time to deal with everything. Doing all of these things was going to take a very big chunk of time for me to do them on my own. So I said ok, and he cut me a decent deal on it all, and was supposed to install it while I was gone. BIG EFFING MISTAKE AND I'LL NEVER DO IT AGAIN!! But, I won't go into what's wrong, I'll just fix it as I go along and you guys will see as it happens, if I decide to address it publicly.

Anyway, this is how it was when I left.


And how she was when I returned, well 3 days after I returned. That was part of the problem. It was supposed to be waiting for me. Whatever, it's done. 6" Fabtech Basic Lift, Fox 2.0 resi shocks, Pro Comp dual steering stabilizers with Fox 2.0 stabilizer shocks, Fabtech Traction bars, Fuel Maverick 20 x 10 wheels with Nitto 37 x 12.5 Grappler tires wrapped around them.


AFE HD Momentum Stage 2 CAI


Magnaflow 5" dual exhaust with Black Tips




He tried to sell me on some other stuff, programmer, edge stuff, and after all that had already happened I was like, no I'm good. So I decided to get my own stuff.

I picked up an SCT iTSX for Android with some basic tunes. I also had a Samsung Galaxy Note 8.0 laying around so I figured I could use that for it.


Didn't really like how this hangs down, so I may see if I can move the port somewhere a little more out of the way. I've never hit it, but I'm concerned I may. But that'll be at a later date.


More coming.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So not too long before I got the lift done, we purchased a new trailer. 32' travel trailer, and got it on a great deal. Worked very well for our needs and our pocket book. But, it was a little much for the F250. Squats in the rear quite a bit.


So, I decided I'd get some bags to help it along. Of course now it was lifted so I thought I'd need the spacers as well. Turns out I didn't. But I was able to get the bags on.




After bags.


One of the things I quickly saw that I didn't like while I was trying to get the bags on, was the stacked blocks! That was not going to work for me. I don't like the stacked blocks, I don't feel safe with them back there like that. So, I got on the computer and ordered up some PMF Blocks. These are some beefy SOB's!!! These also have the air bag perches welded on them. So I'll have to figure out how to get that transferred over because this perch is way wider than the stock block bump stop wing.












Unfortunately these haven't been installed yet. Those are going to probably go on this weekend. I'm getting a clunk in the back when I go over bumps, on the passenger side, so I can tell there is movement in the set up back there already.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So now that most everything else has been semi addressed, it was time to address the power. Seemed to me like the old batteries were struggling to start this beast. So it was time to get new ones. While I was at it, might as well address the alternator too.

So I picked up a pair of XS Power D6500 batteries, and a Singer 370A alternator. 370Amps!!?? Why so much you ask? Well as you'll find out later on, I do alot of audio, and I have big plans for this beast. One of the reasons I bought the shell too. But we'll get to that later.

Pics of the install.

Singer does it right. He knows his stuff, and he's a great guy. I would recommend him to anyone. I will have nothing else in my vehicles!


He made up a pig tail for me for the connection. Plug and play! f you notice in the first pics, he also gave me a little bit of instruction on it as well. Plus some swag, lol.


And I had him put some color on it too. Love the way it turned out.






I used to have a civic with a Singer alt in it. When I bought this one, I sent the other one back to him to have it checked out so I was sure it was perfect so I could sell it as such. He swapped out my Orange pulley cover onto this new one for me.


I had put the XS Power batteries in before I was able to install the alt. This was what they were resting at with the stock alt installed. This is resting not running.


This was with the truck running.


So let's get on with the install.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Some of you know, but let's go through it anyway.

Down below the tensioner, there's a "Kickstand". In this picture, it's next to the middle wheel part, it's actually the tensioner base, and below that is the "kickstand". You can, in some cases, pull the belt up with your hands, and then somehow, I used a long screw driver, flip that kickstand up and it will hold the tensioner in the up position loosening the belt for removal.


Then I used a bungee cord, because I wasn't removing the belt, I'm just getting it out of the way. I hooked one end to the hood, and then the other end you see there and it just held the belt up and out of the way for me.


First pull the plug.




Use a 10mm socket.


Pull the power cable.


And from the battery too. Probably should do this first. I can't recall if i did or not, but that's the safer move.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Next using a 13mm socket, pull the alt.


I did this by hand, you can use an air wrench if you want, but it was easy enough by hand.


Then compare them. Obviously the new alt has a smaller pulley, and after driving this a while I know I need a smaller belt. It screeches at me when I stop it and if I jump on it to pass someone or something I can hear scream at me. So this will be done soon.




Get new new one put in and bolt it down.


Put the power cable back on and plug in the pig tail and plug it into the alternator.


Zip ties for a little bit of wire management. This is temporary. I'll clean these up later.




Then turn it on and see what happens. Check it with a good dmm.




And this was at the alternator, so I'm thinking these cables need to be changed out.


 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
So I got some 1/0ga cable from Sky High Car Audio to install and swap out the old cable. This will help me later on too when i upgrade the audio.




Then started removing cables.




And installing the new. I left the old OEM cable on there for now. I'll probably remove it later. I just didn't want to have to hunt down how it was routed at that time.






I never did do another check on it to see where it's at now. I'll be adding more later anyway.

I also went through some testing with the OEM alt to see how I could get a second alt in there without the bracketrey and all that. I've had a hard time finding everything for a decent price when I've had the money. So we'll see. NOt something that is happening for a while anyway.


This does fit just fine, and the hood closes. I would just need some sort of bracket or brace for the other side.


And it lines up perfectly.


Anyway, we'll see what happens later down the road.



So that's it for now, back to work for me. I have much much more to post up, just have to find time to do it.
 

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Superb write up. Thats a good looking color also! :thumb:
 
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Discussion Starter #14
Ok so I obviously didn't get back on adding pics. Life has been pretty busy. I have done a few things though so we'll catch up now.

The latest project was getting the PMF Lift Blocks in the rear.

***Disclaimer*** I did not do this in the safest fashion. I do not advise doing things the way I do them always. I would always say do things in the safest manner possible. If your life or you limbs are in a potentially dangerous or compromising position, use some common sense before proceeding! I'm working on my set up right now. The spot I had before where it was flat and easy to work on was right in front of my shop in the back yard. However, I now have a 32' travel trailer in front of it in the side yard and it's a pain to get in there so pulling it out is not a viable option for a couple hour job. Ok that being said let's move on.

Start by jacking up the truck and removing the wheel.


You see the jack there supporting it, but what is hard to see is the cribbing that I put under the axle so the truck is not supported by the jack only. I also left the passenger side wheel on, so I'm only working with one wheel in the air at a time.


Just a straight on view of what we're replacing. Lift block (black) under the stock block which is stacked on top of it. The mini u-bolt under the spring pack is for the air bag bracket. That's getting removed as well.


Another more open view.


This is my first obstacle. I did not have a deep well socket long enough to fit over these bolts. It's like a double deep well or something. Not something I'm familiar with.


First things first, let's make sure the nuts can even come off. Spray them with a lube of your choice. I used PB Blaster, because that's what I have. Also remove the brake cable from the bracket.


As I mentioned, I did not have a deep enough socket to fit over those bolts. SO I had to cut the bolts off a bit to get down to the nuts. Not exactly what I wanted to do, because it's ugly, but I need to change out the bolts anyway. I'm going to 3/4" PMF bolts. SO when I get to that point, I'll get a socket then. In this case, I grabbed a piece of cardboard to put over the back, to protect the bag, and any other lines that were exposed, from sparks from my grinder.


 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Next I needed to remove the traction bars. I was pretty irritated at the design of these. As you can see in this picture, I'm holding a socket up to the nut, but I can't get it on because there's literally 1/32-1/16" between the nut and bracket. How this was missed, I don't know.


My solution to this little issue was to grab a big screwdriver, and jam it in there as a wedge, and loosen the bolt from the top, instead of from the nut down. It worked. Not ideal, but it worked. Let me add, I could not get an open ended wrench in there either.






Need to remove the brake line, and then finish removing the bolts and brackets.


Then remove the U-Bolts. I had to change up the cribbing a bit because the bracket for the traction bars and the u-bolts were directly on top of it. So I moved it all forward a bit. Again, I DO NOT advise doing things this way. I need to get the proper stands and such. But this is what I had to work with at the moment. I did not even have enough 4x4's to go all the way up to the spring. But this is what it looks like when everything is removed.




Next I dropped the axle a little bit on the jack to give some space to pull the blocks out.




Removed the brackets for the air bags. They weren't very strong. They are the ones that come with the kit, but as quickly as they bent when installing them, just from tightening the bolts, I was not impressed. So those are out!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So what did you do then for brackets? Glad you asked. I put the brackets on the new blocks, which I ordered with the beefed up air bag perch, and drilled the holes for the bolt that goes into the bag.


Drilled my pilot hole in it.


Then drilled the bigger hole for the bolt.


Then repeated for the block on the other side.




I put the block in and bolted it down. I ran into a little issue though when trying to bolt up the traction bars. The ears on the block, where the U-bolts go through, are in the way of the bolts for the traction bar bolts. SO those had to be cut off of the bottom.




After it was all bolted up, I bolted the air bag to the perch via the hole I drilled.


Then I put the wheel back on and did the other side. Wasn't too difficult, to do. Overall I'm happy I did it. I've noticed a bit more of a solid feel in the back, and there was a knock/clunk on my passenger side, and after replacing these, it's no longer there. So my assumption is either something was loose, or those blocks were moving somehow. I've also since aired up the bags, and I've towed the trailer with it and I can tell a difference there too. Just feels more solid. Maybe it's in my head, I don't know. But whatever it is, it's comforting.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok, next order of business. I had to address the front track bar and ball joint issues. I bought a PMF Adjustable Drop In Track bar, and while installing it, originally, found out the ball joint was destroyed as well. So I ordered a Motorcraft one and got busy!

Stock Track bar from when I swapped it out. I still have it if someone needs it or wants it.








And here's the PMF Bar with the bad ball joint. See the rip. That's not good lol.


Previous work. New PMF Adjustable Drag Link, New Moog Drag Link End and Ball Joint, New Moog Tie Rod End passenger side.


And the New Driver Side Moog Tie Rod End.




New Moog Upper Drag Link End with ball joint. And of course the PMF Track Bar in the back there.


Motorcraf Track Bar Ball Joint, for those who need the part number.


That white plastic cover comes off.




Picked up a ball joint removal tool from my local O'Reilly Auto Parts. It was a free rental, although they do hold a deposit just in case.


My cart of weapons! See my yellow handled "Ford Tool" down on the bottom!


My other weapon of choice, to make sure I'm doing things right, and google search if I get stuck!


Ok so one of the reasons I did this posting is because when I found out I needed to do this project, I could not find much in the way of a pictoral step by step process. I found a lot of information on it, and a lot of scattered suggestive information, but it was a bit confusing. So I figured, much like anything else I do when I do a project, is I'd make it as simple and step by step as I could so maybe it could help someone else out down the line. So, let's get started with the real work!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Starting on the driver side. This is where the bracket is with the big bolt for the track bar. You do not need to take the wheel off for this btw.


First we need to measure up as best as we can to get an idea where we should be when this is done. I have a straight edge for my saws, I used that, and just a tape measure for this.


Then measured the driver side fender to the straight edge. I laced the straight edge between the nubs on the sidewall of the tire all the way to the ground. Then measured.


Then did the same for the passenger side.


Now that you have your measurements, written down I hope or you can always refer back to pictures like I did, start the truck and turn the wheel as far left as it will go. I found this out the hard way so if you don't know, when you have your wheel turned full like that and turn the truck off, it will recoil on you. Either that, or my truck steering is effed up, which I'm fine for someone to tell me that if it's the case. LOL So turn your wheel all the way left, like pictured.


Next was a little trial and error. When I did this the first time, I did not do it right admittedly. I used a pipe wrench, and an impact wrench. I knew I needed to do it differently. The bolt is a 1 3/16" or 30mm as I later found out.


I was working with the 1/2" drive ratchet for this, and I had a 3/8" breaker bar, and I just could not get a throw on it. So I picked up this 24" 1/2" drive breaker bar!


I don't know what it's like for a stock truck to do this. However, mine is lifted 6" and I have drop bump stop brackets. This is an issue because I could not get the socket and breaker bar in there. So those needed to be removed. I used a 5/8" socket and a box wrench for this.


Bump stop drop bracket.




Now there's plenty of room to get in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Using the 1 3/16" deep well socket, has to be deep well a standard size won't be long enough or at least it wasn't for me, I broke the nut loose. It was not as easy as it sounds. I'm a feather over 300lbs and I had to really lean on it to get it to pop loose.




I would advise leaving the bolt in place at this point. Just thread the nut a couple of threads to ensure it stays on, although I don't think the bolt will come out that easily.


Next I straightened the wheels back up, so that everything would be the way it should be, straight. Don't know if you have to do this, but for me it made sense so I did it.


Now to remove the nut on the ball joint. I used a 1" deep well socket. Again I think there's a particular MM size that is called for here, but I had this and it fit nice enough to feel comfortable using it.


Throw the gun in reverse and let her have it!


Again, like the upper nut, leave the nut threaded her a few threads. When you go to drop the bar out, it will prevent the bar from dropping on you, or anything else. The nut will stop it. Then you can hold the bar and loosen the nut and drop it in a controlled fashion.


FORD TOOL!!!!!


Now don't let this fool you. Like I said, I already changed my bar out so this came off pretty easily. The stock one was a pain in the tail to get off. I had to pound and pound and cuss and pound some more to get it off. Not all are going to be that difficult but they certainly aren't going to be that easy either! So just keep that in mind when you're doing this. It's also not easy to get good throw on the hammer either, it's pretty tight in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Now remove the upper nut.


And bolt.


And there she hangs. It's not going to just slide out. It's pretty squeezed in there since there's so much torque on the nut and bolt, it really clamps that bracket together on the joint.


You can use a flat headed screwdriver, or something flat and thin to pry it out with and drop it out of there.


Close up of the adjustable joint. There are two little sleeves that go in it. You can see it there inside the bolt hole, with the flared end. Those should come out, just so you don't loose them. If you're working with the stock bar, you don't have this and unless you're changing the bushing out, you don't need to worry about any of this.




Stock bar end.


Now remove the nut on the lower joint to remove the bar.




This is the culprit. Torn booted ball joint. This has to be removed. It's a press in ball joint, which means it's pressed into the metal bracket above it. It presses up by the way. I see that question come up a lot.
 
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