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Discussion Starter #1
What percentage of biodiesel is safe to run in the 6.0? Could 100% be run in the summer? or even 100% be run in the winter with a seperate heated tank? Basically with the temperature not being an issue, can it be used just like in the 7.3? Or close to being compatible enough?
 

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If you are actually talking about bio diesel and not some blend concoction I would say yes. I have run home brewed B100 in my 7.3 for thousands of miles.
You may have to change the fuel filter a time or two at first depending on how clean or dirty your fuel system is.
You can cut it with dino for cold temps. 70/30 should get you well below freezing, the oil stock and quality can have some effect on that.
You can heat the tank as well but I never have, so I can't speak about that.
To my knowledge there is nothing different about a 6.0 that would keep you from using Bio unless it has a DPF or Cat Converter. If it has either I think they need to be removed first.
 

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Yes I am talking about full on biodiesel, just as stated in the first post. And I'm also inquiring about the use of biodiesel in a 6.0 not a 7.3


Thanks
 

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should be fine. as far as fuel systems are concerend they arent so much different than a 7.3 that it woudl cause issues. i would go B100
 

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when you all say B100, you mean veg oil right? So in the warmer months of the year you can run straight b100 in your diesel tank and it will start and run perfect?
sorry for my ignorance, however i am very interested as Diesel is going back up and i said i refused to pay over $3gallon and now i'm paying $3.40/gallon. I'm looking for a way to bring my costs down, especially if its going to hit $4-5/gallon again this year.
 

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when you all say B100, you mean veg oil right? So in the warmer months of the year you can run straight b100 in your diesel tank and it will start and run perfect?
sorry for my ignorance, however i am very interested as Diesel is going back up and i said i refused to pay over $3gallon and now i'm paying $3.40/gallon. I'm looking for a way to bring my costs down, especially if its going to hit $4-5/gallon again this year.
No he means biodiesel. My partner has 40K miles on B100 in his 2005 F250 w 6.0.

Whatever you choose to put in your tank make sure its filtered and dewatered. Seems like folks think they can just roll up to a restaurant and put free oil in their tank, doesn't work like that.
 

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where are you all getting B100? i cant even find B20 around my area...
 

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when you all say B100, you mean veg oil right? So in the warmer months of the year you can run straight b100 in your diesel tank and it will start and run perfect?
sorry for my ignorance, however i am very interested as Diesel is going back up and i said i refused to pay over $3gallon and now i'm paying $3.40/gallon. I'm looking for a way to bring my costs down, especially if its going to hit $4-5/gallon again this year.
It will, and your best choices are biodiesel or straight vegetable oil (svo, also called wvo for waste vegetable oil).

B100 refers to 100% biodiesel. B50 means 50% biodiesel and 50% regular diesel. B20 means 20% biodiesel and so on...

Generally speaking, you can run B100 in your factory tank in the warmer months but have to run something less concentrated when its cold (B70, B50, or B20). If you have an auxillary fuel tank that's heated, you can run B100 year round. But if you're adding a second tank that's heated, the better route would be svo.
 

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thanks for the clarification! as always you guys are a HUGE help. Now i just need to find someone who's making B100
 

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Discussion Starter #10
thanks for the clarification! as always you guys are a HUGE help. Now i just need to find someone who's making B100
All depends on your location for specific percentages. Lots of companies especially newer companies may only offer B-50 as the highest percentage available due to operating costs, expired credits, and demand, etc. But if you can only find B-50 it is still an excellent fuel and offers way more than enough lubrication for your injectors, etc.

Studies conclude that only 2% biodiesel offers enough lubrication for our engines and is better than any other type of lubrication based additive including 2 cycle oil.

2% would be just over a half gallon in a 29 gallon tank.
 

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when you all say B100, you mean veg oil right? So in the warmer months of the year you can run straight b100 in your diesel tank and it will start and run perfect?...
yes, for a while. but failure will likely occur down the road. its best to run a proper conversion with wvo/svo
 

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Veg oil is NOT bio diesel until it has undergone trans-esterification.
Bio diesel can be made from veg oil (svo or wvo among other things) but bio diesel is NOT the same thing as veg oil!
Do not think you can just add veg oil of any type to your fuel tank and run it without consequence, you can't.
 

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i know that, i know a guy locally that makes bio. I always thought that you had to have a separate tank which is why i hadn't looked too far into it.
 

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i know that, i know a guy locally that makes bio. I always thought that you had to have a separate tank which is why i hadn't looked too far into it.
No second tank needed for bio. The only thing that will have to do to your truck to run bio is change a fuel filter or 2 when you first start running it. Bio will clean your tank & fuel lines of any crap built up from running D2. Once that is cleared then you should be fine.

What are your driving habits? Do you have alot of short drives? If you do then bio probably will be the way to go. If you don't then I would suggest SVO & putting a second fuel system conversion on your truck. IMO it is much better then bio. I don't like the chemicals you must use to make bio. They can be handled safely but if not they are at worst life threating & at best cause serve heath issues. Plus there is alot more processing to making bio then SVO. SVO can be run in cold climates where bio either cannot or must be blended with D2 or Kero to keep it from gelling. You will probably spend more intitally to get setup for SVO but you will save so much processing time running SVO then bio. In the end you will recoup the costs of both very quickly in fuel savings.
 

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No second tank needed for bio. The only thing that will have to do to your truck to run bio is change a fuel filter or 2 when you first start running it. Bio will clean your tank & fuel lines of any crap built up from running D2. Once that is cleared then you should be fine.

What are your driving habits? Do you have alot of short drives? If you do then bio probably will be the way to go. If you don't then I would suggest SVO & putting a second fuel system conversion on your truck. IMO it is much better then bio. I don't like the chemicals you must use to make bio. They can be handled safely but if not they are at worst life threating & at best cause serve heath issues. Plus there is alot more processing to making bio then SVO. SVO can be run in cold climates where bio either cannot or must be blended with D2 or Kero to keep it from gelling. You will probably spend more intitally to get setup for SVO but you will save so much processing time running SVO then bio. In the end you will recoup the costs of both very quickly in fuel savings.
i have a lot of short drives right now, most of my driving is going from home to work which is about 10 miles, or to a buddies house which is about 13 miles from my house.
In the summer its the same running around with the occasional towing about 5-6k lbs around town.
Where i live is very central to a lot so if i do get on the highway its for a short period.

I really wanted to stay away from putting in a second tank, i've already got a tool box which i use and i don't want to lose anymore bed space as i've only got a 6' box.

you can only run bio in the original tank? You must run a 2nd tank for svo?
 

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Yes you must have a second tank to run SVO & the tank must be heated. More specific the pickup in the tank must be heated. Not necessary to heat the whole tank of VO. The reason SVO must heated is to thin it out so it is close to the same viscosity as D2 so engine can burn it properly. Without heating SVO your engine for sure( not maybe) will see a short & untimely death.

If you want to keep your bed space install an under bed tank. They are avialable but usually pretty pricey.

Sounds like most of driving is more suited to bio but keep in mind it would not take very many long trips to pay for the cost of a SVO conversion.

I will throw something else out there for yah to think about. I'm probably going to get blasted for this but consider another option. Waste Motor oil. Yes I said it.:eek:mg: I have been doing some looking into it on this forum Bio-Diesel and Alternative Fuels - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com. This a very hot button topic on the ORG. But on the Dieselstop it seems to be accpeted. I will say that I have not run any WMO in my truck & am not telling you it will not do damage to your engine. I don't know yet. I am still in the checking it out stage. But guys on that forum appear to be having good success with it. If it interests you then check it out & make your own decision on it. Again if you go this route you do it at your OWN risk. Vegetable oil has alot more history to it then Waste Motor Oil. So your chances of success IMHO are greater with VO. But if you are a risk taker then it may be for you. Just offering you a POSSIBLE option. I stress the word possible.
 

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Good points on the production of bio. I have made hundreds of gallons so I speak from practical experience there.
The chemicals can be dangerous but they are manageable. Disposal is probably a bigger problem there.
There is a considerable time element with bio production and it can be a problem in cold weather.
I use a second tank for the bio for just that reason. If it is cold enough for gelling to be a concern I just switch back to my diesel tank.
It has worked great and for short trips is probably better than a wvo system.
Having said that, I am getting ready to install a Vegiestroke on my truck to get away from the negatives of bio production.
Guess I'll just have to drive more!
 

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Hey guys, i'm somewhat clueless to all of this biodiesel stuff. But a good friend of my boss' is a local fuel supplier, and they make there own biodiesel. He says he can get me however much i need whenever for free or next to nothing.

Say i just pick up a 55 gallon drum every now and then Assuming its straight 100% biodiesel, Can i simply just put it in my tank without changing anything else on my truck?

Should I start with 2% 10% 20% and so on? Is running 100% good/safe?

I understand i'll prolly have to change fuel filters till its clean.

I also live in South Florida, so apart from from a few days in winter, temperatures are very moderate to warm to hot as hell specially in the summer.

Thanks in advance.
 

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I've been running home brewed B100 in my 7.3 for over two years and thousands of miles.
I changed the fuel filter twice in the first year and have since been filtering my bio through a 2 mic filter when I pump it into the truck.
No more problems with filters and I cut it to about 70% bio X 30% D2 for winter.
The truck loves it and so does my wallet.
 

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I've been running home brewed B100 in my 7.3 for over two years and thousands of miles.
I changed the fuel filter twice in the first year and have since been filtering my bio through a 2 mic filter when I pump it into the truck.
No more problems with filters and I cut it to about 70% bio X 30% D2 for winter.
The truck loves it and so does my wallet.
When you first started did you use B100? or did you start with B5 or B10/B20 Etc, and after a few tanks to clean out the system then step to B100?

And i still have to talk to the supplier on what he actually has, but assuming he only has B100, if i need to run a lower percentage bio to start, is it as simple as filling the truck with d2 then adding the appropriate percentage of Bio to give me a B5 B10 B20 etc mixture or does it need to be mixed first, or Bio First than Diesel?

Thanks in advance.
 
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