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Is this place any good? He's preaching about using Ford Gold and I always ppl saying it's sh*t and to use CAT ELC-1 instead....but anyways....he seems very knowledgeable and opinionated.

He has this Engine Damage Avoidance System (EDAS) that is suppose to warn when your coolant pressure surpasses 16psi to avoid any damage internally. Is this worth anything? It's $250.00.

Any input would be great. I've been watching his videos this morning. Is he correct on using the Ford Motorcraft brand filters and stuff? That what I use anyway...just wanna make sure its doing the job for the price! haha! :icon_ford:
 

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Run like hell
 

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Is this place any good? He's preaching about using Ford Gold and I always ppl saying it's sh*t and to use CAT ELC-1 instead....but anyways....he seems very knowledgeable and opinionated.

This guy is a sales man of the worst kind. :doh: I will grant you that he is opinionated but the knowledgeable is questionable. The Ford gold is the number one cause of 6.0 problems, if guys stoped using it he would sell a lot less of his rip off product.

He has this Engine Damage Avoidance System (EDAS) that is suppose to warn when your coolant pressure surpasses 16psi to avoid any damage internally. Is this worth anything? It's $250.00.

I wouldn't give you 20 bucks for his useless product. For less than $200 you can get a Scan-gauge II and that will tell you a lot more than his POS device. By the time the coolant is over pressurised the "damage" is done. My EGR cooler went bad and the only sign was that the engine was consuming coolant at a slow rate. The best plan is to delete your EGR cooler if you can. If you must keep it get one from Bullet Proof Diesel.
Get a SGII and watch your EOT vs ECT delta. to see if your oil cooler is getting clogged and needs replaced. Make sure you flush the system with restore and refill with a good CAT - ELC.


Any input would be great. I've been watching his videos this morning. Is he correct on using the Ford Motorcraft brand filters and stuff? That what I use anyway...just wanna make sure its doing the job for the price! haha!

For sure, stick with Motor Craft filters and the OEM filter caps.


:icon_ford:

Good luck with your new Ford!
 

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Bill Hewitt is a tool and Powerstroke Help needs serious help. Seriously, stay far away from that idiot. His EDAS is a joke and a waste of money. Get yourself an Edge Insight or some gauges to monitor your engine like everyone with any sense should do and you will know what's up long before that stupid EDAS ever has a clue.
 

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yeah....this was my initial thought after watching some of his videos. He seems like a jackass that a found a video camera....:hehe:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
does anybody know of a good oil bypass filtration kit? I know amsoil has one and they make good stuff
 

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Amsoils is good.
 

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i was thinking about getting that and the diesel site coolant filtration kit also.....good buy?
 

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Look into the NUC Motorsports bypass oil cooler.
 

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I had watched his videos too, bored on a rainy night, he says the ford gold is propelyene based, when ford recommends not to use propeyelene. I dont follow what he says, and many will tell you on here as they already did, owning a GM for quite some time, i finally switched to ford, and very happy i did. i still have warranty but after its up im gunna get ELC coolant. I have already orded Edge CTS with the Pod Pillar and adapter to keep things nice and neat. my truck has 41k on it, so im changing the fluids on it, Transfer Case, Diffs, Trans Pan Drain Only. My Brake Fluid and Power Steering too, All to Amsoil. Like Syns and am a dealer so price isnt to bad. Choose to run whatever fluid you like, as long as its approved. And always order Motorcraft Filters, They gave videos on other oil filters, esp length, bc it wont close the bypass drain and alot of other problems he is right about the filters tho, but other than that lolol
 

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I had watched his videos too, bored on a rainy night, he says the ford gold is propelyene based, when ford recommends not to use propeyelene.
When the Ford Gold was first introduced, it was indeed a proylene glycol based coolant. It was phased out and changed to ethylene glycol.
Where does FORD not recommend the use of an ethylene coolant for the 6.0? I would like to see where it is specifically written that FORD does not recommend a coolant type of which they themselves used...
That recommendation about not using the propylene based coolant is for the 7.3, which is an entirely different beast.


EDIT: After some thought about the source of my information about the FORD GOLD coolant being initially introduced as a propylene glycol based coolant, I must say that I can not find any information with which to support this claim other than my original source. One persons hearsay is not sufficient evidence for that claim.
 

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i dont exactly remember but i saw some info saying that ford does not recommend using propylene in thier vehicles. they recommend ethylene. Im guessing his video of it sayin propeylene are old, when it was first introduced. If i find where i saw that they dont recommend the use of prop antifreeze ill post it.
 

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see if this loads up

http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/tsb/tsb/files/012306.pdf

and the yrs go up to the 7.3, which ur dead on right, let me see about the 2003+ now

Checking some websites out, altho not endorsed by ford say not to use Universal Coolants or Propeylene gylcol based coolants. Porbably due to conflict in HOAT, OAT and Green coolants. Also heard of propeylene turning into glue in a 6.0 PSD with heat and pressure. Not sure of this entirely tho, dont want to put out false info, maybe someone can confirm this?
 

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Nobody would recommend mixing different coolants. Be they HOAT, OAT. green, red, orange or otherwise.
I did a bit of research a while back on the Evans NPG+ propylene based coolant. That is how I know that FORD never came out with a recommendation against its use in the 6.0, and knew that FORD did not recommend its use in a 7.3
I sent letters to manufacturers of waterpumps and radiators to verify that the propylene coolant could not damage them. The propylene glycol is non-corrosive. The one issue with using it in a 6.0 is that water is viewed as a contaminate. Since the 6.0 retains close to half of the cooling system total capacity in the block (even when fully draining the radiator, hoses and opening both block drains) it is not an easy conversion to make. The manufacturer of Evans NPG+ actually do the conversions (although for fleets, not individual users) and use blowers to push the water/old coolant out of the block. Even then there is still some water that will remain.
I have never heard of propylene glycol turning to glue. It is stable and won't do that. If there was a contamination issue where the contaminate caused the propylene to thicken, that is a whole different story. Whoever did the conversion did it completely and totally incorrect. I don't even know what COULD cause that to occur beyond water contamination coupled with extremely cold temperatures. Even if that happened, the propylene glycol coolant would eventually melt the ice formation within itself.
As far as heat/pressure causing it? Nope, it won't. You can actually run the propylene glycol coolant in a zero pressure system. There is a supplier that recommends drilling a hole in your degas cap when you switch over to the propylene coolant. This is to allow the water that would still be present from a conversion to vent to the atmosphere as steam. The propylene glycol will make the engine run hotter, which for a diesel is not a bad thing. They run more efficiently when hot.
This is about as far as I want to go into this in this thread. If you want more information about propylene glycol coolant use in this engine, check out the thread where I posted my research. LINK HERE
 

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Discussion Starter #18
NYC....thank you for the info! I'm getting ready to a do a coolant flush and put in CAT ELC. I was going to do flush coolant / add restore / run for 90 min / flush till the water is clear / then fill w/ CAT ELC. 2 ques....should i do the VC-9 after I flush the restore out? The CAT ELC everyone is talking about...is that the red colored one?
http://www.cat.com/cda/files/1386276/7/PEHJ0067-02.pdf
 

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NYC....thank you for the info! I'm getting ready to a do a coolant flush and put in CAT ELC. I was going to do flush coolant / add restore / run for 90 min / flush till the water is clear / then fill w/ CAT ELC. 2 ques....should i do the VC-9 after I flush the restore out? The CAT ELC everyone is talking about...is that the red colored one?
http://www.cat.com/cda/files/1386276/7/PEHJ0067-02.pdf
That's the one but make sure you get the concentrate for refilling after the flush. You'll have a lot of water left in the system after flushing and the premix won't give you the right final concentration.
 

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NYC....thank you for the info! I'm getting ready to a do a coolant flush and put in CAT ELC. I was going to do flush coolant / add restore / run for 90 min / flush till the water is clear / then fill w/ CAT ELC. 2 ques....should i do the VC-9 after I flush the restore out? The CAT ELC everyone is talking about...is that the red colored one?
http://www.cat.com/cda/files/1386276/7/PEHJ0067-02.pdf
Check the link in my sig for how to perform a good flush of your cooling system. Its all there. Just disregard the "reverse flush" part of the document as it was written for a very different set of circumstances.

As "Fishermedic" said, you will need the concentrated form of that coolant.
 
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