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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The lower radiator hose broke on me near the summit of McKenzie pass about a month ago pulling a 20 foot trailer. Not a complete loss of coolant, but the 6.0 bleed the next 30 miles. I replaced the hoses now about a 1k miles more it is leaking again, while trying to find the leak I did find this in the inter cooling pipe.

106k egr cooler was done about 15k miles back.
 

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The lower radiator hose broke on me near the summit of McKenzie pass about a month ago pulling a 20 foot trailer. Not a complete loss of coolant, but the 6.0 bleed the next 30 miles. I replaced the hoses now about a 1k miles more it is leaking again, while trying to find the leak I did find this in the inter cooling pipe.
Blown EGR cooler would be my vote. What is the mileage of the truck?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I expect some oil. And the EGR is fully deleted not just welded shut?


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No the egr cooler was replaced not welded or deleted. The dreaded wrench was showing. And I had no way of knowing what had been done in the past. Seems like it was about a 2 thousand dollar repair just two and half years ago. The trucks deltas never seemed to go more than about 12 degrees difference after the two coolers were replaced. But it always seemed to run a bit hot going over the mountain passes. At this point I am only hoping for it to get me back home some 300 miles, luckily no trailer in tow going home this time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok as I read up more about egr failure, I get the feeling even though the engine did not over heat on me. The lack of coolant in the system let the egr get to hot. So if I can drive it home before the egr blows open like the hose did, my repair this time may not have to include the oil cooler. Small consolation.
 

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What does the oil on the dipstick look like?
same as in that air tube?

Leave the "radiator cap" loose -- there should be less problems from the EGR cooler
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So I feel kind of lucky that the hose to the thermostat started dripping. Otherwise I would not have taken the charge hose off and seen the mud, oil/coolant mix. That was after about 600 miles. Keep my fingers crossed I can get the truck home 275 more miles, no trailer but loaded 1k+ lbs in the bed. Oil stills looks good, I did have to add about a cup of of distilled water after the 600 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
What EGR cooler did you install?

What year truck?
2005 The work was done right when I got the truck. I seem to remember hearing it was AFe blade runner egr cooler and Ford oil cooler. If the egr failed I think it is more because lack of coolant, and surely that name brand one which is only a reworked used ford version would have also failed. Hopefully today the truck will make it home before the grenade prone 6.0 explodes. If I had 10 grand to do the head studs and even more money needed to do a huge list of other so called bulletproof stuff. You still end up with a poorly designed engine. I would rather have a 2004 5.9 HO installed instead. I love the truck but...
 

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The Ford 04.5 and up EGR coolers were known to be a weak design.

You have to be aware of what OEM parts are best and what aftermarket parts are best. That said, you are right in that even the BPD EGR cooler might be challenged with a large loss of coolant. Even so, their 04.5+ EGR cooler is not "just a re-worked OEM cooler".

The people that don't spend the time learning that choice of parts is crucial, comprise most of the unhappy owners.
 

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Heat stress is the usual killer of EGR coolers -- running low on coolant (or a plugged oil cooler) will cause the internal temperature to swing wildly -- this causes the internal tubes and outer housing to expand at different rates -- flexing the tubes and welds

Running low on coolant can cause the water pump to temporarily "air lock" -- then start pumping again -- this causes sudden heat stress on the cooler, heads, and block -- never a good situation to have
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Heat stress is the usual killer of EGR coolers -- running low on coolant (or a plugged oil cooler) will cause the internal temperature to swing wildly -- this causes the internal tubes and outer housing to expand at different rates -- flexing the tubes and welds

Running low on coolant can cause the water pump to temporarily "air lock" -- then start pumping again -- this causes sudden heat stress on the cooler, heads, and block -- never a good situation to have
I agree it certainly was not my choice to run low on coolant. I was watching the gauges, but without being able to monitor the egr temperatures I had no way of knowing. Best as I remember the trucks coolant and oil temperature were about 230 with less than 6 degrees difference. The fan was going full speed and everything cooled down quickly after cresting the hill. As I drove the next 30 miles nothing went over about 205. Still I should of stopped and called for a tow as night fell and left the trailer on the side of the highway to be stolen. As the world seems to be now a days. Later today I will look again at the charge pipe. It made the 5 hour drive yesterday without over heating or boiling out, no degas bottle puking either. Now I still have to address the inevitable issues that surround the 6.0.
 

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I agree, would not have left the rig on the side of the road
Loose the pressure cap and keep the tank full -- baby the truck in to port
 
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