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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all. This thread is documenting some work that I already did. I'll start with a pic showing before...



...and after...



Before I get too much crap for the ORG sticker... my original shroud sticker was damaged, so I just peeled it off. I put the ORG sticker on as a joking attempt to suckup for ROTM, but I ended up liking it. It'll stay until I get around to ordering a new OEM one.

Here is another after pic while backflushing the remote oil cooler. It shows the grille-to-crossmember cover back in place...



I am not a professional mechanic, so I am not putting this forward as some bible. I am posting this mostly as encouragement for others who are undertaking this type of project to save themselves some money and get more comfortable with their truck.

Because I am not a pro, I had to use some strategies that the pros don't need to use. Hopefully, it may be of help to those who are jumping into it like I was.

I am not going to go into great detail about how I did each step. What I will do - and I think is more helpful - is post links to the document/video that I relied upon to do what I did.

Keep in mind that my truck is a 2004 with a late model engine. Your situation may vary!


My task list was the following:
  • Oil cooler replacement/relocation
  • EGR cooler replacement
  • Radiator replacement
  • DS exhaust manifold replacement
  • Up-pipe/y-pipe install
  • Turbo reconditioning
  • CAC boot/clamp replacement
  • Pyrometer install
  • Front shock replacement
In addition to the needed parts, I purchased the following extras that were helpful: Craftsman cordless right-angle impact driver, IPR socket, Harbor Freight panel clip pliers, Tractor Supply 3/8” air ratchet, Permatex Engine Assembly Lube, eBay 3/8" digital torque module, and lots of nitrile gloves and rags.

I run this as separate posts with a few pics at a time.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
So... it is in the barn. The first step is removing the grill and popping fasteners off of the flexible fan shroud/duct and the harness crossover at the rear of the engine compartment. Time for the panel clip destruction pliers.

You might as well just go buy replacement fasteners right now.



As soon as you are done with removing fasteners, you will discover that you are physically incapable of reaching 85% of what you need to for what is ahead.

You could buy a top-side creeper. ...or build a top-side bed out of spare lumber, an old solid-core door, and a kindergarten nap mat.



TS creepers are cool, don't get me wrong. ...but for as much time as I spent up here, I was glad to be laying down.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Next out... intake, batteries, CAC pipes, and degas bottle.



Docs are below, although not terribly necessary.

One thing that I left off the task list was the repair of the EBP pigtail and replacement of the EBP tube. I had noticed when cleaning the EBP tube at an earlier date that the pigtail was damaged and the tube flare nut was badly pitted.

I also decide after yanking the degas bottle that it would be replaced, also.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Time to yank the fan shroud, fan, serpentine belts, and water pump. Oops, left that off my task list also.

I really only needed to go after the belts. I decided to do the water pump on principle. The truck had 128K miles on it with 90K on the current engine (replacement courtesy Ford - a gift to the PO). 90K seemed a good time to swap the pump.

Before doing this task, I watched this video. Waaaaaay helpful!


Now you see the water pump...



Now you don't...



More alarming, though, is the condition of the belts. They had to go.

I put in a Dieselsite pump to get the steel impellers. I spoke with Dieselsite and - from what they said - the remainder of the pump is OEM. Seemed a good choice.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Next out is the FICM, top alternator, turbo, secondary fuel filter, oil filter tower, and intake.



This is really the first shot that shows how I keep the tie wrap people in business.

Basically, when I disconnect any harness connection or hose connection, it either gets a bright yellow/orange tie wrap on it or a piece of painters tape. I then write what it is on the tie wrap or tape. Mating connections will have a letter that matches them up, also.

This might be overkill. ...but I didn't wonder where anything went at the end of this.

Now it was time to pull the oil cooler cover...



Sadly, I was not a winner. :(



Next is draining and cleaning.







All clean!

 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Finally, it is time to cap the oil cooler reservoir with the BPD plate. I refilled the reservoir with T6 before installing the plate because I did not want to spend all that time cranking for the first start.



Now that the oil system is - for the most part - protected again, it is time to address the driver side exhaust manifold. I have had a leak.

All but one of the manifold fasteners come out. One rounds off. I tried extractors. No go.

Then I poked around on the internet and decided to cut it off. This was one of the articles that I ran across:

2004 F250 Broken Exhuast Manifold Stud

So, I used my Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel to cut the stud just below the nut. The manifold came off leaving plenty of stud to grab onto.



I don't like cutting fasteners, even when they are toast. ...but it is how it needs to be done.

I can see my leak, easy enough.



I drill, tap, and install the EGT probe in the new manifold.





...and on it goes.



Just a note about the wheel well liner. I was able to pull the manifold without removing it. ...but life would've probably been much more pleasant if I had. Just FYI.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Time to thrown the intake, EGR cooler, and y-pipe in.



At this point, I am bouncing back and forth between the previous documents from Ford and the BPD installation manual for the oil cooler relocation.

http://www.bulletproofdiesel.tv/Files/Documents/BulletProofDiesel%20VK688-100.pdf

The BPD documentation is good. The BPD packaging - of course - is excellent.

Sadly, as the stuff goes back in, the shiny BPD plate gets covered up...



Time for the turbo...



I should mention that I "recondition" the turbo using the Ford "reconditioning" kit. It is really just a cleaning kit. I didn't know that at the time. I will be pulling the turbo again to do it right.

There is no point in showing any pics of me working on a turbo. The only thing than anyone needs is this thread by @nighthawk285:

http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/general-6-0l-discussion/465706-reconditioning-6-0-turbo.html

...and, then, the FICM...

 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Next in is the remote oil cooler and the vacuum reservoir. The old vacuum reservior had to come out to make room for this oil cooler.





...and, then, the belts and fan.





In the above pic, you can also see that I swapped out my '04 EGR throttle valve craziness with an '05 intake elbow. Nice!
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Because I had done my best to scuff up the crossmember that the radiator holddown brackets attached to, I wanted to give it a quick touchup before going any further.



Then it's time for a shiny radiator.



...and battery base plates, the fan shroud, CAC boots/pipes, and the degas bottle here:



...and here.

 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Here is a shot from the other side showing the coolant filter reinstalled. You may notice that the coolant filter used to say Dieselsite and now does not.



Backstory...

I installed the coolant filter months before this project. After I purchased and installed it, I discovered that some brainiac had redesigned the filter head bracket to go under the radiator holddown bracket. That raised the top of the bracket so much that it caused the bracket to hit a hood spar. Duh.

As an added treat, the now higher radiator holddown no longer held the radiator down. The radiator would rock back and forth. After a short period of time, my OEM radiator had developed a leak.

I contacted Dieselsite to see if they had any reports of problems with this new design. Nooooo... Not since freakin' Noah used this very freakin' coolant filter on the freakin' ark had they EVER had a clearance issue. EVER.

Their suggested solution: Raise my hood.

The problem with this is that I like my hood right where it is. For lots of reasons, I suppose, but mostly because IT LINES UP WITH MY FENDERS.

Not appreciating their recommendation, I reworked the bracket so that it is no longer be beneath the holddown. Done. I ground off their name shortly after.

It was not vindictiveness. I hold no grudge against Dieselsite. After all, I installed one of their water pumps long after my unfortunate phone call with Bob. But, they did lose their advertising privileges in my engine compartment.

Now we come to the end... Here, again, is a pic with it (mostly) back together:



...and, again, during a backflush:



The backflush pic is very important. It is the whole point of this thing.

As you can see, I have a kit made up with an RV filter and some hoses. It takes me about 10 minutes to pull the coolant hoses from the cooler, attach my backflusher, and flush the cooler. I did it once a week for about a month after I did this work.

The first time, out came a bunch of sand and grit - probably left over from the Restore/Restore+ flushing process before all of the work was done. The next time, not so much. The last two, perfectly clean.

...and that is the beauty of it. I can't see ever needing another cooler. ..but - had I not been able to do that first flush so easily - who knows?
 
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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
A few last points...

I had mentioned that I filled the oil reservoir with T6 to shorten the crank time on the first start. It was crazy. After all this work, my truck started up in about 1-2 seconds - just like it does every other day. Very nice. I recommend doing that.

The other point is that the BPD oil cooler relocation functions exactly as advertised. I have no delta concerns and - if I ever did - I would have a new oil cooler on that truck in about 30 minutes. It is nice to have that particular concern off of my radar screen.

...and, to any of you wondering if you can do this work too, you can. The only thing that it took - really - was time and an attention to detail. Between the oil cooler/relocation, manifold, radiator, shocks, water pump, etc... I literally saved thousands doing this myself. You can too.
 

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Great write up, thanks!
 
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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Great write up, thanks!
Thanks for reading, Qholic. Your post reminded me of maybe the most important thing...

When I bought my truck a few years back, I knew nothing about 6.0s and not so much about diesels. I bought it to be a hauler for my hobby vehicle.



Learning about my truck has been interesting and becoming more comfortable working on it is fun.

So... what I left off of this post was this...

I really appreciate the time that you and the others put into the site here because - without that - I would have had way more problems and way less understanding. It is nice to have a place to go to that, likely, has all of what I need to know and - if not - has people that can help.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
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great write up...
only problem is a bit of jealousy over a couple things you have done i have not as yet...

and that half track...but i wont go into that :nod:
 
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