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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, I know that battery brands can sometimes be a bit of a firey issue for some, but here's my question.

I just moved from Sothern California to Maine. And, before winter arrives to test my batteries, I would like to get a good set in. I know that I should get the highest cold crank amps possible, but so far, the best I've seen are 850's. (and those who I've spoken with, recomended getting batteries in the neighborhood of 900-1,000 cca's)

So, what's everybody running?

mike
 

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I'm running Duralast Golds but that's only because they came in the truck and haven't needed replacing yet. No complaints about them though. My personal choice is Interstate. Always gotten good service out of them. I've had a few Optimas but it seems in the more recent years their quality is all over the board and it's hit or miss if you'll get a good one.

One thing to think about the AutoZone, Advance, OReillys, NAPA and Wal Mart brand batteries is there's always a store close by to warranty them out if the need arises.

The batteries currently in my truck are 1000cca.

Make sure you get a block heater if you don't already have one and make sure you're glow plug system is in tip top shape. If it isn't youll find out VERY quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I do have an engine block heater, and I know how to use it. I don't know if I have any GP's out, but I'm going to go to Autozone today, so I'll utilize a code reader. (as the Ca. trucks are supposed to throw a code if any GP's go out).

As for the batteries that are in my truck, I have no idea what they are. The CCA's are not listed, nor are the standard ca's. The only thing that's easily visible, is the replacement date, which is in 2009. (no month)

I looked at the Duralast Gold's, but their CCA's (at least in Ca.), were only 750. (standard/ warm crank amps were 1,000) But looking at the website, the Duralast Gold's for my truck are 875 CCA's.

mike
 

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Get Interstate, they are great batteries, and they have a 2 year free replacement, and 84 month pro-rate after that. And Interstate dealers are all over the place. Very easy to find. You also won't get issues for return/replacement. If it tests bad, it gets replaced no questions. I work in an Oil Change facility and when an Interstate battery tests bad and is under warranty, it is replaced no questions, the only thing about cost is if it is past the 2 year replacement time. Then we do the pro-rate based on the sale date of the battery. Just be sure to always keep the receipt for the batteries in the truck/vehicle at all times. Also, it is best to replace both batteries in these trucks at the same time.

Also, the Duralast batteries are often rebuild batteries, and we replace ALOT of them in my store, and they aren't all that old. I have only had to replace 1 battery before the 2 years was up and that was within the last month of the warranty. most interstate batteries that I have had to replace were at least 4 years old.
 

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Duralast Gold here. Big Interstates are good too. Rumor is (unverified by me) that they're both made by the same manufacturer.
 

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if you really want the best, go with DieHard Platinum. They are Odyssey Batteries in a DieHard case. They are 930 CCA, but also are designed to deep discharge like a deep cycle battery.

48 month full replacement warranty and then pro rated to 100 months a lil pricey at $189 a piece, but with batteries you really get what you pay for. I have two odyssey's on their way for my truck.....employee discounts are a wonderful thing

Im not just trying to promote my company...these are some kick *** batteries
 

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The Interstates were in it when I got the truck. No issues so far. I've had fair luck with them in the past. But where you are now is a whole different ball game. I would probably go with a local recommendation.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm in Alfred, Me. (about 40 min north of Portsmouth, Nh).

As for local recomendations........well, they've been few and far between. Everybody just recomends whatever batteries they carry. Autozone recomends the Duralast Golds (875 cca's), Napa says to use theirs (880 cca's). And so on.

Beyond that, there's been no help at all. That's why I asked here. I know there are folks on here, who live in cold climate's as well, and I figure you'd know what kind of batteries would have enough where it counts, to get our beloved PSD's started when the mercury falls.

The Die Hard Platinum's sound good with 930 cca's. I will be replacing both batteries at the same time, and I know that you get what you pay for. (and I'm not looking to cut any corners when it comes to batteries).

Thanks for all the info and feedback.

mike
 

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another selling point for the DieHards is that they claim them to not have catastrophic failure like most batteries suffer. They say you will start to notice them cranking slower, and then its time to replace em
 

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Know this thread is kind of old, but...

IMO, Deka batteries are the best. Deka, by Penn State. I've tried many, and have had the best luck with their batteries. Incidentally, some of the batteries that O'Reilly sells are made by Penn State, although they have the O'Reilly brand stuck on them. Deka is Penn State's brand name, and they can be found at battery shops.

I have Dekas in my powerstroke, as well as in my 92 F150 with a Cummins 4BT turbodiesel.

My .02....
 

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Get Interstate, they are great batteries, and they have a 2 year free replacement, and 84 month pro-rate after that. And Interstate dealers are all over the place. Very easy to find. You also won't get issues for return/replacement. If it tests bad, it gets replaced no questions. I work in an Oil Change facility and when an Interstate battery tests bad and is under warranty, it is replaced no questions

Quick question for you about this -- if I bought a new Interstate battery in December 2007 and was replaced in August 2008 because it went bad, does my 2 year warranty apply to the 2008 battery or the 2007 battery?

Thanks,
Snake
 

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Ok, I know that battery brands can sometimes be a bit of a firey issue for some, but here's my question.

I just moved from Sothern California to Maine. And, before winter arrives to test my batteries, I would like to get a good set in. I know that I should get the highest cold crank amps possible, but so far, the best I've seen are 850's. (and those who I've spoken with, recomended getting batteries in the neighborhood of 900-1,000 cca's)

So, what's everybody running?

mike
No....you DONT need the highest CCA possible. That is a farce. The manufacturer(Ford) has already addressed the CCA issue adequately by equipping the truck with two batteries. Stock batteries on a 2007 are 750 CCA ,yielding a total of
1500 CCA. As the truck COULD start with one battery,the engine does not need 1500 or 2000 CCA's to start. What is needed is two QUALITY batteries.
Why are two batteries installed you may ask? Heat buildup during an extended cranking session will warp the lead plates on a single battery,shorting the cells out .(This is the reason for two). Halving the current on the batteries during extended cranking, will greatly reduce the battery plate temperatures.
Quality considerations: Ive got a 1000 CCA battery from Walmarts in my boat. It is substantially smaller than the batteries in my F250.To accomplish this with a smaller size, they have done one of two things (1) crammed more lead plates in with a closer spacing OR (2) made the lead surface pourous to generate more current. I will pass on both of these options. I want good solid lead plates with adequate spacing between the plates for LONG life.
Battery life is prematurely ended (most commonly) (1)when the battery plates flake off and shorts the cell at the bottom (2) the plates warp (3) the plates develop a sulfide coating from sitting uncharged for too long of a period (4) a cell goes dry(current marketing practices discourage refilling cells by placing" Maintenance Free "lableing on perfectly fillable batteries)
Performance considerations: Maximum power transfer (thevenin's theorum of maximum power transfer)
occurs when the source resistance equals the load resistance[(not unlike putting 4 ohm speakers on a 4 ohm stereo)

Thevenin's Theorem : DC NETWORK ANALYSIS (sorry...just had to inject a little
of my electrical engineering background.)

Illusion number one WE ARE NEVER GOING TO MATCH THE TEST RESISTANCE THAT MANUFACTURERS USE TO TEST THEIR BATTERIES .
THe second ILLUSION: THE TEST RESISTANCE's used by manufacturers is NOT THE SAME throughout the industry. It is extremely unlikely you will ever reach the listed CCA's on a battery and the added current of using a higher CCA rated battery(over Ford specs) will be minimal ......especially since our trucks are equipped with two batteries far exceeding what is needed to crank it over.
Some ,if not all Walmart batteries are made by Excide. A few years from now....thats probably what I will be purchasing.

Gel batteries....kinda pricey and I myself have not been able to find a store carrying replacement gel. I can get at least five years out off lead acid by topping off the acid...in the computer business 3 yrs is the expected life for gel batteries...Maybe optima's last longer..i dunno.
 

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I just go with what you can afford autozone ones i bought had 3 year bring in and replace for free. then the payment program.

I had interstate there were 3 years old and died!
were in the truck when i bought it. didnt like the price or the quailty
 

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The dealer put 2 new motorcraft replacement batteries in my truck when I bought it. They work awesome in 0 degree temps we have had here so far.
One thing I have noticed, after my two brothers and I went through a "huge stereo" phase in high school, is this. Once you let a battery run down completely, say leaving your lights on, the battery loses half its power potential. MEaning even if you charge it all the way up again with a trickle charger, it will only still have about half the cranking time left in it anymore. If you let it drain again, it will be down to a 1/4 of what is was originally. You just cannot let a battery drain all the way down. I went through hell trying to start my old 6.2 diesel in the winter and never had a set of batteries last more than a couple months in the winter. That sucker started hard when it was cold. To remedy the problem, I got a set of GM battery heater blankets on ebay and the problem was almost solved. You just plug them in at night when it gets cold and they stay warm to the touch.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Some great info here. Well, here's the end of my story. Yesterday, my batteries crapped out. I had driven the truck 2 days prior. There was a little bit of lag in the starter, but it still fired up okay. Yesterday morning, not so much. The batteries were 3 1/2 years old, and of a make I, nor anyone I talked to, had ever heard of. (American Eagle) No ca's, or cca's listed. Just "maintenance free" w/ a little indicator to "show" if it's still good. Goofy little thing still showed green with barely 10 V in it.

I ended up having to get a jump start in my driveway:doh: Anyways, the nearest battery retailer to me is Napa, so I got Napa's batteries. We'll see how it goes. Worst case is that they suck and crap out. But there's Napa's all over the place, so it should be easy to get it sorted out if that happens.

mike
 

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Some great info here. Well, here's the end of my story. Yesterday, my batteries crapped out. I had driven the truck 2 days prior. There was a little bit of lag in the starter, but it still fired up okay. Yesterday morning, not so much. The batteries were 3 1/2 years old, and of a make I, nor anyone I talked to, had ever heard of. (American Eagle) No ca's, or cca's listed. Just "maintenance free" w/ a little indicator to "show" if it's still good. Goofy little thing still showed green with barely 10 V in it.

I ended up having to get a jump start in my driveway:doh: Anyways, the nearest battery retailer to me is Napa, so I got Napa's batteries. We'll see how it goes. Worst case is that they suck and crap out. But there's Napa's all over the place, so it should be easy to get it sorted out if that happens.

mike
You probably had one battery with a dead cell from internal flaking. Imagine that youre stranded in the outback,or are offroading,and a passerby gives you a jump to get going again.......what do you do? Well, a cheap device is available at walmarts and most other auto parts stores that is technically called a hydrometer. It has 4-5 floating balls that enables you to read the specific gravity of each cell (many batteries still have removeable caps) With the engine still running and batteries somewhat charged....you then check each cell to find out which one is dead. The amount of balls floating will be substantially lower in the dead or dying cell.
When you have isolated which battery is the problem, remove the negative cable only from the suspect battery,leaving the live battery in place.(choose the negative cable because we have a negative ground system...if the neg cable touches the chassis while loose....NO big deal....if the positive cable touches the chassis,you will be electrically dead again)
The probability is pretty high that a single battery will start your truck IF
you allow it to run for 3-4 hours AND follow this simple method when starting it back up. Turn it on ,use the glow plugs properly, then crank for no longer than 20-30 seconds....if it did not start first time....wait 10 ot 15 minutes before trying again.(let the battery internals cool as well as the starter)
If youre in a jam...even using a cheepo car battery as the second battery will assist in keeping you from getting stranded again,as long as its "lead acid"
The challenge is knowing which battery is dead , draining the charged battery. The hydrometer will set you back maybe $1.50 at walmarts. Its also much less work than toteing both batteries in for testing.If your really feeling
"spendy" a digital volt meter will set you back about 10 bucks (china junk)
The operational voltage of lead acid batteries is 13.6 to 14.3 volts...(whether its a small truck,a motorcycle,a small boat or even a tractor)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
mrnecsteve, True, it was probably just one of my two batteries. But, I was already looking to replace them, which is why I started this thread a while ago. It just so happened that yesterday turned out to be "replacement" day.

I'm very farmiliar with hydrometers. I use them all the time in home brewing. (beer, wine, cider) The measured reading is different, but the concept is the same.

Either way, I've got 2 new batteries now. I'd like to upgrade my starter though. The one I have is fine, and spins the motor ok. But I want to upgrade to a gear reduction starter. They require less power, and spin the motor faster.

mike
 

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im tryign to find out whats wrong with my truck, batteries or starter getting weak. im going to have the batteries tested but dont know that i trust the auto stores. my starter cranks crazy slow about 40*F, glows and relay work fine, but cranks over fine at 50*+ or when the block heater is plugged in. if i forget, wehn it gets to 30*F and lower soon ill be in trouble...

in either case, i was looking into starters as well and in another forum in a google search, a bunch of people praised this starter. mentions of 500 rpm cold cranks, etc.

NEW Ford 7.3L Diesel Starter POWERSTROKE Truck 01 02 03 SND0355 17802: SND0355 --- DB Electrical Starter-Alternator

iirc, its about $100 less than the motorcraft replacement
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well, my first suspicion is that your batteries are getting weak, just like mine were. You could have them tested, but if they're weak, what's the point? Probably better off just getting a new set of batteries. I'd be willing to bet, a fresh set of batteries would spin your starter much better than the old ones.

As for replacement/ upgrade starters, the starter you posted a link to, is from what I've gathered, the best on the market. It's made by Denso, and it's got a 4 Kw rating. The gear reduction starters use less juice than the stock units, and spin the motor much faster, and much easier than the stock units.

The only thing that has me scratching my head is this. The starter has a gear that slides in, to turn the motor over. The "standard", is 12 teeth. The new 4 Kw Denso, has 13 teeth. Having not torn into mine yet, I'm wondering how a 13 tooth anything, could fit into the same slot, as a 12 tooth unit. (square peg in a round hole idea) Maybe I'm just thinking into it too much.:dunno: With this in mind, I've looked at the 3.6 Kw Denso starter, wich has a 12 tooth gear. It's a little cheaper than the 4 Kw, but it's still a gear reduction starter, so if nothing else, it should still spin the motor faster, and use less juice.

mike
 
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