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Hello everyone. Newbie here 2/15/20. We just purchased a 2000 DRWRWD, Crew Cab, 8’ Bed, 4:10. This truck is bone stock and never been chipped. One owner, meticulous records (all good ) just turn 137K miles. We are now shopping for a 5th wheel camper. I understand all the weight calculations. My question is, what is the max RV weight that we can pull down the interstate with the cruise control set on 65 and set back and enjoy the ride ? Knowing that pulling the one also has a high wind resistance that must be considered. Thanks in advance.
 

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I recommend you repost this in the 7.3 section. Each group is a little different.

The 6.0 I have, I would recommend a Two Axle RV. My RV weighs in at 12k loaded, but my towing weights allow about 16k. I like going with about 2/3ds the rated weight. MY rule, because noone else use's the same. Recently parked at an RV Campground and the same year F250 next towed 20k, 4k over the limit without a problem, but had some serious mods done to the truck. So his was about 4/3ds rated weighting, which if he got in an accident which was investigated, it would not be in his favor. With my 2/3 GVRW rating, I'm also confident I'm not exceeding the Rear Axle rating.

As I'm towing 12k, I can cruise at 65 MPH all day long, until I go up steep, extended grades, then I need to back down to 50 MPH to avoid exceeding 1300 EGTs. Had I not installed an EGT gauge, I would have no indication the EGTs were getting ready to harm my truck. With this, there's things that can be done to bring EGTs down, but I haven't done those yet. Turbo back straight pipe is one, but Emissions inspections make this illegal, and meth injection can work, but don't know how many extra MPH on that same hill this will give me. I've modded my exhaust gas manifold to get lower EGTs, but surprise, surprise the manufacturer's "Up to 100° EGTs lower," did not work for me. I'm avoiding other up to ratings like larger exhaust with the CAT and muffler still installed and an improved turbo and fuel injectors.

Each 6.0 owner is a little different, and I'm sure each 7.3 owner is also.
 

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Is the 7.3 all stock or do you plan on doing some performance upgrades? People tow 20K with 7.3 duallys and don't have any problems but keep in mind a 2000 model 7.3 only had 235hp from the factory so you will slow down quite a bit on hills with that much weight. 13-16K is a pretty safe weight. If it's an automatic a bigger transmission cooler is important if your towing that much weight, along with a transmission temp gauge, boost and egg gauges are a good idea also. If you want more power a 4" exhaust, 6637 air filter, billet compressor wheel and a PHP Hydra chip will make a big improvement without being too much stress on the engine or rest of the drivetrain.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
00t444e. Thanks. I want to keep it stock for as long as possible. I am planning on going to a 4” exhaust and putting a 6.0L transmission cooler in it.
 

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1st - Congrats on the truck! I've always liked the way duallys looked, but haven't really justified having one other than just wanting one. My '01 (see links to my Garage in my signature) is essentially the same - I just don't have the training wheels. :hehe: I agree with @00t444e about gauges. If you're going to pulling 13-14k or more, they will definitely give you the additional info you need to keep your truck safe. Ex: EGTs can go up to 1200° sustained and not mess things up. Exceeding that for a short time is okay. The gauge would tell you if you need to throttle back to keep temps down especially on grades. Adding a 31-row 6.0L trans cooler was one of the best things I've done to my truck. The stock 9-row just wouldn't keep thing cool enough. Before the cooler, I would peg the 250° trans temp guage. That much heat effects the trans fluid a lot faster. After the cooler swap, same grades, my temps wouldn't exceed 185-190°. These temps are important, especially on a stock rig.

I have a 4" turbo back exhaust, a K&N CAI & I run a Hypertech programmer. Gives it a bit more uumph while towing my 12k 5th wheel, but certainly doesn't turn it into a speed demon.

Nothing wrong with staying stock @ all - just be aware of the effects of adding tonnage.
 

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BTW - I merged your two threads into here. We like to keep onre thread per topic. Also cleaned it up so there aren't any "double" posts.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks @ SuperCrutyPS I have given some thought to a different turbo. Maybe down the road. Also thought about increasing fuel flow.
 

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Pulling that heavy with a dually a stock sized tires will help a lot being that it has 4:10 gearing. Nearly all single rear wheel trucks came with 3:73's.

As what most have said, get a good intake and exhaust. An engine is an air pump, so the easier you make it for the air to go enter and exit, the more efficient it will run.

I tow 12k very often with my truck and I also have alot of mods done to it. At the very least, I would get an EGT probe, but since you are going to be traveling alot I'd recommend the Edge Insight CTS2 with EGT kit. This way you can monitor pretty much everything and read codes all in one.

A chip won't hurt anything, especially a 2000 model year. They are IMO the 99.5-00 are the best 7.3 years to own.

Here are some links for the stuff I mentioned and if you have any questions, give me a call tomorrow 419-980-5371

https://cncfab.us/i-30498022-power-hungry-performance-7-3l-hydra-chip-php-hydra.html

https://cncfab.us/i-30497967-sb-filters-99-03-7-3l-cold-air-intake-kit-sbf-75-5062.html

https://cncfab.us/i-30497556-afe-power-magnum-flow-pro-dry-s-air-filter-21-90058.html

Or you can do a DIY intake with this filter ^^^

https://cncfab.us/i-30497709-edge-products-insight-cts2-monitor-1996-newer-obdii-enabled-vehicle-84130.html

https://cncfab.us/i-30497705-edge-products-eas-starter-kit-w-15in-egt-cable-for-cs-cts-cs2-cts2-expandable-98620.html

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I had basically the same truck as you about 18 months ago. Almost bone stock at the time. It would struggle to pull 16,500 and god forbid you wanted to go up any hills. At 6%, 3rd gear was hard to keep any speed up. School busses were passing me. Anything steeper and 2nd gear was all I could do. All this to say, had I pulled lower weight, then 65 on cruise wouldn’t be a problem, but it’s gonna be closer to 10-12k with a stock setup. I suspect even that will not be fun.
 

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I had basically the same truck as you about 18 months ago. Almost bone stock at the time. It would struggle to pull 16,500 and god forbid you wanted to go up any hills. At 6%, 3rd gear was hard to keep any speed up. School busses were passing me. Anything steeper and 2nd gear was all I could do. All this to say, had I pulled lower weight, then 65 on cruise wouldn’t be a problem, but it’s gonna be closer to 10-12k with a stock setup. I suspect even that will not be fun.
Are you sure you didn't have a boost leak or any other problems when that was happening? I have seen a bone stock 7.3 maintain 70 mph towing a 12K 35 foot 5th wheel in the hills.
 

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Are you sure you didn't have a boost leak or any other problems when that was happening? I have seen a bone stock 7.3 maintain 70 mph towing a 12K 35 foot 5th wheel in the hills.
All I can say is this:

*My* truck at about 8000 lbs pulling a 16,500lb fifth wheel would not go about 40 mph up a 6+% grade that was over about 5 miles.

Hence the reason I invested in it. Boost leak? probably - but I can also say this: Even *after* all my additions - I am pushing 28+ lbs now - and I *still* don't go 70 mph up those hills.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks everyone. I thought that 10 to 12K would be max. We’ll just shop for 10 to 11K. Then simple mods should do the trick and get us down the road nicely.
 

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Interesting! I have a Early 99 7.3 4x4 Auto trans, Crew Cab, SWB, SB. 6.0 trans cooler, 6637, AD injectors, 17 degree HPOP, no cat, AT tires up a size. 3.73 gears, stock everything else. Exhaust stock. 320k on the clock. 5er is 12k loaded. Then add wood in the bed, coolers, wife and 4 large dogs, I cruise at 60-65 mph even in the mo hills. Hit some serious hills in TN but didnt slow to 55 after I killed the overdrive. Seriously now. Been doing this for at least a decade.
 

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Im not sure how a 4:10 is vs a 3:73 but i had a 2002 that had 3:73 and it did not like towing below 2K RPM. Im guessing the 4:10 would be around 2K RPM at 65 MPH so I think that would be a fine speed to expect on flat ground. It sounds like the 2000 has slightly less power so maybe 2100-2200 is the sweet spot on that. If you get a strong head wind you will most likely have to downshift from my experience. Anymore then a slight grade and a mild head wind it will have to downshift to maintain speed. Going up a good grade everyone will pass you but you will make it if you upgrade the trans cooler. I had multiple times where i was pulling a 5% ish grade and had to pull on the shoulder cause the trans temp got too hot. (This was with the stock cooler) That was my experience at least. As others have said a bigger trans cooler is a must for towing that weight and gages would be worth the investment. My 5th wheel was 10500 empty for reference. All the info above was before i did all the stuff listed in my sig and the truck was stock.
 

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My E99 would downshift, out of overdrive, under 2000 rpm, on any hill prior to fixing boost leaks and injector replacement. Like the previous post/reply. It was slow going under 2000 rpms. Like she was struggling. And also, prior to the 6.0 cooler install, my trans temps were 200 on the highway but would skyrocket on a busy Blvd with lots of red lights after exiting the Interstate. Took forever to cool down. First and foremost, trans cooler. Can't stress that enough. Even with tires a size bigger I think I'm turning 2000 rpm at 65. Camping this weekend so I can post exactly what it's doing if needed. My stock turbo spools a little quicker or sooner than Late 99-03s. I'm wondering if my power band/sweet spot rpm is different or at lower rpms. If I really put the hammer down power seems to flatten out above 2600 rpm. Every truck is different. Trans cooler and sweet spots for towing. Sounds like I really need some gauges. I could be killing this engine with high EGTs and not knowing it
 

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I will throw in my 2 cents worth, first congrat's. I have a 03 CCDRW 7.3L with some basic mods, S&B intake, 6.0L transmission cooler, Edge SCT2 monitor with EGT kit, 4'' Summit Racing exhaust, the big upgrade was the KC turbo, and the PHP Hydra chip with their standard tunes. I tow a 10K 5th wheel, and with the mods I have done pulls great, now when you get into the mountains and steep grades (6-8%) you will not be running 65-70mph you will need to drop down the gearing and watch the EGT's, you can pull these grades but you have to be smart about it, it's not a race like some people think it is. Also remember you have to go down grades also, this is where you need to be really smart and cautious, use lower gears, and use the "stabbing" brake method, it's a trucker thing, where you stab the brakes really hard then let off, do not ride the brakes. That is one downside to having a older truck, no modern exhaust or engine brake.
 

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I have a similar truck as you. I regularly tow a 40' 5th wheel toyed hauler. Toy inside is a '66 Bronco. All dressed up, it weighs in around 19K (1300 for trailer and 6K for the Bronco). Now leave all the flames at the curb please. I know I'm towing heavy that why I replaced a 12 valve Cummins with the 7.3. I've doing this since 2007. The stock turbo will work better with a "wild weasel" compressor wheel. Better air filter system has it's plus's and minus's. Bottom line here is more air in will also let more dirt in. I also have a 4" exhaust from the turbo back. Plus here is less restriction means less exhaust temps. The minus is that it's a bear to get that extra 1" of pipe in place.
IMHOP, two things you MUST do before towing is to upgrade the trans cooler to the MUCH larger 6.0 cooler. It has 31 passes vs the oem stock 7.3 that has only 13 passes (cooler tubes). I understand from a friend who works at a Ford dealer that there is no longer any new units available so find a used one and clean it out with a couple cans of brake spray. Second and equally important is an exhaust temp gauge. Not to hard to install and while towing that should be the gauge you watch. When it heads over 1200* first down shift from overdrive to 3rd. That'll let the engine rpms come up and less EGTs (exhaust gas temp). If you still running high EGTs the slow down. Without the EGT gauge you can't tell what the exhaust temp is. They say that the trans is the weak spot in the 7.3. Mine was fine, problem was the torque converter friction plates stated dissolving and let clutch material into all parts of the trans. John Woods in Holtville, Calif builds killer trans (johnwoodsautomotive.com) He's a great guy with a LOT of professionalism. Once he let me park my truck and trailer inside his fenced in lot over the weekend after losing a injector harness. We stayed in it over that weekend.
One last thing that I recommend and also do is to carry a spare fuel filter. One load of garbage fuel and you are along the side of the road.
 

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Similar, but I have an SRW

I have a stock E99 (3/98 build) SRW, CC, long bed, manual transmission. My truck weighed in about 7500 pounds, fifth wheel about 11k. I've put in gauges, and put in the big can air filter. My truck struggled going up the hills around my place, which I don't think it should have. Truck builds boost, but doesn't seem to spin up where I think it would be with that kind of a load. Maybe 8-10 psi.

Running empty, my boost stays low most of the time. If I push it, I might be able to get it to 17 WOT, but not consistent.

That sound normal to you guys?
 

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I have a stock E99 (3/98 build) SRW, CC, long bed, manual transmission. My truck weighed in about 7500 pounds, fifth wheel about 11k. I've put in gauges, and put in the big can air filter. My truck struggled going up the hills around my place, which I don't think it should have. Truck builds boost, but doesn't seem to spin up where I think it would be with that kind of a load. Maybe 8-10 psi.

Running empty, my boost stays low most of the time. If I push it, I might be able to get it to 17 WOT, but not consistent.

That sound normal to you guys?
Sounds like a boost leak, under load going uphill you should be able to hit 17-20 psi.
 
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