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Before you throw the IDM under the bus,

Check internal and external harness at the valve cover extremely thoroughly.. Pull the jackets back and make sure the wires are in good shape and the plugs are good. Check the continuity at the harness for the valve cover and back to the IDM with a meter not a light, consider the harness a fail if you have more than about .02 ohms. The valve cover harness from outside should read less than 3 ohms for the injectors.

Yes the IDM does fail, however it is more often the gasket and harness under the valve cover or the external plug back a few inches. Remember to wiggle everything when checking.
 

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Because of where it's located (the dr side wiper pushes water down the cowling and Over it), and the Vent hole you show is missing the covering, I would have to think that you most certainly would have had water going inside :(

Every rebuilt IDM I've seen has had that, problematic, vent completely sealed over...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I checked and wiggled and rechecked the wire looms and valve cover connections. I’ve been chasing this intermittent issue for over a year. When it’s dry, everything is great. The minute I hit the wipers or a puddle things get stupid. I opened the IDM vent because I saw the corrosion on one side. Didn’t hear any water sloshing since it was 5* in the garage. Very little moisture when it thawed out. The vent had RTV in it, but there was corrosion all the way around the hole on the RTV. First IDM failed at 12 years. This one is 11.
 

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1999 F250 7.3L Crew Cab
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I checked and wiggled and rechecked the wire looms and valve cover connections. I’ve been chasing this intermittent issue for over a year. When it’s dry, everything is great. The minute I hit the wipers or a puddle things get stupid. I opened the IDM vent because I saw the corrosion on one side. Didn’t hear any water sloshing since it was 5* in the garage. Very little moisture when it thawed out. The vent had RTV in it, but there was corrosion all the way around the hole on the RTV. First IDM failed at 12 years. This one is 11.
Have you read up on the ferrite bead fix yet? What cps (crank position sensor) do you have in the truck? The housing color is kinda good indicator, colors are grey blue and black. If unknown I'd recommend getting one
 

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1999 F250 7.3L Crew Cab
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It presently has a black cps that was good when changed to the gray one. Does the same thing with the two black and gray that I have. And only running on the drivers side cylinders.
Check the hot wire see if you get continuity from the plug on drivers valve cover to harness plug pass side. It's the middle wire on the uvch
 
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