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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Folks
I need to purchase and installed some back up lights (Windows are tinted so roll windows down at night, However when you youngsters get old you will know what I am talking about) any ,Ideas, Advice, Pictures. Thought about Puck Lights but want it to look OEM vs Mad Max. Ideal would be to mount in Bumper, but I am not much on me cutting (and not messing up) the bumper. Saw one truck with lights mounted on the receiver hitch but could not catch up in traffic. Tried LEDs in My F150 and they are ok. Has anyone tried thLumenex Reverse Light Kits
 

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You said you tried LED’s but they were not enough. The Lumex you linked are also LED’s so I would not think they would work for you.
I recently swapped out mine for LED’s I bought from Amazon for $17 for the pair and they are definitely brighter and happy with them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Old guy here. Maybe not what you want, but for 20 years now, I've been using fog / reverse lights to augment the reverse lighting. I'm still using the halogen that I installed long ago. LEDs would allow for a lower amp draw. Anyway, I'll show you what I did.

I used a lower profile version; in some cases, you can find ones made specifically for reverse lights. The picture shows the fog lamps, but later I did replace them with "reverse lamps", which have a slightly wider spread. I used the outer, non-stressed area of the tow hitch, drilling the holes. The relay for these was placed into the tail light cavity, easily accessed by removing two screws (my year). Power for the relay came from the 7-pin trailer battery charge lead at the rear bumper, and the positive side trigger came from the reverse light wire, splicing into it just behind the connector. The ground for the relay went to the cab and a switch so I could interrupt the ground if I did not want the lamps on. Since 2001, I've never turned them off.

I liked them so much, I installed Mad Max lamps on my trailer since the 7-pin connector has a circuit for trailer reverse lights. The images are mostly from my pictorial when I installed them in my 2001 F-250 and later transferred them to my 2003 F-350.


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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Old guy here. Maybe not what you want, but for 20 years now, I've been using fog / reverse lights to augment the reverse lighting. I'm still using the halogen that I installed long ago. LEDs would allow for a lower amp draw. Anyway, I'll show you what I did.

I used a lower profile version; in some cases, you can find ones made specifically for reverse lights. The picture shows the fog lamps, but later I did replace them with "reverse lamps", which have a slightly wider spread. I used the outer, non-stressed area of the tow hitch, drilling the holes. The relay for these was placed into the tail light cavity, easily accessed by removing two screws (my year). Power for the relay came from the 7-pin trailer battery charge lead at the rear bumper, and the positive side trigger came from the reverse light wire, splicing into it just behind the connector. The ground for the relay went to the cab and a switch so I could interrupt the ground if I did not want the lamps on. Since 2001, I've never turned them off.

I liked them so much, I installed Mad Max lamps on my trailer since the 7-pin connector has a circuit for trailer reverse lights. The images are mostly from my pictorial when I installed them in my 2001 F-250 and later transferred them to my 2003 F-350.


View attachment 787716 View attachment 787717 View attachment 787718 View attachment 787719 View attachment 787720 View attachment 787721
Jack this is what I had in mind to do.I wish I still had my old Perlux "Fog" lights with aircraft landing beams. Something small like you used would be perfect.
The Lumex ones might do the job,but are spendy,although same cost as a good set of lights.Although I recently received another set of OEM tail lights and a set of another brand that the backup bulb area is more square like a cube than how OEM clear part wraps around to outside of bed.These might be brighter as light might be more consitratied (more projected backwards)If I am able to still move after changing tranny fluid, I might try it out .Will post results and Pictures.

Thanks.....Popi
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
we have vendors on here that sell super bright LED replacement reverse lamps
they work well for me but I have a tinted rear power slider and usually open it when backing in critical situations
or better yet get a back up camera
I, like you also have the tinted power rear slide window ,unfortunately I have a Top on the truck with dark tinted windows. I will check out the vendors and see what they have.
 

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I have a long 50+ year history of auxiliary lighting. I know Perlux well.

During that time, one source I've used has been Rally Lights. They range everything, and the index on the left side can help. You'll have to hunt, but the majority will be spendy.


Hella's 450 series might work for you.
 

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2001 F350 7.3L, CrewCab, Long bed, 4x4
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I added the ones under the bumper (mounted to the hitchbar).
Tire Wheel Vehicle registration plate Vehicle Car

They are 1x6 LED Floodlights + I put Superbright LED bulbs in the tail light housings. Plenty of light for me. One, they light behind the truck for me to see to back up @ night - Two, they light behind the truck so there is no mistaking I'm backing up from a parking space when people are driving down that lane. Made a BIG difference from when I bought the truck when I couldn't see that well behind the truck to when I installed them.

EDIT (To include information):
1x6 LED Flood light bar - Similar to these (mine are older as well) - 1x6 LED Flood light bar
In housing LED Backup bulbs: Superbright 3156 LED Bulbs
 

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2001 F350 7.3L, CrewCab, Long bed, 4x4
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I added the ones under the bumper (mounted to the hitchbar).
View attachment 787763
They are 1x6 LED Floodlights + I put Superbright LED bulbs in the tail light housings. Plenty of light for me. One, they light behind the truck for me to see to back up @ night - Two, they light behind the truck so there is no mistaking I'm backing up from a parking space when people are driving down that lane. Made a BIG difference from when I bought the truck when I couldn't see that well behind the truck to when I installed them.

EDIT (To include information):
1x6 LED Flood light bar - Similar to these (mine are older as well) - 1x6 LED Flood light bar
In housing LED Backup bulbs: Superbright 3156 LED Bulbs
Thanks, looks like what I am looking for . with tinted windows and smoked mirrors ( of course put the windows down need all the light i can get.) as for the Bright LED Bulbs i have something similar on my F150 From Advance auto.They work well but they are like a flood instead of spot. Did you run a dedicated wire to them or tap into backup light wire? also i see that these come with different wattage. Think I am going to get thesehttps://a.co/d/hDjncix.
Dont know if i want to hook up via Backup light switch like Jack did his or use my remaining 10amp on upfitter switch
These are inexpensive but seem to do what i need .
 

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I wanted the aux lamps to mostly be automatic, and certainly not the temptation to use them if someone was following too close. That would get me a ticket. Also, at one time our state "safety" inspection (we no longer have) would have failed the truck if not switchable.
 
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The other thing I probably should have noted is that I never mentioned this advantage in the notes on the Facebook page for this.

The wattage/amp draw of the lamps will size the power wire. That's a long run to the back of a Supercab long bed, so it would necessitate a wire increase due to the length. The wires can be reasonable by grabbing the power and signal at the rear. The ground wire I used for the relay in the taillight cavity is an 18ga solid wire, which could probably be less than that. A solid wire does not drape as much for the long path, and as it is a ground wire, if there ever is a short, it will turn on the aux reverse lights when the factory reverse lights are lit, but not create a short on the positive side.
 

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Thanks, looks like what I am looking for . with tinted windows and smoked mirrors ( of course put the windows down need all the light i can get.) as for the Bright LED Bulbs i have something similar on my F150 From Advance auto.They work well but they are like a flood instead of spot. Did you run a dedicated wire to them or tap into backup light wire? also i see that these come with different wattage. Think I am going to get thesehttps://a.co/d/hDjncix.
Dont know if i want to hook up via Backup light switch like Jack did his or use my remaining 10amp on upfitter switch
These are inexpensive but seem to do what i need .
Those look like they'll work. I chose Flood and turned them outward slightly so the light would spread out.
I ran mine through a relay. Ran a power wire from the driver's side battery to the relay in the back, tapped the BU wire as the trigger, outputs to the lights.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I wanted the aux lamps to mostly be automatic, and certainly not the temptation to use them if someone was following too close. That would get me a ticket. Also, at one time our state "safety" inspection (we no longer have) would have failed the truck if not switchable.
Capt Jack,
I just read this to Mimi ,And she informed me that is a smart Man because I know Mister Longjohn you would be doing the same thing ( or at least temptation would be overwhelming).I had a1/8 stainless steel plate that sat between the ICC bumper and the trailer floor with 6marker lights and two "backup lights" which switched with the switches in the drivers side box Then Boxes each had A 50'Reel Airline and 75"Extension Cord( Electric power from APU) at the back of my Utility Reefer. I had to show the DOT many,many times. Mounted on the front of the boxes i had forward-looking angled down and rear looking Side view Utility lights . Yeah spent 2.5 hours convincing Super trooper at the Scales before Exit Two on 295 north that I could not control them from the Cab . I made him remove his grimy boots before i would allow him in the Cab , so I then recieved a full level DOT Inspection. ( Sorry got off topic)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
The other thing I probably should have noted is that I never mentioned this advantage in the notes on the Facebook page for this.

The wattage/amp draw of the lamps will size the power wire. That's a long run to the back of a Supercab long bed, so it would necessitate a wire increase due to the length. The wires can be reasonable by grabbing the power and signal at the rear. The ground wire I used for the relay in the taillight cavity is an 18ga solid wire, which could probably be less than that. A solid wire does not drape as much for the long path, and as it is a ground wire, if there ever is a short, it will turn on the aux reverse lights when the factory reverse lights are lit, but not create a short on the positive side.
I am going to run a 12-10ga fused wire and 2paired 16 ga back for While you are in there run in Loom or Seal-Tite to a junction block and relay to power not only the Backup lights like yours Iam going to add these one one each side of the Third Taillight in the Shell/Topper / Out where Jokester is they call them A Canopy lolol . Of course the lights will be switched from just inside the Topper and also replace the AA battery powered Cargo light inside the Topper. These are what thinking about using. https://a.co/d/3O40n0U Thanks for the advice
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
I must be doing someting wrong can't get it to allow me to post Two Links. And these https://a.co/d/e7X55Tl
Edit: Perhaps I should have made clear the upper ones are for my dark drive way,down around the barn, Aux work lights. lighting up the Square dance floor .:rolleyes:
 
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