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I just discovered that there is a biodiesel station only about a mile from my house ! Wondering how safe this stuff is, should I only use a little for lubrication or should I go straight bio ? It's b99.
 

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In my opinion? No. I dont see the point in it. For one, the chemicals that go into biodiesel cant be all that good for the enviroment...Secondly its really not any cheaper than diesel...Thirdly the two people I know that have run it in their engines, (b100 I beleive) noticed a slight decrease in power, and in fuel economy. Here is a helpful link that lists pros and cons of it though :D
Auto Review: Pros and Cons of Biodiesel
 

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In my opinion? No. I dont see the point in it. For one, the chemicals that go into biodiesel cant be all that good for the enviroment...Secondly its really not any cheaper than diesel...Thirdly the two people I know that have run it in their engines, (b100 I beleive) noticed a slight decrease in power, and in fuel economy. Here is a helpful link that lists pros and cons of it though :D
Auto Review: Pros and Cons of Biodiesel

Someone got a bad batch of Bio? Biodiesel is known to have a lower energy content than dino, so I can accept that fact. It comes down more to cost analysis. How much cheaper is B99? if it covers the loss in fuel economy, and is cheaper than dino I would run it. I run it and every form of it. I may be more radical in my ways but this is the second truck that I have bought to run B100 and WVO exclusively.

The chemicals that go into biodiesel being toxic? You tell me what is bad for the environment because that article didnt say one word about what its made out of. Well I will tell you what its made of, (1)Waste Vegtable oil that was destined years ago to go to the landfill or sprayed on your dogs food. (2) Methanol, derived from natural gas. (3) Sodium Hydroxide, this one I will throw you a little bone here, but nothing more than a puppy could handle. Its a caustic chemical in raw form, but when combined in the biodiesel process it attaches to the glycerin molecules and becomes soap!! Which by the way is environmentally friendly, its biodegradable. What is the end product of refining fuel? Ohh thats right :hehe: its roofing/paving tar!!!! Good thing they found a use for it, or we would be showing in that sh$t by now.

Comes down to it if its cheaper and covers the price analysis then I would run it if you want.
 

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What year truck is it?

It doesn't really matter, but if your truck is still under warranty, I think they only allow you to run B20 in it before the warranty is void? Someone may correct me on this, but that is what I've read and heard. If you run B99 and have injector o-ring issues, you may be SOL on the warranty.

Just food for thought.
 

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Methyl Ester (biodiesel) will swell low grade rubber over time, so there is concern with certain O rings and hoses over time so I would have it in the back of your mind, but its still something that I am not overly concerned with. The O rings that would possibly have issues would be the ones in the quick connects on the fuel lines. The Injector O rings from what I know are silicone so they are not as affected.

Warranty, would be something in question, and is also subjective with the dealer. If its under warranty I would use caution for the fact that they may give you hassle about it.
 

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Well in my opinion, Its more worth your while to convert your truck to run on vegetable oil. I bought a kit from GreaseCar which is located 10 mintues from me. I have been running SVO in my truck for 5 months with great results. Same power, smoother running. It is much much cheaper, I pay about 2.50 a gallon, as i buy it from a pump prefiltered and everything. There are no negatives to using it at all, unless you dont filter it properly. In comparison, biodiesel around here runs close to 4.85, the exact same price as diesel.
 

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Using Bio-D is perfectly safe for your fuel system and you engine in general.
If you discover you need to go to the dealer for a warranty repair, its not likely they will ask you what fuel you are using unless your advertising with a huge window decal that says "This truck runs on French Fry Grease". And you can always top off with diesel and thin it down a bit on the way to the dealer.
It is expensive, yes but you are still cutting your dependance on imported oil when you purchase it. So that alone is enough for me. I use the vegiostroke but still have to buy a tank of diesel every 2500 miles or so and if i could buy bio-d in OK, i would but as of yet, there are no stations around here selling it.
Go for it.
 

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To add to that, Bio-d is an excellent solvent and will remove varnishes that may have accumulated in your tank and lines so when you begin using it, be prepared to change filters soon after...maybe within the first 500 - 1000 miles. And you may have to change again fairly soon after that depending on how dirty your tank was.
 

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Methyl Ester (biodiesel) will swell low grade rubber over time, so there is concern with certain O rings and hoses over time so I would have it in the back of your mind, but its still something that I am not overly concerned with. The O rings that would possibly have issues would be the ones in the quick connects on the fuel lines. The Injector O rings from what I know are silicone so they are not as affected.

Warranty, would be something in question, and is also subjective with the dealer. If its under warranty I would use caution for the fact that they may give you hassle about it.
Where are the quick disconnect fuel lines? I know where the quick disconnect HPOP lines are, I've had to deal with them, and when I changed a leaking fuel line on the top of my motor, it was not quick disc. I'm just curious, I didn't know we had any for the fuel lines on these trucks.
 

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not 100% sure but i tihnk they are down by the fuel pump on the frame rail, there is some kind of joint there with a clip hold it together.
 

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I think one of the connections on the fuel pump is, and probably on the top of the fuel tank, but I am not going to drop the tank to verify it. :hehe: But the thing about Bio is it doesnt cause catastraphic failure, you will know its coming, because the line will literally start to sweat like a *** eating a hotdog, but it takes a few years.
 

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Where are the quick disconnect fuel lines? I know where the quick disconnect HPOP lines are, I've had to deal with them, and when I changed a leaking fuel line on the top of my motor, it was not quick disc. I'm just curious, I didn't know we had any for the fuel lines on these trucks.
There are 2 on the top of the tank that feed the pump and one for the return. they are on the top of the tank and if you have very small hands and double jointed fingers and wrists, you may be able to get to them with out dropping the tank, but i really doubt it.


Then there is one on the fuel pump on the frame rail. If you are going to run bioD i would suggest doing the intank mods to add an extra filter. ITP sells a kit which I have installed and the filters are about 10 bucks rather then 30 for the onboard filter! also my truck sure crackles less and it MUCH quieter when cruzing on the freeway!

Guzzy has a good write up here
Welcome to guzzle's In-tank Hutch Mod Web Page
 

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To add to that, Bio-d is an excellent solvent and will remove varnishes that may have accumulated in your tank and lines so when you begin using it, be prepared to change filters soon after...maybe within the first 500 - 1000 miles. And you may have to change again fairly soon after that depending on how dirty your tank was.
I don't use B100 so I won't have the hassles of the solvent affect. I've been running B50 in an old marine Yanmar diesel without filter problems.
 

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Thanks AFBLUE and tubular031, I didn't realize there were any on these trucks, but I havent messed with the fuel system too much other than on top of the motor. I havent had to drop my tank YET, so I didn't know they were quick disc. Learn something on here everyday. This will come in handy when I drop the tank to figure out why my fuel gauge is still reading full! :doh:
 

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Wait till you see how the tank is shaped and the way the float is. No wonder it reads a 1/4 tank more when I park in my drive way!

After seeing how it is in there, the ITP kit is well worth the 110 I paid for it. I think they went up a little in price now. You can never filter the fuel too much! Also removing that lame return / mixing thing on the pickup is a pretty much must! Make sure that you get the tank as empty as you can to make it easier to lower. Once the tank was off I emptied the remaining 5 gal that was in there so putting the tank back on was very easy since it was real empty.

I think my hardest thing was putting the metal skid plate back on that protects the tank. That was a pain when you are lying on your back under the truck.

My truck sure is quieter when driving now. I think this mod should go into the must category.

I think one of the mods (marty?) should make a sticky called something like mods to make things better but not really to add power. I see people all the time post I got a truck now I want to make it faster with more power. I took the approach of make the truck happy, then make me happy. I think the ccv mod, DYI intake, HPoil cross over, in tank mod should all go into that category of making the truck happy. Maybe even a 6.0 cooler or a tru-cool should also go in there. Gauges are a thing that should probably go in there too. Next up for me is that fuel rail cross connect kit that dinofuel alternatives sells and a walker BTM or maybe a 4inch exhaust.
 

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Has anyone mixed WVO with B85? I am receiving a few drums of B85 and was wondering if anyone has tried mixing WVO with B85? I am thinking maybe I can get more from the B85 - using it to thin out the WVO. I don't know if this a NO-NO, I just had an idea and thought I would ask.

Thanks
 
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