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B 20 is finally available around here. I decided to give it a try the other day, and may I say I'm impressed. I was getting about 11 MPG over the Winter, which grew to around 14 MPG as the Summer blend started coming in.

Best guess from this first tank is showing about 16MPG. Smells better, runs smooth, looking like better mileage, the only complaint I have is my truck starts a little harder in the mornings. Of course, it's still getting into the 30s at night.

Will putting in some additive help with the startup?
 

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there is a reason why your engine is harder to start when cold with bio. bio requires a lot more heat to ignite vs dino. last i checked, dino requires about 125 degrees or more to ignite. bio requires about 300.
 

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we have it here in northern illinois but its about 7 cents more expensive then regular diesel. not why that is so that is why i pass it by.
 

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do you have to change anything on these trucks to run bio?
 

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we have it here in northern illinois but its about 7 cents more expensive then regular diesel. not why that is so that is why i pass it by.
Thats the exact reason why i dont buy it. b20 is 10 cents more then #2 at the moment around here. And last year it was more above #2 then that.

do you have to change anything on these trucks to run bio?
Nope:thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Price wise, it's the same price here. As far as changing anything over, no physical change necessary for the B20.

For me, the mileage is what drives my interest. Anytime I can pull 16 to 17 MPG in my F350 Dually, I'm happy.
 

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I run it for the lubricity but am currently running about a B5 mix. I buy B99.9 and mix it myself. Filled up yesterday and it was 50 degrees out. Tried to add my Bio and it was partially gelled so I held back. I had about 1.5 gals left in my 5 gal so I topped that up from the pump to see if it would fix the gelling. Haven't looked at it since but I took about a 130 mile trip after so it should have had plenty of time and agitation to mix.

I also got some filters that are for bio and intended for fuel pumps that filter to 1 micron at 25gpm. I am going to plumb in between my fuel tank and the pump. It's easier to change a spin on than the factory filters and cheaper too.
 

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Umm biodiesel has a higher ctane value then dino, but your splitting hairs at the 20% range. Regular diesel fuel addtives will work just fine with B20. Your cold starts are not because of the biodiesel.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Umm biodiesel has a higher ctane value then dino, but your splitting hairs at the 20% range. Regular diesel fuel addtives will work just fine with B20. Your cold starts are not because of the biodiesel.
Not sure what the problem would be then. The truck has been flawless through the winter without being plugged in. Haven't had hard starting until this tank of fuel.

Any ideas?:dunno:
 

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Bio starts a little harder in my 6.0 at 100%, at B20 it's basicly just a lubricity additive like diesel kleen. And I also saw someone say it was gelling at 50 degrees? My straight veg oil tank doesn't start to harden until around 45 degrees. Not sure why it would gel at 50 without the glycerin.
 

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I made two batches so far to see what my B100 gel point would be. It wouldn't gel in fridge so I put it in freezer and chilled to 25 degrees and it was still fluid. Then I got a phone call and forgot about it. Came back and it was a biosicle. Put it out on my porch in the sun and it turned back into fuel again!
 

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That sounds about right, I never heard of it gelling any higher than 35 degrees. Clean bio anyway.
 

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my truck starts easier on bio. I make my own biodiesel and have been running about a b80 blend then went up to b90 or b95. got down to 40 deg last nite and it started write up. even last summer it seemed to start alot easier with bio.
 

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Bio starts a little harder in my 6.0 at 100%, at B20 it's basicly just a lubricity additive like diesel kleen. And I also saw someone say it was gelling at 50 degrees? My straight veg oil tank doesn't start to harden until around 45 degrees. Not sure why it would gel at 50 without the glycerin.
Me either. I was shocked. the actual temp was 54 degrees. I tried pouring it into the fuel tank from my 5 gal can and got a little and the flow petered out. I took the spout off and stuck my funnel in the tank a when I pour it straight from the can it started coming out in clumps so I stopped. I don't suppose that would happen at a B20 mix but I thought the Bio was ok at least into the low 40's.

I'll tell you what tho. That tank of straight ULSD and my engine got noisey as can be. I dumped the can of bio that I had topped up into the tank with maybe 3 gals left in the tank an started it up and it was immediately way way quieter. No question that the bio works wonders for lubricity.
 

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Something's not right. The ASTM B100 I bought this winter didn't gel until the temperature was a degree or two of freezing and the snow was falling. 54 degrees F would have it gelled a good percentage of the year up here.

I've never seen any starting issues I could relate to biodiesel, but if the temperature is going to drop below freezing both my F250 and my wife's (diesel) Smart car get plugged in. There's quite a difference between the current draw of the block heaters in the two vehicles. :)
 

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Bio gelling at 54 may have been processed incorrectly, and didn't drop enough glycerin? :dunno:

Like I said, my Partially hydrogenated WVO doesn't go solid until around 45F
 

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Bio gelling at 54 may have been processed incorrectly, and didn't drop enough glycerin? :dunno:

Like I said, my Partially hydrogenated WVO doesn't go solid until around 45F

Its all based off of feedstock quality. Most of my biodiesel begins to cloud at 35-40F. It wont become solid till about 30F. Throw in a few % of diesel and your good to go. If you choose the kerosense route you can also do that. I have B100 my tank now and its aroudn 40F every night. It starts right up in the AM.
 
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