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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys I have a new font bumper coming for my '16 F250. It is set up for a Rigid RDS 40" light which is rated at 300 Watts. Rigid's website states the light pulls 21.74 amps. I believe the Aux 1 Upfitter is rated at 25 amps.
Will this be OK to wire the light right in to the switch, or would you advise also using the light's relay also to gain a little more safety margin?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So can I bypass the switch that is built in to the wiring harness and use the upfitter as the switch, or will that 25A limit always be the weak link in the chain?
 

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While the motor is running I see 14.1VDC. Hey crazy idea "hold my beer" thought...wire it up and send it. Worst case is you blow a fuse. which are a PITA to replace due to their size.
 

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So can I bypass the switch that is built in to the wiring harness and use the upfitter as the switch, or will that 25A limit always be the weak link in the chain?
You would wire the upfitter to supply 25A to your own harness relay that would then supply 30A to the light bar.

The up-fitter is already a relay using, fuse protected source of 25A power.

If you need more than 25A, use an aftermarket harness to connect to the battery and your LED bar (for example), then use the #3 or #4 up-fitter to power the aftermarket relay with 15A/10A power. This would allow you to use the OEM up-fitter and not need to wire an aftermarket switch into the cab.
 

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I had to double relay (adding one to the upfitters) on my @Lifetime LED Phantom bar which was over 200 watts.
 

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the Rigid kit has a relay and a switch in the harness correct?

if so you tie the up fitter wire to where the rigid switch located on the relay (activation/ON ) and remove the ridgid switch all together ,
then you run a ground wire and a fused positive from the battery to the relay

the 25 amp at 12 v is a worst case and you would likely be fine with a direct wire from the upfitter

I just like to use the relay's to keep the switching circuits un taxed
swapping a remote relay or fuse at the battery located fuse holder is easy

and you can add more light to the same up fitter if you're using remote relays
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OK I went ahead and called Rigid today and spoke to one of their tech guys. He said I should be fine to wire it directly without the harness and additional relay/fuse. Even he said that it would probably save me an hour on the install.

So I think I'll give that a try first, as like you guys said, the worst that will happen is I blow a fuse. If that happens, I'll go ahead and wire in the additional relay using the method listed above.

Thanks guys
 

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I don't know about what you guys think but the output wires for AUX 1 and 2 seem really small for 25 amps.... I'm contemplating running a dedicated circuit for my compressor and using the lower amp aux switches for a relay because of the wire size directly out of the relay. Cant fathom running a 10ft lead @ 21 amp draw out of these tiny 25 amp factory ford leads for AUX 1 and 2 with the same size wire they have out. Any opinions?
 

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I hear ya. It would be nice to able to sufficiently run directly off the factory wires especially when they have a switch and relay integrated into the circuit already (one would think thats what they are intended for)... the wire size they chose for the 25 amp circuits is very disappointing... You would think they would give you a lead that was big enough to safely handle 25 amps @ 3% voltage drop at least the length of the truck.... Im just going to run my own power source with a marine grade fuse block and cable and switch the source with aux 4. little more work and money but well worth the time to prevent failure.
 
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