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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello everyone, because i could not find a lot of info on installing a alarm/auto start I figured i would take pictures and see how it went. I will be installing a Clifford 590.2x Alarm On my 2006 F350 Amarillo.


I started out by taking every item out of the box, lol, that is a given.
Then i went and removed every wire i would not be using.

H1/1, H1/8, H1/9, h1/10(may go back and use this wire) H1/12, H2/1 H2/2 H2/3, H2/4, H2/5, H2/6, H2/7, H2/8, H2/10, H2/10, H2/11, H2/12, H2/13, H2/14, H2/15, H2/6.. Because this is my first auto start instill i just taped them out of the way..

I placed the srien on the driver side finder well,

Once i finished a dropped a screw that my truck ate. I noticed on the other side. and noticed there is a lot more room. If i could do it over, That is where i would place it.


Next I cleaned the window and placed the Control Center behind my Rear view mirror

I ran the wire by tucking it under the head liner, and down the driver side of the truck.


Next i removed the panel where the fues box is located. So the fun stuff could start. After i removed the panel, I noticed a pre drilled hole. And low and behold my Neutral safety swich fix, and was hiden out of view, and i could still access it. (Important! Neutral Safety switch must be plugged in and in the on position)



Next i looked for a place to put the brain. In the storage (umm dont know what it is called) I found out behind it, on the left side the box fit very nicely.


And now here comes the fun stuff. Next was the Door lock,3-pin connector.
I found this by using a light tester, and poking the wires, once grounded they locks unlocked or locked. showing me i had the right wires.
They are located where I found them easy to get at on the driver side of truck, on the bottom where the plastic step thing is at.
Blue wire to the Black/white (Side not, This is the smaller wire, there is a bigger black/white that is also in the group) The Green Wire goes to the White/Red wire.




That was the last easy part for me, Now its time to get into the bigger wire harnesses. H1/2 and H3/9H1/2 Red wire/h3/9 Red/black wire I connected to the left side of he fuse cluster, There is a power all the time wire with a nut and bolt. So i did not have to tap into any wires. (no pictures for that that will have to take one tommrrow.)

The H1/3 Brown Gets connected to the Red + wire coming off the Siren.

H1/4 ????????? Have not figured this one out...


H1/5 Black Is a ground. I found a nice place to put this. Along with. h2/18 black/white Neutral Safety Input. Look Right of the fues.



H1/11 White Is the Parking light Output. Said it goes to the brown wire at light switch harness. I used the brown wire on the dimer switch. It worked great.



H2/9 Violet/White. Tachometer Input For this one you need to remove the 4 bolts holding the fuse box. The wire is taped onto a larger wire harness. Pain the the but for me to find.

[URL=http://s1321.photobucket.com/albums/u550/Hightech23435/?action=view&current=DSCF2380_zps0d1efa3e.jpg]


H2/17 Brown Brake shutdown imput, It goes to a green Wire at your brake pedel.

Now the Scary and hard part. Remote Start, H3

H3/1 -- Pink -- (+) Ignition 1 input/output
H3/2 -- Red/White -- (+) Fused (30A) ignition 2 / flex relay input 87
H3/3 -- Orange -- (+) accessory output
H3/4 -- Violet -- (+) Starter output (car side of the starter kill)
H3/5 -- Green -- (+) Starter input ( key side of the starter kill)
H3/6 -- Red -- (+) Fused (30A) Ignition 1 input
H3/7 -- Pink/White -- (+) Ignition 2 / Flex Relay output
H3/8 -- Pink/Black -- (+) Flex relay input 87a key side (if required) of flex relay
H3/9 -- Red/Black -- (+) Fused (30A) Accessory/starter input
H3/10 -- NC -- No connection

H3/1 -- (Pink) Goes to Ignition Positive wire (+) Red/Light Green wire in the Ignition Switch Harness

H3/2 -- (Red/White) Goes to a constant 12v power sorce

H3/3 -- (orange) Is going to the Accessory Positive Wire (+) Red/Black wire in the Ignition Switch harness

H3/4 -- (Violet) I have cut the Dark green Starter positive wire. And connected It to the cut half leading away from steering wheel

H3/5 -- (Green) Connected to the Cut dark green wire still going into steering wheel

H3/6 -- (Red) Goes to a Constant 12v power source

H3/7 -- Is not used

H3/8 -- Not used, my key does not have the chip.

H3/9 -- (Red/Black) Goes to a Constant 12v power source

**UPDATE If you have been following this thread you know that I had problems, Most were from unclear directions. The above Auto start wire setup is correct Finally.**

 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
As Of now, I am still working on Doing the install. I am getting a 7flash Manual transmission model is enabled and not initalized.
And my lights do not flash when truck is armed. or disarmed. I could use some help, Once I have figured out my problems I will spell check, and list all wires i conected to.

Lol, Please help..

2005 Ford F350 Car Alarm Installation Guide

Battery Constant 12v+ Positive Wire (+): Yellow and Light Green/Purple
Battery Constant 12v+ Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness

Starter Positive Wire (+): Dark Green
Starter Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness

Ignition Positive Wire (+): White/Yellow Or Red/Light Green
Ignition Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness

Second Ignition Positive Wire (+): Red/Black
Second Ignition Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness

Accessory Positive Wire (+): Gray/Yellow
Accessory Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness

Second Accessory Positive Wire (+): Dark Blue/Light Green
Second Accessory Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness

Parking Light Positive Wire (+): Brown
Parking Light Positive Wire Location: At Headlight Switch

Power Door Lock Negative Wire (-): Vehicles without factory keyless entry are a type “C” door locking system, the pink/yellow is for lock and the pink/light green is for unlock both wires are found in either kick panel, you must use the drivers door switch for testing. If vehicle is equipped with factory keyless entry the door locks are a type “B” system, the lock is a white/red (-) and the unlock is a black/white (-) both wires are found at the VSM or in the drivers door harness between the door and the door jam. You may also need to connect up the gem wake up diagram if when you use the remote keyless entry and the door locks stop working after a 5 minute wait.
Power Door Lock Negative Wire Location: N/A

Power Door Unlock Negative Wire (-): Vehicles without factory keyless entry are a type “C” door locking system, the Pink/Yellow is for lock and the Pink/Light Green is for unlock both wires are found in either kick panel, you must use the drivers door switch for testing. If vehicle is equipped with factory keyless entry the door locks are a type “B” system, the lock is a white/red (-) and the unlock is a black/white (-) both wires are found at the VSM or in the drivers door harness between the door and the door jam. You may also need to connect up the gem wake up diagram if when you use the remote keyless entry and the door locks stop working after a 5 minute wait.
Power Door Unlock Negative Wire Location: N/A

Door Trigger Positive Wire (+): Black/Light Blue
Door Trigger Positive Wire Location: In Either Kick Panel


Horn Negative Wire (-): Dark Blue
Horn Negative Wire Location: At Steering Column Harness Or VSM. The VSM (vehicle security module) is located to the right of the gas pedal, just above the transmission hump and below the radio, it is not accessible from the radio opening.

Tachometer Wire Negative Wire (-): Any Wire That Is Note Red/Light Green. The diesel tach wire is a Green/White wire, located in a 5-pin harness held up with tape behind the parking brake release.
Tachometer Wire Negative Wire Location: At Ignition Coils

Wait For Start Light Wire: For wait to start light, do not use the wire in the vehicle, use the 5,10,15 or 20 second programmable wait to start timer on the remote starter.
Wait For Start Light Wire Location: N/A

Brake Light Positive Wire (+): Light Green
Brake Light Positive Wire Location: At Switch Above Brake Pedal

Factory Alarm Disarm Wire (-): N/A
Factory Alarm Disarm Wire Location: N/A

Factory Anti-Theft System: N/A
Factory Anti-Theft System Location: N/A
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I Am almost ready to update and Make this post look a lot better. Anyone know the trick to fix a Low tachometer signal?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Looks like i am going to need to pick up a Signal inverter. 5C3Z-17C304-AA is the ford part number i have found, Monday i will give them a call, and see if they have one in stock or if i need to order it. Sadly nothing more i can do today. My TACHOMETER INPUT Green/white wire Gives a volt reading of 1.75 when truck is off, 9.75 when truck is cranking, and 11.75 while running. If anyone chimes in and can offer any other ideas
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well no ford dealer in my area has 5c3z-17c304-aa in stock. Sunrise ford does not have it also. Anyone know of a place i can order one. Found a few on ebay but not in the usa. I would to like to not have to wait a week to finish this alarm :)


Sent from my iPhone where spell check hates me.
 

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Well no ford dealer in my area has 5c3z-17c304-aa in stock. Sunrise ford does not have it also. Anyone know of a place i can order one. Found a few on ebay but not in the usa. I would to like to not have to wait a week to finish this alarm :)


Sent from my iPhone where spell check hates me.
Did you try tousleyfordparts.com always seem to have everything in stock when I order?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I called sunrise they also did not have it, so i just called my local dealer and had it ordered. so when it comes in its just a 5min ride for me to go pick it up. now its a waiting game.
 

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Update. Part came intoday so hopefully ill be able to finish this install tonite when i get home.


Sent from my iPhone where spell check hates me.
Hope all goes well:thumb:
 

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Looks like i am going to need to pick up a Signal inverter. 5C3Z-17C304-AA is the ford part number i have found, Monday i will give them a call, and see if they have one in stock or if i need to order it. Sadly nothing more i can do today. My TACHOMETER INPUT Green/white wire Gives a volt reading of 1.75 when truck is off, 9.75 when truck is cranking, and 11.75 while running. If anyone chimes in and can offer any other ideas
Doesn't the Clifford have a low tach signal setting?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
In the directions i got i could not go to setting 4 which would of been the low tech setting. I dont have them in frount of me atm so i cant explain better. But in options 3 what ever section it is at mine only gave 3 settings. I tried all 3 and non worked. Hopefully tonite ill get off work with a little day light to finish the install. The part hooks up to the tech wire and to the 12v power supply. And a ground. And 4th wire goes to the alarm.

On a side note i also picked up a new radio. If anyone is looking to buy a 6 disk cd stock radio out of a 06 truck.


Sent from my iPhone where spell check hates me.
 

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In the directions i got i could not go to setting 4 which would of been the low tech setting. I dont have them in frount of me atm so i cant explain better. But in options 3 what ever section it is at mine only gave 3 settings. I tried all 3 and non worked. Hopefully tonite ill get off work with a little day light to finish the install. The part hooks up to the tech wire and to the 12v power supply. And a ground. And 4th wire goes to the alarm.

On a side note i also picked up a new radio. If anyone is looking to buy a 6 disk cd stock radio out of a 06 truck.


Sent from my iPhone where spell check hates me.
I'm interested in seeing how this turns out, please update when you get that part installed. Another option may be taking it to someone with one of those bitwriters to program it. It should be the same as the other DEI products; I know that when I was doing this for a living years back DEI had bought Clifford and Avital so the programmers may be the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I just find it funny ford makes a part to fix a problem but does not take the time to fix it. Ill have new pictures soon.


Sent from my iPhone where spell check hates me.

Update.. Still not auto starting, Started going through my wires Found one hooked up wrong, fixed that one. still not trying to start. Grrr, ran out of day light. friday when i get off work, I am going to check every wire twice. and try again. It will not kick my butt. lol, but my final write up should leave no doubt where each wire goes.

Pictures of the part..


 

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All these issues are exactly why I will never install an aftermarket alarm or remote start on any of my vehicles. Just wait til it's installed and you have other electrical problems later on down the road. It makes for a complete nightmare trying to repair them later on down the road. Almost to the point of just wanting to burn the thing to the ground and claim it on the insurance. LOL You'll get it I'm just ranting about personal experiences.
 

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All these issues are exactly why I will never install an aftermarket alarm or remote start on any of my vehicles. Just wait til it's installed and you have other electrical problems later on down the road. It makes for a complete nightmare trying to repair them later on down the road. Almost to the point of just wanting to burn the thing to the ground and claim it on the insurance. LOL You'll get it I'm just ranting about personal experiences.
Done correctly, and with quality components, it's never an issue. I've had remote starts in many vehicles and just installed another in my truck today. I think a lot of the problems come from poor installations, which could happen with anything. Of course, I used to do this for a living, so it comes a little easier, but if you take your time and plan it out, almost anyone can install one correctly. It's all about the details....:beer:
 

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OP, what exactly happens when you try to remote start right now? Does it try to crank?

Did you complete the tach programming?

The black/white neutral safety, is that hooked up to a ground?

I just put a Python 513 in my 03 today and everything worked out fine. I used the tach wire specified behind the e-brake release. If you measure this wire, use your voltmeter set to AC voltage. You should have AC voltage while cranking and while running. Also it will rise when you give it gas.

Another thing I always do to make sure everything is going to be ok is basically hotwire the ignition wires manually. This eliminates any possibility of error with missing or incorrectly powered ignition circuits. You are basically just simulating what the remote start will do. Also a good time to check and make sure the heat and AC is working correctly with the energized circuits.

Instead of the H3/H1 designations, can you give me the wire colors on the alarm and what they are connected to on the car side? I think they might be the same as my Python. Or can you scan in the diagram so I can see it?
 

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Ok Well this is starting to suck,.. I think i got my wireing wrong.

Here is what is looks like..
h3/1 and h3/6 are tied togeather to the Ignitioin postive wire Red/green.
h3/2 not useing
h3/3 Is tied into Accessory postive wire
h3/4 starter positive wire Dark green, cut in 2, on the side not connected to harnes.
h3/5 To the dark green conected to the harness
h3/6 with h3/1
h3/7 not used
h3/8 not used
h3/9 to a 12v power supply.

Can anyone take a look and tell where i have gone wrong?
What about the white/yellow wire on your truck? I believe that is your true ignition wire
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Sorry sandy messed me up this weekend. Did not get a chance to mess with it. Hopefully tonite. But i believe my start/cranking wire is wrong. The auto clicks on. I have it times for a 10/15 second delay before starting. Heater/ac kicks on. Thier is a humm. But no cranking of the moter. When i get home im going to check that wire coming out of the box. I believe that is where all my problems are comming from.


Sent from my iPhone where spell check hates me.
 

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Sorry sandy messed me up this weekend. Did not get a chance to mess with it. Hopefully tonite. But i believe my start/cranking wire is wrong. The auto clicks on. I have it times for a 10/15 second delay before starting. Heater/ac kicks on. Thier is a humm. But no cranking of the moter. When i get home im going to check that wire coming out of the box. I believe that is where all my problems are comming from.


Sent from my iPhone where spell check hates me.
I believe the white/yellow is the "true ignition" wire that needs to be powered for the engine to start. If you check it with your test light, you should have power with the key on and while cranking, and then while running. You also need to make sure to program what type of tach signal you are using and then follow the tach programming procedure to get it to work. Good luck and if you have any questions, just ask (you can PM me if you'd like as well).

You need to make sure that the starter wire is hooked up correctly (key side and switch side)
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
The starter wire is my problem. The ingition wire is green on my truck. But does the starter wire need to tie into the key side and the starter side of the wire. That is the only wire i cut for the starter kill?


Edit. Just re-looked at the wireing post. Im going to have to check my truck and notes. I have found 4 diffrent wire set ups for my truck. Been useing a volt meter to check it all. It could be that i am tied into the starter wire not ingition wire. Grrrr. If i cut the wrong wire i will be so mad at slef.


Sent from my iPhone where spell check hates me.
 
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