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Auto Locking Hubs explanation

129156 Views 24 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  97_7.3_4X4
Ok Ive gone through a lot of threads here and cannot find an answer to my question.

I have a 2001 F250 7.3 Diesel. I just replaced both auto locking hubs and wheel bearings. All tested fine and according to my mechanic, all is working normally. I want to know if 4WD low engagement is the same as getting out of your truck and locking the hubs manually. If I have my hubs in the "auto" position, why do I still have to get out and rotate the hubs into manual. Some people are telling me that because of limited slip differential that I dont have full 4WD until I get out and change the hubs to manual. So my question is why have auto locking hubs if I still have to manually change the hubs.

It seems like I have half 4WD until I lock the hubs myself. Then its great. I've gotten stuck in snow many times thinking I have engaged 4WD when I haven't.
Its frustrating when everyone with 4WD is just plowing past you.

Thx anyone

wopr21
1 - 2 of 25 Posts
High and low are just in the transfer case. If you have to get out and engage the hubs manually you have a vacuum leak or the switch by the vacuum pump that controls the hubs is bad.
Since the auto hubs only run off of one vacuum line shouldn't they be both be locked when the truck calls for 4 wheel drive if the system is working correctly? I didn't think that there was any difference between the auto and locking them if they work. Please shed some light on this if I am wrong.
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