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Discussion Starter #1
hey guys im starting my arp studs and head gaskets today,i was going to do them with the cab on and order the snap on tool to get the bolts out,but will i be able to do studs with the cab on,also what eles should i do while im in there and what eles would help. i have a late model 04 6.0.thanks
 

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I just dropped my truck off today to my mechanic for my stud job. I think a lot of people on here would tell you to go ahead and rebuild your oil cooler and egr delete. I ordered the MKM Customs kit and it came with everything you could possibly need. Accept a coolant filter of course which is a good idea when starting off with a fresh cooler.

I am no mechanic, but that is my two cents for you. :)
 

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I put studs in my truck. I did it with cab on and didn't get the snap on tool. I did remove the heater core. The only place it was tight was lower rear driver side stud. I had to pound the sheet metal a little to get the head of the torque wrench in there. I would agree with oil cooler, egr delete and coolant filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
update:got to the head last night,got all the head bolts loose except for the 3 lower bolts on the passenger side next to the evaporator tank or the ac,trying not to loose the refrigerant in the ac so does anyone know a better way??and also what do i have to do next to remove the heads,the driver side bolts are all completely loose and can come out but what about the firewall?

and also guys i already have the upgraded oil cooler and already did the egr delete about 2 months ago,thanks for all your help
 

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I don't know of anyother way to remove the passenger head except to evacuate the a/c system and remove the heater box with evaporator. I tried to do the same thing and just couldn't get to all the bolts. Plus trying to torque them will be much easier.

On the driver side pull all the bolts except for the lower rear driver side. When pulling I tightened a rubber band round the bolt and pulled it out as far as I could. This allowed me to pull the head and not get hung up by the bolt. You won't need to dent the firewall until the head is out of the way. Mark the firewall were the torque wrench head is. Once the head is removed pound the firewall in that area to give you clearance. This will give you clearance when torquing the studs. They taller than the factory bolts. I had to make about an inch deep dent.
 
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