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Discussion Starter #1
Me and a buddy are in the process of installing the new IPR EGR delete kit and it's not quite as self explanatory as we thought. We're still unbolting stuff, ready to remove the turbo and lift the manifold. Any advice would be great.

I got the kit without the up pipe if that helps
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, huge help.

However, seems my v band clamps are stuck like chuck. Any tips for breaking them loose? As expected, the driver side manifold one is being the pain...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Got it. We hit it with our purse and it came loose. lol, just took a bit more work with a mini pry bar than I figured. Turbo is off... time to do some real work now.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Even more fun... trying to move the intake manifold around to get to everything. Definitely not finishing this tonight
 

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Yep be careful with the injector clips and try to remember where all the bolts go when you reassemble.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well we called it a night and grabbed a burger a few hours ago. Got everything disassembled and EGR cooler out. Looks like it'll sit until my next day off, Friday, before we begin reassembly.

Quick question though, in regards to the intake manifold. I see the procedure calls for removing the oil and fuel filter asm. Is there another way to fish the manifold out without going through this process? Reason I ask is the IPR kit comes with new gaskets and I figure we might as well put them on since I have them.

Thanks again for your help and resources!
 

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the housing is easy to pull. there are four T45 bolts holding it to the top of the oil cooler.

The fuel lines can be tricky, you will need to use back up wrenches on the 2 lines feeding the heads and the one return line. The feed to the housing has a 3/4" banjo with 2 copper washers. It's normally okay to reuse the washers just don't drop them.
 

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I did mine by just loosening the intake. Just took off the turbo, alternator and rs intake bolts. Loosened the ls intake bolts and rocked it up just enough to remove the cooler and slide the delete pipe in. Just watch your gaskets and theres a large o[ring too for coolant, dont pinch it. Hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Trying to finish this today in between thunderstorms. Figures that it would storm like crazy on my days off.

Anyway I have the delete kit installed and I have a few gaskets left over. I have one small yellow o-ring, identical to the turbo oil drain o ring, a silver circular gasket that looks like its for exhaust, two orange o-rings, an oil cap o-ring, and a large soft rubber black o-ring. Aside from the oil cap o-ring, does anyone know where these gaskets go?

Here's an image for reference, the gaskets I'm referring to are pretty much all the ones on the very bottom row.

 

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The large flat round metal gasket is for the EGR cooler to up-pipe. If you were installing a block off plate (rather than a new up-pipe) you would use this.

The 2 medium orange o-rings are for the EGR valve

The large fat black o-ring goes inbetween the intake manifold and front engine cover for a coolant passage

The "oil cap o-ring" may not be for that but rather the oil filter housing base o-ring.

There are 2 yellow turbo drain tube o-rings, each end of the drain gets one.

The flat darker gray o-ring/gasket is for the base of the EGR valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Good information sir, much obliged. Now it makes sense as I'm sure IPR assumes most people would pull the manifold completely off for this job, thus making these gaskets necessary. Hopefully this rain will stop soon so I can continue bolting this mess back together.
 

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The metal gasket is for between your new egr delete pipe on the passenger side and the y-pipe (or at least that is what it looks like). That connection will leak without that gasket and it is no fun at all to get to once it is all put back together and you realize that you forgot it. Don't ask how I know....
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Gotcha... the kit I got has the blocker plate rather than the new up pipe. I just v-banded the plate and gasket in place of where the cooler went.
 

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I install block off plates only on 03 and 04 trucks. On 05-07 there is a "scoop" in the up-pipe that directs extra flow towards the EGR cooler. When the EGR passage is blocked off this scoop becomes a restriction in the right bank.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks again everyone. Got it all buttoned back up tonight and she seems to be running great but won't know any good info until my CTS arrives soon. Took the time to clean my charge piping and couplers, which was good because I found the small one that connects to the turbo is cracked in two places. Going to replace it tomorrow and get some air out of the cooling system and everything will be good to go.

Matt - that's good to know, whenever the time comes to do my oil cooler rebuild I'll definitely order a new up pipe and solve that issue.
 

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how long did it take? i have to do mine
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Honestly if you did it in one day you could probably do this in 4-6 hours working steady. A cordless 3/8 impact and ratcheting wrenches will speed it up a lot. Its not hard, once you get the turbo off its gravy from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Update for anyone searching that comes across this thread.

DO NOT use an egr block off plate on 05-07 trucks. I suspect it led to cracking both flex joints in the oem egr up pipe and driver side y-pipe. Reason I suspect this is because 05-07 trucks have an egr up pipe with a 'scoop' leading into the stock egr cooler. Bolted into the cooler, the entire assembly is nice and stable, not prone to any shaking or movement. Remove the cooler, and clamp on a block off plate, and you lose that stability and eventually cracked the assembly like I did.

Do it right, get the delete pipe.
 
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