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I've just got my kit & started fitting it this afternoon. I notice the video on the dfa site is a 6.0. I started looking around & can't seam to find anybody with a 7.3 that has fittted their kit.
 

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I've just got my kit & started fitting it this afternoon. I notice the video on the dfa site is a 6.0. I started looking around & can't seam to find anybody with a 7.3 that has fittted their kit.

The install is very similar. Just follow the excellent directions provided in the kit. There is only one subtle difference in the install. The plumbing is very similar.
 

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Not too many on here. Head over to the DFA forum and you can find lots of 7.3 guys!

VegginPSD is right. the 6.0 and the 7.3 are about the same. The difference is the way the fuel is fed to the heads. on the 7.3 they use 1/8 check valves and on the 6.0 they use a banjo bolt
 

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oh and don't be stubborn like me and try to put the back CV in leaving the down pipe in place. Remove the clamp, then remove the 2 bolts on the exhaust near the trans and slide the DP out of the way. It makes it MUCH easier!

Make sure you have some vicegrips around incase you round the pipe plug on the fuel rail :) I rounded the back one on the drivers side and spent a lot of time trying to get it out of there! Not fun...
 

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:agree: The hardest thing about the 7.3 install is the left rear check valve because of the down pipe being in the way, you move that out of the way its cake from there. The driver side rear pipe plug is a little iffy too, you need to get a really good grip on it so it doesnt round. for the front ports its easiest to just remove the alternator, and flop the AC unit out of the way.

What I did that made the hose installation easier was take the heater hose fold it in a U and feed it along the engine to frame block, same with supply lines. once in place, tape them together with electrical tape, then pull it up into the engine compartment and wrap it. Cut heater hose on hot end connect it to front of block, other end to the back of block, connect fuel lines to back of block and then take all the lines together and start wrapping from the front, back. Pull all the uncut lines up into the hole you cut in the bed, then bolt tank in place. From there cut them to size and connect to tank. I dont remember how they tell you to connect the lines but I found on both my former 7.3, and my current 6.0, if you plumb from the front back and wrap the hoses out in the open, the installation goes much easier, and the wrapping looks so much cleaner. :thumb:
 

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In addition, The A/C and Alt/power steering brackets are easiest to re install if you do not completely remove the bolts. Just back the bolts out part way. Use a air ratchet and it is way easier. Dont stress about the clearance between the head and HPOP on the passenger size. It all fits nicely.

I prefer to start on the 1/8 NPT plugs with a GOOD quality adjustable wrench. Take your time not to round them or it is a PITA.

Also, James at DFA rocomends a 95% WVO and 5% D2 blend. I have been running 5-10% D2 based on his advice. He says the risk of coking is greatly diminished with 5% D2 and a good purge.:wink[3]:
 

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In addition, The A/C and Alt/power steering brackets are easiest to re install if you do not completely remove the bolts. Just back the bolts out part way. Use a air ratchet and it is way easier. Dont stress about the clearance between the head and HPOP on the passenger size. It all fits nicely.

I prefer to start on the 1/8 NPT plugs with a GOOD quality adjustable wrench. Take your time not to round them or it is a PITA.

Also, James at DFA rocomends a 95% WVO and 5% D2 blend. I have been running 5-10% D2 based on his advice. He says the risk of coking is greatly diminished with 5% D2 and a good purge.:wink[3]:
Its good to hear that James is promoting the 5% D2, I have been doing it on my own accord, it seemed to help out with the finicky shifting of my 6.0, had a hesitation due to the tune I was running. Also its suprising how much just a little bit of D2 with WVO changes its structure, doesnt seem nearly as sticky. :dunno:
 

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Hi guys, Thanks. Just a quick post as I have some problems in my life right now. I fitted the kit (pics soon) & have done about 5000 miles on veg so far. The kit is so awesome I can't put it into words. I should of done it ages ago. The guys at DFA are awesome! The green light is a bit of a pain at night, but so what! Also a big thanks to Clay Henry for advice over the phone. I'm in the process of setting up my Raw Power Centrifuge at the moment. I will post pics of that too.
 

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Take a piece of window tint film, wet it and put it over the lense on the bright azz green light...then trim it. It will be much more tolerable.
 

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I'm in the process of setting up my Raw Power Centrifuge at the moment. I will post pics of that too.
I have one of these too. Once you get it going you will wonder why you tried to filter anyother way! The CF is the best way to go about cleaning your oil :thumb:
 

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Hi, I'm a newbie trying to understand everything. I noticed a lot of accronyms on all sites concerning diesels....lol....What is DFA, and where can I purchase a veggie kit? I was thinking of bio, but I would like to look at the veggie kit as well. Thanks in advance.
 

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Hi, I'm a newbie trying to understand everything. I noticed a lot of accronyms on all sites concerning diesels....lol....What is DFA, and where can I purchase a veggie kit? I was thinking of bio, but I would like to look at the veggie kit as well. Thanks in advance.
be sure and research your options well, Bio isn't for everyone and you cant run Bio in the winter - depending on your geographical location.
DFA= DinoFuelAlternatives

click the link
 

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x2 on Clays post. feel free to post questions

:welcome1:
 

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I've been doing a lot of reading. I am torn between bio and veggie. I will have multiple vehicles so I think I'm leaning toward bio. I have been reading alot over at journeytoforever and you guys are very correct on the time consumption of processing the bio.
But, on the other hand.....it would get me out of the house away from the wife for awhile.....lol.
Most everything I need for the bio processor, I can get for free so the startup cost are minimum. It's just the time issue. I will make some test batchs and then make my choose.
Thanks for all the info you guys have supplied.
 

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I've been doing a lot of reading. I am torn between bio and veggie. I will have multiple vehicles so I think I'm leaning toward bio. I have been reading alot over at journeytoforever and you guys are very correct on the time consumption of processing the bio.
But, on the other hand.....it would get me out of the house away from the wife for awhile.....lol.
Most everything I need for the bio processor, I can get for free so the startup cost are minimum. It's just the time issue. I will make some test batchs and then make my choose.
Thanks for all the info you guys have supplied.
I have a buddy whos retired and he began making Bio a little over a year ago for his wifes MB diesel and his Ford PSD. His wife still works and drives 100 miles a day to work so she needs 2 tanks full of fuel a week. He spends ALL his time (did i mention hes retired) making Bio. In the winter he can't run bio because it gels at around 40* or thereabouts. So theres a huge proplem because he still has the obligation to his resturants to collect their oil but he can't use it.
Hes sick of making bio only to save 50% on fuel cost as diesel is at 2.50 now and has been there a while. It will likely go up and make things seem more worthwhile but Meth also goes up with the price of oil.:doh:
Moral of this story, he just bought a Frybrid conversion kit for the MB and is looking for a Vegistroke kit to buy. So if you want all the stuff to make bio, he will have it all for sale soon. I think every person i know who thought Bio was the way to go, lasted about a year doing it and switched to a conversion or just went back to buying diesel.:nod:
 

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Having done both I will say Bio is a pain. But it all depends on what you are doing and how much you drive. If your trips are short then Bio makes more sense. if you are driving long distances then VO is better. My truck takes about 5 to 6 miles to switch over (when <65 out) If i was only driving 10 or 15 miles there would be some savings, but not alot. I drive 30 miles to work so I get 2 to 5 miles on diesel then the rest on VO. that makes sense. I tend to drive alot on the weekends pulling different things and all I can say is I really like taking a 300 mile trip pulling my 5er and only burning 1 gal or less of diesel :)

I am working on a cover for the front of the truck to block the wind and see if that helps cut down the warm up times. I am also going to put a switch on the EBPV to help with warmups and I have a High idle program on my chip. Between all this I hope to switch over in a mile or less and only a couple minuts in the driveway for warmup.

Bio has a much smaller start up cost but you pay as you go. VO you pay it all upfront. I started with bio because the plan was to add a few cars and a few trucks to my "fleet". Converting each one would have been BIG bucks. But that did not pan out as I wanted. We might be adding a PSD for my mom at some point. I have the truck and my benz. The benz will be cheap to convert because of how simple it is. We are also going to be getting a tractor pretty soon and I might toy with a conversion on that depending on how things go.

If you go bio, look into dry washing. It is SOOO much better then water or bubble washing!
 

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whats your driving situation(s) like? maybe we can help you decide...
 

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I have a 2003 ex with a 7.3 I travel 400 miles a week little over 200,000 miles on it. So im thinking wvo what is best and how much?
Those are questions from someone who hasn't done any research... Read, read and then read some more.
 
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