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Discussion Starter #1
Thinking about using synthetic Rotella T oil in my next service. I can't find it in 15-40. Only 5W- 40, but the bottle says it is recommended for all heavy and mid duty diesel engines. Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks.
 

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I use it in my 6.0. Didn't notice any difference over the 15-40 rotella I had been using except it started alot easier for me in winter. I don't think that's a problem in your neck of the woods...............
 

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I ran it twice just cause Wally-world had it cheaper than reg Rotella T, didn't notice a diffrence. But then again I used reg Rotella inbetween. Today I noticed at Sam's Club they had 2 2.5 gallons for $15 more that 1 2.5 gallons, allmost bought some but I had a goal. Go to Sam's and not buy crap I didn't need.
 

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WHY? Are you wanting longer change intervals? If so you first need a bypass system and frequent UOA reports. By the time you add up all the cost I don't see any advantages with going synthetic. Modern day oils a far supperior to anything we had 10+ years ago, just change the oil every 5000-7500 miles and you will be fine.

NCH
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My goal is making this engine last another 200,000 miles. Its was used with 150,000 on it when I bought it. I want this thing to keep running a long time. When I dump the oil now it is jet black after only 3,500 miles. Now my work truck (6.0 liter F350) which has similar miles runs synthetic. They change the oil every 10,000 miles and when it comes out, it just looks really dark brown. I don't know, there has to be something to synthetic oils. Every major car company recommends it in their high performance engines. I guess I am just looking for a majic bullet.
 

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Get an oil filtration system if you are wanting piece of mind!
 

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i run the rotella synthetic and change it at fords recommended intervals, 7500 ... and am still going to be installing an oil bypass to make it as clean as i can.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
What is an oil bypass? Is it the filtration system I read about in the magazines? If so, are they expensive to buy and or install? Thanks.
 

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I went with the Rotella 5-40 synthetic, for its cold flow properties, and I REALLY notice the difference in starting effort at 5 below :nod:

I still change it every 5k though :dunno:
 

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What is an oil bypass? Is it the filtration system I read about in the magazines? If so, are they expensive to buy and or install? Thanks.
there are a few different brands of bypass kits, but basically it is just a 1 micron filter that a small amount of oil runs through to help keep your oil cleaner ... it's somewhat expensive, depending on whos kit you go with
 

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Rotella syn only comes in 5w-40...u want good syn oil, go wit Amsoil !!!
 

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My goal is making this engine last another 200,000 miles. Its was used with 150,000 on it when I bought it. I want this thing to keep running a long time. When I dump the oil now it is jet black after only 3,500 miles. Now my work truck (6.0 liter F350) which has similar miles runs synthetic. They change the oil every 10,000 miles and when it comes out, it just looks really dark brown. I don't know, there has to be something to synthetic oils. Every major car company recommends it in their high performance engines. I guess I am just looking for a majic bullet.
I would be extremely careful about switching oils at this stage of your engines life. Thinner oil is great when the engine is new with close tolerances,
tight seals and zero sludge buildup.
If you arent sure of the engine internals...you might consider starting off with a blend .Watch for things like leaking seals,low oil pressure, or OIL that gets dirty extremely fast (sludge being disolved)

I once had a bright idea of changing the oil to fresh synthetic differential oil in the rear of an f100 that I had restored.I drained the rear (using the lower plug)and filled it up.The test drive told me ..wow...the rear is quieter and the truck seems to roll that much easier. The following weekend .I took the truck on a 40 mile trip with a trailer. On the return trip ,I was almost home and heard a huge bang and a rear wheel locked up while rolling down the road. ....WTF?? i said?
Eventually,(at home) I opened the rear and discovered that a previous owner had lost an axle bearing....and replaced it. The missing roller bearings were still submerged in the sludge in the pumkin...until I freed them with new, fresher, thinner oil . One of them then found its way to the ring gear.:):):)
 

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Here's some reading on oil by-pass systems. They use your "regular" filter as before but circulate your oil at a slower rate thru a filter that really cleans the small stuff out. Prices vary depending on whether you drive a 7.3 or 6.0, etc. Spin on filters are replaced with an adapter that connects to remote filters. Cartridge type filters remain in place and the cap is replaced (as well as the filler cap) to connect to a remote single filter. Never installed one but have been told that they are pretty easy to do.

AMSOIL - By-pass Oil Filter Mounting Kits

Will allow long intervals between oil changes if the proper oil and filters are used. I use and really like:

AMSOIL - Synthetic Diesel & Marine Motor Oil SAE 15W-40 (AME)

Worth looking into..............................



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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks to all. I really appreciate the feedback. So I changed out the oil with the Rotella and it seems fine. Except now that I heard about the whole sludge thing, I think I will watch it over the week and get some 15W-40 syn to put in it next weekend. I will have to save up for the bypass. Maybe get some opinions on which is best for the money and what not. Thanks again.
 

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So your oil is black and that's bad.......? This means your oil is doing it's job, it doesn't mean anything is wrong with it. I highly suggest getting a UOA on your current oil and see what the lab has to say. If you really want a bypass system Oilguard is the one I would go with. But honestly I have seen several 7.3's well over 500K and not one of them had a bypass system, and if they did I wouldn't attribute their long life to it. Regular maintenance is the key to engine longevity!!
Good Luck

NCH
 

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I just tried the Rotella Syn in my 30hp diesel tractor last week. Its seems I could tell a small difference in power running a 6ft bushhog. It used to struggle in the taller grass but doesn't seem to pull down as much with the syn. I going to stay with the syn in the tractor & an thinking about going to syn in my 2006 6.0.
 

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I don't think the 5w part of the oil's number is anything to really worry about. EDIT: actually, see above/below, I am wrong about this.

If I remember this right, from the Motor Oil Bible, it says the "w" number just represents an oil's "simulated cold cranking ability", but the "40" number is still the viscosity of the oil at 100 degC (212 degF), meaning 5w40 weight oil is still 40 weight oil at 212 degF.

It also says to remember that oil always gets "thinner" at it gets heated and to not be deceived into letting the "w" number let you think that any oil gets thinner as it cools off.
 

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Yes, the first number is the "cold flow property" of the oil. Meaning easier morning start-ups. I know I can see a difference going from 10w-30 dino, to 5w-40 syn, especially when it's 5 below outside :nod:
 

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I don't think the 5w part of the oil's number is anything to really worry about.

If I remember this right, from the Motor Oil Bible, it says the "w" number just represents an oil's "simulated cold cranking ability", but the "40" number is still the viscosity of the oil at 100 degC (212 degF), meaning 5w40 weight oil is still 40 weight oil at 212 degF.

It also says to remember that oil always gets "thinner" at it gets heated and to not be deceived into letting the "w" number let you think that any oil gets thinner as it cools off.
Yep but also remember that the engine spends most of its life cold.
05w is more likely to seep or drain down past marginal check valves than 15w.
 

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i agree with nchornet that the oilguard is the best bypass for the money.
 
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