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another wobble thread.

2333 Views 53 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  wpg_f250
Ok so I'm 600kms from home stuck in a $300/night hotel room on a long weekend with a truck that has SERIOUS bump steer and wandering issues and I'm stumped here!

Truck was driving just fine the day before i left and was able to highway drive at 120kph no problem then yesterday 200-300ish kms into my trip the steering went to straight sh!!t after turning out of a parking lot.

I did a close look and figured it was the tie rods as I can feel AND hear some play in the wheels when shaking from left to right, but when I zoomed in on the video's the tie rods look fine, but there's still play there on both sides so could this be bad wheel hubs or u joints, steering box?

Just had one of the front u joints replaced in January along with steering box and ball joint for bottom of track bar so not sure what just turned to garbage?

Here's some videos I just took and please ANY insight here would be most helpful.




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On closer inspection when tire is shook from left to right I noticed the inner rims are flexing and you can see this if you focus on the balance weights.

Is this normal?

DuraTrac tires?

If so, the belts are prone to separating. Look for bulging on one or more.
So these expensive tires with great reviews are KNOWN for falling apart at highway speeds? :oops:

Well F me that's the last G damn thing I need to worry about or have happen on a truck that's got a track record for being hard to steer!

All tires look good btw @bismic
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On closer inspection when tire is shook from left to right I noticed the inner rims are flexing and you can see this if you focus on the balance weights.

Is this normal?

Yeah - that's just your sidewalls flexing. That's why I stopped running Duratracs - too soft of a sidewall for me.

Jack up the front right and wiggle it again. Repeat on the other side. I definitely hear SOMETHING wiggling around.

-jokester
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I ran many a DuraTrac tire, until changing not long ago. I also had a LOT of free replacements because of the issue.
The issues never happened QUICKLY, but they did happen repetitively.
The issues were all pretty evident when the tires were removed at TireMart Discount Tire.

May not be your issue, but just be aware.
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Yeah - that's just your sidewalls flexing. That's why I stopped running Duratracs - too soft of a sidewall for me.

Jack up the front right and wiggle it again. Repeat on the other side. I definitely hear SOMETHING wiggling around.

-jokester

Yeah I'll have to go buy one as I mistakenly packed the smaller one that doesn't go high enough.

I'll get a few more videos from different angles and post up in a few minutes for the meantime.

Could one or both wheel hubs be toast and that's where the play is coming from?
I'm also going to check both u joints on front while jacked up by rotating each tire outward then trying to spin.

I had one u joint replaced and was told the other was fine, but I now believe that shop has no idea how to do anything correct.

Maybe the "fine" u joint failed yesterday and that's what's causing the current issue of hazardous bump steer and wandering?

Seriously 80kpm MAX on the highway and even that feels dangerous! 😬😬😬
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What exactly is your steering doing - pulling constantly or intermittently to one side? If so, I was thinking axle u-joint or even a stuck caliper. Is the rotor getting hot on one side or the other?

If it's just wondering back and forth, could be a few things.

Keep us posted...

-jokester
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What exactly is your steering doing - pulling constantly or intermittently to one side? If so, I was thinking axle u-joint or even a stuck caliper. Is the rotor getting hot on one side or the other?

If it's just wondering back and forth, could be a few things.

Keep us posted...

-jokester

It's wandering/jerking left to right SIVERLY with any wind or bumps in road and even with flat open road it still does it, but easier to keep control.

I'm tempted to remove the bilstein damper and put another oil unit in and see if the gas damper goes to crap from lot's of engine heat, but there's still that play and noise when shaking front tires so I dunno man?
Jake the front tire off the ground and wiggle. Almost appears to wheel/hub bearings are gone bad.
It's clear SOMETHING isn't right. You absolutely need to get the wheel off the ground though to see what precisely. I noticed the sound was seemingly more apparent from the passenger side, so I'd begin there. What I heard makes me wonder if it isn't something similar to a hub failing. You said this began suddenly right? Do you notice any new sounds while moving? Such as a rumbling, roaring or howling that increases with speed?
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As said, use the tire jack to get the wheel off the ground, then see how it moves with your hands at 3 and 9.

Very well could be the hub.
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Ujoints and hubs typically make distinct noises while in motion if theyre failing. The tires would be less noticeable noise wise.

Having 2 hubs both go out at the same time would be a rare occurrence. That may point to excessive heat from dragging pads. If that's the case, new parts would fail rapidly if the original cause isn't addressed. The long trip points me toward an underlying cause such as brake heat. You may want to drive it and check for heat as mentioned avove
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4
DuraTrac tires?

If so, the belts are prone to separating. Look for bulging on one or more.
Yeah - that's just your sidewalls flexing. That's why I stopped running Duratracs - too soft of a sidewall for me.

Jack up the front right and wiggle it again. Repeat on the other side. I definitely hear SOMETHING wiggling around.

-jokester
Jake the front tire off the ground and wiggle. Almost appears to wheel/hub bearings are gone bad.
It's clear SOMETHING isn't right. You absolutely need to get the wheel off the ground though to see what precisely. I noticed the sound was seemingly more apparent from the passenger side, so I'd begin there. What I heard makes me wonder if it isn't something similar to a hub failing. You said this began suddenly right? Do you notice any new sounds while moving? Such as a rumbling, roaring or howling that increases with speed?
As said, use the tire jack to get the wheel off the ground, then see how it moves with your hands at 3 and 9.

Very well could be the hub.
Ujoints and hubs typically make distinct noises while in motion if theyre failing. The tires would be less noticeable noise wise.

Having 2 hubs both go out at the same time would be a rare occurrence. That may point to excessive heat from dragging pads. If that's the case, new parts would fail rapidly if the original cause isn't addressed. The long trip points me toward an underlying cause such as brake heat. You may want to drive it and check for heat as mentioned avove

Ok fellas I went and grabbed a 3 ton jack and got the whole front end off the ground and did the left to right tire shake and I think the small noise it makes is the steering box as my steering wheel doesn't lock into position when straight and only locks when hard left or hard right and no idea why that is, but anywho.

I then turned each tire outward and spun them counter clockwise while looking at the U joints and no movement on either, but when hubs are in lock position both u joints spin freely with no binding that I can tell and even though one of the u joints is new they both look ugly as F.

NOW for some odd reason I decided to do a test drive(20 minutes)with both hubs locked and to my surprise she's driving great again and I was able to track straight doing 100kph with CRAZY strong crosswinds and bumpy highway, like night and day difference 100%.

So what does this mean and what parts do I need to have replaced?

I also picked ap a new oil filled damper from Canadian Tire and I'm going to put that on tomorrow and see how it compares to the Bilstein and Rancho units I've used and see what's what.

Pictures and video for your viewing pleasure and once again thank you guys SO MUCH for alway helping.




BTW this is how much play my steering wheel has without really moving the tires much so steering linkage or steering box....maybe both?


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IMO I'd look at the steering box / steering column / drag link, bolts & nuts, front ends don't usually just go from good to bad, off the jack get someone to turn the wheel back and forth and inspect all the components you should see where the slop is, good luck and be careful.
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IMO I'd look at the steering box / steering column / drag link, bolts & nuts, front ends don't usually just go from good to bad, off the jack get someone to turn the wheel back and forth and inspect all the components you should see where the slop is, good luck and be careful.
Steering box is brand new, but that's not saying much given the quality of parts now a days lol.

Anyways I locked the hubs and she's driving good again so not sure why unlocked hubs=horrible bump steer/wandering and locked hubs=good handling?

Any ideas on that?
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Axle U joints...

-jokester
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Steering box is brand new, but that's not saying much given the quality of parts now a days lol.

Anyways I locked the hubs and she's driving good again so not sure why unlocked hubs=horrible bump steer/wandering and locked hubs=good handling?

Any ideas on that?
No I don't thats a puzzler
Looks like you could benefit from new steering components at a minimum. Drag link ball joint and tie rod ends are rough, u joints too. They "appear" to have seen their life expectancy. I would start there and see what that does for you. As mentioned you gotta truly find where the slop is, but at some point it's best to rebuild the front end at once to tighten everything back up. Shops charge a premium, best if you can get her home and DIY to save a few $$
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