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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a 97 f350 a few months back. It's my first diesel and I'm still getting used to the terminology. Bare with me...

Anyway when I first bought the truck I would only notice a small pool of oil about the size of half dollar under the truck. And it would only make the pool after a long drive.

Now the leak has gotten faster and there are multiple oil spots under the truck and its almost pissing oil out. There is oil covering almost everything under the valve covers on both sides of the engine but nothing on manifolds. The majority of the oil drips from the front cross member. There is oil covering the passenger frame by the shock and on the passenger spring. Some drips off the tie rod and less but some from the oil pan drain plug. I don't see oil in the valley at least not behind the fuel bowl. I fear multiple leaks may be happening simultaneously...
PLEASE HELP THE NEWBIE!
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Well what do you wanna know? Clean it up, look for where the leak starts, then let us know. Oil cooler, dip stick tube oring, turbo pedestal orings, EBPV actuating rod seal.
 

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Well I was just kinda wondering where to start looking. I'm getting some dye and ill clean it up sometime this week. It's just odd to me that it is on both sides of engine, passenger spring and frame, and the majority drips right down the front of the engine. Also that there's not really anything in the valley. Thanks for the reply!
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Is the underside of the hood clean? There isn't a whole lot on the passenger side of the motor that would leak this much. why I ask is I'm wondering if you have a hair crack in the High Pressure Oil Pump hose to one of the heads and it's just squirting over the motor onto the suspension.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No oil under the hood. As stated earlier I need to clean everything up. I would like to do that today but its raining its asss off all day today. I was first thinking a Hpop issue since that seems to be common(like o-rings or something) but the lack of oil in the valley had me looking elsewhere. I might buy an o-ring kit for it regardless.
1. It's inexpensive
2. I like cheap PM (even though its a good bit of work)
3. Taking stiff apart might reveal other issues.
But at the same time I don't like to just throw parts at something hoping to fix a problem. At 270k I should do it just in case anyway.
Does that seem like a smart idea?
 

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oil leak

I also have an oil leak (s)
96 F350
After cleaning the engine, changing the oil and filter, there seems to be something causing a fair amount of blow by right under the turbo...????

also seems to be blow by when the oil fill cap is off AND when the dipstick is out of the tube.

A fair amount of oil comes out and drips from the top of the tranny area....

Any ideas?

No oil accumulation in valley pan, already replaced oil lines 2 years ago (25K miles)

ALSO....the truck is running a bit rough at idle, and idling around 600-650
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well its taken me forever to get uv dye and figure her out. I've been too buisy getting corn and soy harvested(excuses, excuses). Anyway, it looks like most of the oil is leaking from the front of the motor, underneath the alternator and AC compressor. Oil rail? Head gaskets?

I tried to snap pics but the glare is too great.

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Well its taken me forever to get uv dye and figure her out. I've been too buisy getting corn and soy harvested(excuses, excuses). Anyway, it looks like most of the oil is leaking from the front of the motor, underneath the alternator and AC compressor. Oil rail? Head gaskets?

I tried to snap pics but the glare is too great.

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Hey, getting corn and soy in from the fields is pretty important. I do like my soda and plastic. There are two large HPOP oil rail plugs in the front of the heads that need new o-rings from time to time but if it looks like it is both sides at the same time I would lean on the rubber gasket under the HPOP sump cover.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the help big fuel. What do you mean by the sump cover? Sorry terminology is over my head. Also it leaks more oil down the passenger side. A lot more...
 

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No worries, look in this picture on the left side about in the middle for part number 6658. That is the HPOP sump cover. Look down the exploded picture and you will see the rubber gasket (pn 6619). Also note PN 68070, this part is the inspection/access cover to the HPOP drive gear that can also leak oil down the front but mostly passenger side of the block.



This is what the top looks like. Brass/brown thing under the gauge.




In this exploded view find PN 1818186 C1 (look dead center. Then down a little and to the left). This is the HPOP oil plug at each end of the heads. It also shows the o-rings.

 

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Discussion Starter #11
Damn that is really helpful. Is the sump cover also referred to as the Hpop reservoir? I think that's what threw me off.
What web site did you pull those pictures from? Thanks! Now I have to get back to doing the egr delete on my brothers 6.0.... Ugh makes me appreciate my 7.3
 

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Go back to the first picture and at the bottom look for PN 6019. That is the front cover of the engine. Sometimes referred to as the timing cover. Near the top of it, we're the rubber gasket goes, you'll see two ports. The larger one on the left is where the HPOP drive gear is located and if you look down farther (in your engine not the picture) you'll see the rest of the timing system. The smaller port on the right is the HPOP resivior. Low pressure oil is pushed through the block and into the HPOP resivior to keep a supply available to he HPOP but as the port continues to fill the excess spills over and lubes the timing system until the LPOP can catch up (after starting her up) and fill the entire cavity.

Here is a general view of he low pressure oil just after startup.

 

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This is for the cover that accesses the HPOP drive gear? I just used a thin bead of silicon. Clean the area well and let the work sit over night.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I ordered oil rail plugs/o rings and the sump cover. I'll reseal the cover this weekend.

But while I have your attention, I'd like to ask another question. I'm throwing four codes off of my edge insight.
P0113 iat sensor hight input

P0344 camshaft position sensor A circut intermittent bank 1 or single sensor

P0236 turbo boost senor A circut range/performance

P1211 injector control pressure higher/lower than desired engine running

My ICPpsi is around 580 at idle 740 at 2000rmp(at rest) 1200psi at 2000rmp under load

IPR % 9.0 at idle 5-7 at 2000rpm

I've noticed some power loss lately. I have trouble building boost(or so the bad sensor will sudgest). I thought it was Hpop related. Maybe not getting a good supply of oil. Or possibly a boost leak. I can't see soot anywhere under the hood.
Now it might even be IPR related? Stumped...
 

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Have you tried clearing the codes and seeing what comes back?

Having a 113, 344, 236 at the same time first leads me to think that you are having a harness failure. Disconnect the harness at the PCM and see if all the pins are clean and none have backed out. Chances are that this truck has had a fuel leak in its lifetime and diesel eats wiring insulation causing shorts.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
That actually makes some sence, due to the fact that every once in a while my monitor will suddenly shut off. Do you think that its related to the harness problem?

And yes I have cleared the codes before and those came up again. Now today I cleared the codes again and only the IAT came up. Also my truck had a lot more "snap" to it while driving. I can still only get my boost gauge to read 8lbs when I get on her a good bit.
 

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Your boost issues may be due to the 0236 code on the MAP sensor. If the PCM can't see the boost being produced It will limit the amount of fuel going in to allow you to drive but not to play. It is a self preservation call that the PCM makes. The IAT is located stuck in the air cleaner box (if you truck is stock). Most people dismiss this sensor (because on older trucks this and/or the EBPS being out of range would just shut off the EBPV. Not true on all models as Ford was tinkering with the PCM programming to try and get the trucks to be more efficient) but certain PCMs use it to help determine the air to fuel ratio for the best engine performance. If the PCM can't see the IAT then it makes a judgement call and assumes a 59* intake air temperature. Colder air is denser air so add more fuel. Your sensors are fighting each other. This is why I suspect a wiring harness failure or the connector at the PCM.

What do you mean "the monitor will suddenly shut off"?
 
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