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Machinist & Fabricator
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Discussion Starter #1
trying to help a friend get this thing running.
2002 F350 CCSB
435k on it!
ive got 90 psi with the key on.
trucks plugged in.
has oil pressure,
batteries are fully charged
new IPR, new FPR, new ICP. appears to be a new fuel filter.
it was throwing IPR codes, but nothing since I cleared the codes.
it will fire off ether (against my advice) but wont stay running.
I have another fuel bowl to swap out tomorrow.

the fuel filter does look abnormal compared to my 7.3..
I have read that the engine wont receive fuel if the filter is missing, if it is infact the incorrect filter, could this be the issue?

now the worst part.....

he's had a few tweekers work on it, and I fear they did something to frack it up.
but to my eye nothing looks too hacked or out of place.
any help would be greatly appreciated!
 

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They wont get fuel without the filter in because there is a spring loaded check valve in the top of the stem. What is the hpop oil pressure? I believe you need a minimum of 450-500psi to start.

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Machinist & Fabricator
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676 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
They wont get fuel without the filter in because there is a spring loaded check valve in the top of the stem. What is the hpop oil pressure? I believe you need a minimum of 450-500psi to start.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
Honestly, I have no clue how to check HPOP pressure. I've been through the "data" part on my snapon solus, but I can't find where it shows HPOP pressure.
I have always been under the impression that if the HPOP pressure isn't adequate, it wont fire off of ether.
am I incorrect?

what do i need to buy to check hpop pressure?

edit: I have swapped HPOP's from a 30k mile 7.3, and no change.
he's got a low mileage engine weve been thinking about swapping.
but ive robbed some stuff off it.
 

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The oil pressure is read from the injection control pressure (ICP). The PCM needs to see the ICP above 500 psi to fire, also check the IPR duty cycle shouldn't get above 45% when trying to crank. If so that is a good indication you have an high pressure oil leak somewhere.


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Honestly, I have no clue how to check HPOP pressure. I've been through the "data" part on my snapon solus, but I can't find where it shows HPOP pressure.
I have always been under the impression that if the HPOP pressure isn't adequate, it wont fire off of ether.
am I incorrect?

what do i need to buy to check hpop pressure?

edit: I have swapped HPOP's from a 30k mile 7.3, and no change.
he's got a low mileage engine weve been thinking about swapping.
but ive robbed some stuff off it.
Swapping the HPOP has most likely introduced air into the system. Now it may take even longer to get it started.

Pull the valve covers and confirm that oil is coming out of the injectors while cranking. No oil = no fire
 

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Machinist & Fabricator
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676 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
so I ended up doing a engine swap with another engine,
learned how to dead head the HPOP and jump the IPR.
so new knowledge is always awesome.
the truck left this morning, to only come back on the back of a flat bed with a "it just died" spheel

got in it and it fired right up.
only codes were the GPM and now the fuel gauge circuit.

noticed it was low on coolant and filled it back up.

the culprit was low compression, and it did not want to run.
40k miles on the engine I just installed..
took me 32 hours to swap it out tho.

ill be driving it for a few days to see WTF.
and now mine has issues......
 

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Machinist & Fabricator
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676 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
this truck has an electrical gremlin above my paygrade.
I took it for a test drive and it died within 4 miles.
let it sit for a couple hours and still wouldn't want to start.
changed CPS's and it fired right up.
drove it home and parked it, and tried to fire it off again, and it didn't want to start.
let it sit overnight, and it fired up this morning.

im gonna throw a new CPS in it when they get here, I ordered a few from riff raff.
and then im done with this thing, it needs a professional.
 

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Machinist & Fabricator
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676 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Sounds like a bad ground

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pass side batt is grounded to the block, and the chassis ground.
the rear of the pass head is grounded to the body,
and the drivers side batt is grounded to the block
these are the only 4 grounds I disconnected. I even sanded the ground locations...
am I missing one?
air heater is grounded to intake plentum
 

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Not that I am aware of. I have heard of people adding a ground to the wiper motor, not sure how or why, but IIRC it was for a no start or excessive cranking.

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