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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've scoured this forum and others (for example, this "classic" thread, Looking for info on converting a 01 f-350 psd - Page 22 - Forums , no i didn't read all 22 pages, ok maybe I did) about converting the 7.3L engine for a 2000 Excursion, yet to be purchased. I've realized that there are lots of different ways to make it work. I like the idea of a regulated return system, but also like the idea of the quick purge times offered by the deadheaded system. I have a thought for a way to combine the two, maybe some of you have a system similar to this, or maybe there is just a great reason not to do it that I don't know about. (the system I'm describing might be very similar to this thread http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/bi...upplements/174674-dead-head-v-s-return-2.html )

The D2 would run stock, deadheaded, with no return line. The WVO supply would run to the "test ports" which, as I understand it, are on the opposite side of the heads as the D2. Rather than installing a check valve directly into the head at the D2 supply, I would install a T, with one leg being the check valve for the D2, the other being the WVO return line. The return line would loop back to the pre-pump line. The WVO return would have a solenoid that was open during WVO, closed during D2. The purge would be identical to a deadheaded system. During purge, the WVO return solenoid would close, a "purge solenoid" would open for a set time, flushing the heads of WVO and pushing it backwards through the supply line for a set distance - and eventually back to the tank. Obviously, the D2 pump would need to be switched off during WVO. Does this seem like a good set up?

On a couple of unrelated questions:
1. what do you think of an AirDogII pump with an adjustable regulator. An Airdog rep says the max adjustment is 65 psi. Will this provide enough pressure at the head, considering there will be pressure loss from going through filter, fuel lines, and FPHE?
2. I plan on using HIH for my supply lines, until I get pretty close to the heads and a coolant-heated tank. The AirDog would not have a heater filter. Should I have something extra, like a VegTherm or a second FPHE, to warm up my oil before it hits the filter? I imagine lukewarm oil going through a filter could kill the fuel pressure. I should say that I'm in WA state, temps can get pretty low here.
3. The only Excursion-compatible exterior tank I have found it made by BioFuels Technologies. It looks great, but $1.5k is a lot for a tank, has anybody found any other options for the Excursion out there?

I will try to post a schematic of the system tomorrow. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
schematic attached...i think

I attached the schematic that depicts the system described above. The WVO would be prevented from flowing into the D2 lines by the inline check valves. Is the consensus that the FASS FPHP is the best pump option? Should I invest in a heated filter and consider my oil to be hot enough if it flows like this: heated tank-pump-heated filter-FPHE-heads. I read a post awhile back that said a coolant pump is the best way to increase heat flow into the oil. I figured I would invest the $100 to add that to the system (it's not pictured in the attached).
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
simone,
I was most certainly NOT making fun of that thread, there's tons of info in there! :)

Good to know on the veg therm, I'll spend the $100 on a coolant pump instead.

It's not that I feel a RR is necessary, but I get the impression that it is better from a performance standard, though I don't have any quantitative stats that back that up. I get that the deadheaded system is easy to install, and has proven pretty reliable, and plenty of people have it, etc. I'm just thinking, while I'm under the truck doing all this work, would it really be that hard to add in the return line?

On the other hand, I could always do just start with the simple deadheaded system, and then I could pretty easily plumb in the return line at a later date if I felt like it.

Thanks for the input.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Good to know guys, thanks for the input. I'm just about ready to purchase all my components (getting my rig next week!). I think I'll stick with the simpler system for now, with no regulated return. During the purge cycle, the normally closed purge solenoid will need to be open for a certain specific amount of time and then closed. Is there a small electrical component I can buy that will put power to the purge solenoid for a certain amount of time (when I push my purge button), and then cut it off, so that the purge is manually started, but automatically ended. This component would have to be adjustable, since I'd have to calibrate it for the correct time. There must be something like this out there, I just don't know what it is.

Thanks.
 
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