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Discussion Starter #1
EGT 13, when it's open circuit, the sensor is bad, unplugged, not installed in your delete kit, what have you causes the truck to enter the following strategy:


  • PCM Power output limited.
  • A "Pull Over Safely and Shut Vehicle Off" message may display in your instrument cluster.
  • A 1-hour no-crank condition.
If you suspect this is your issue, and you're stranded, try the following.


  1. Vehicle in PARK
  2. Parking brake SET
  3. Key in the ON position
  4. Open hood
  5. Near the RH battery, there is a single wire disconnect. It is attached to the battery box. Remove it from the battery box and disconnect it.
  6. Touch the end headed towards the starter to the POSITIVE terminal of the battery.
The truck should start. Reconnect the wire, close the hood, and check for codes. You will likely have a code for EGT-13 open circuit, over temp, out of range.

DISCLAIMER: USE THIS INFORMATION AT YOUR OWN RISK. IF YOUR VEHICLE IS INDEED EXPERIENCING AN OVER TEMPERATURE CONDITION THERE IS RISK OF VEHICLE DAMAGE AND POSSIBLE FIRE OR TOTAL LOSS OF VEHICLE. THE AUTHOR OF THIS POST ASSUMES NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE INFORMATION PROVIDED WITHIN. USE THE AFOREMENTIONED INFORMATION PROVIDED AT YOUR OWN RISK TO SELF, VEHICLE, AND PROPERTY.

Hope this is of some help to folks on here. I have seen two or three posts in the last 3 or 4 days regarding this, and helped a stranded member out over the phone with this same problem.

Hope this post is useful to some, if not, most.
 

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Is it the brown wire with the green tracer and some kind of a plastic connector?
 

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This saved me a helluva lotta trouble, tonight..

I got distracted while changing tunes, and installed the dpf on tune w/o the dpf.. whoops.. it was idling, and I could hear the egt cycling.. I got no codes, and no problems while it was idling, but confirmed via the mini maxx I had tuned as if a dpf was present..

After re tuning, it would not crank.. I checked relays and fuses, and re programmed no less than six times.. then I got to thinking about what I had did, and recalled this thread from when I was scouting this joint..

Thank you thank you thank you.. at one point, I was thinking I fried my pcm.. that didn't last long, though, because I realized it was communicating thoroughly during programming.. this little trick saved me a helluva stressful situation..
 

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does this happen everytime you put a delete kit on or a stright pipe and unplug all the sensor in the pipe? is their a way to avoid it? after you do the delete etc can you wait an hour and it i will start after that? cant you just do the delete and load tunes on all at once then it wont care or does it take an hour after you try to start it
 

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Hunter of Trolls
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make sure and tune it first- then do the physical deletes..

if the egr and the sensors in the DPF don't register on the OE tune, or the tune you've loaded, you'll get the lock out- and if you run it deleted with tunes looking for those sensors, it will pull one of those 'stop safely' messages on your info center, and kill the engine on it's own accord..

oh.. if you're using H&S, only the HD300 tunes will work with the EGR gone..
 

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so if your using a delete tune and all the sensors deleted aka the system isnt looking for the sensors your good?
 

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bingo...

if you're using a tuner that ignores them, you're good.. if you're using a tuner that requires them to be absent, you're good.. if you're mixing the two schools of though, you're not good..

H&S ignores the exhaust sensors.. it ignores the EGR while using the hd300 family.. I think it's SCT that requires the sensor to still be present (exhaust bungs in exhaust with a sensor present)..
 

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I'm new to the 6.4 world (previously a 6.0 owner). I unplugged all the sensors and the truck fired up and ran just fine (had to move to a different shop in order to attempt straight pipe install). After moving, I went to start the truck and everything came on but no click/turn over/nothing. I bought an SCT and an exhaust without bungs (which is yet to be installed), from want I understand I have to have sensors plugged in for the engine to run. So my question is, why would the truck run fine and then all of a sudden not fire? FYI this thread saved my a** this evening, thanks a million for the info!


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Typically for an open circuit concern/unplugged sensor, the PCM will need to see the failure twice (so, two key cycles) to set a hard code and disable the cranking strategy.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Since the tube is clear, and 6.0's used to eat EBP sensors for lunch, I'd lean towards failed sensor, but that is not always the case.

Compare your EBP, BARO, and MAP PIDS at KOEO. Ford specs they should be within about .5 psi of each other. I use .1 or .2 psi as a diagnostic value.
 

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Hillbilly saved me with this a few years back. I have used it twice before I tuned properly. I copied and saved it to my notes on my phone just in case myself or someone else gets stranded with the same problem.

Thanks Hillbilly
 

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First off ID like to say thanks to all who have posted info here. It's all good info and help me with this truck. I just bought my first diesel, a used (been in a flood) 2008 Ford 350 Super-duty 4x4 6-speed manual with exhaust issues. Truck was samerged in 4 feet of muck water and the DPF/cat completely stopped up.

My issue is this, I took the DPF/cat off and put on DPF exhaust without holes for sensors and now it refuses to start with key and gives no codes. I've bypassed the wire by pax battery so I can drive it. Do I need to drill holes for the 3 EGT sensors #11, 12, and 13 or just #13 and does the EGR presser sensor need hooked up?
 

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First off ID like to say thanks to all who have posted info here. It's all good info and help me with this truck. I just bought my first diesel, a used (been in a flood) 2008 Ford 350 Super-duty 4x4 6-speed manual with exhaust issues. Truck was samerged in 4 feet of muck water and the DPF/cat completely stopped up.

My issue is this, I took the DPF/cat off and put on DPF exhaust without holes for sensors and now it refuses to start with key and gives no codes. I've bypassed the wire by pax battery so I can drive it. Do I need to drill holes for the 3 EGT sensors #11, 12, and 13 or just #13 and does the EGR presser sensor need hooked up?
You will need the sensors unless you put a DPF delete tune in. Have you got the right DPF? Should already have the threaded holes for the sensors.
 

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The exhaust I got does not have the holes for thd sensors. They are wire tied up so I'm guessing I'm going to drill holes back into the pipe to hook them all back up and deal with the issue of the reign staying on. I'm not wanting a turner or chip on the truck. Never been a fan of adding much to a truck unless I have to. I'm just tring to get it back to where I can use my key to start thd truck.
 

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Has Power NO Crank

Hey guys needing some help.. I have a 2008 F250 6.4 and the other night i was leaving my daughters house and put the truck in "R" to leave and it just died on me.. So i put it in "P" and turn the key off sit there for a minute or 2. Turn the key on ALL lights, Radio, everything comes on but no cranking... i have all ready tried the bypass and the engine just turns over and wont start.. bought a new EGT 13 and put it in and still nothing.. Have also tried a different key, maybe thinking the chip went out in my other one but it wasn't the case.. Any Suggestions??????
 
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