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I have a 2005 Bigfoot Class C on a E450 cutaway chassis with a 6.0 Powerstroke. Does anyone know how to identify which alternator I have (without pulling it)? There's a sticker on the driver's door that specifically says it is NOT equipped as an ambulance. I tried the Ford Etis site with my VIN, and it just tells me the model and engine, nothing more. I'm putting a lot of new electrical stuff on the coach side (solar, inverter/charger, lithium batteries) and one item is a DC->DC charger to charge the coach batteries while driving, so I need to know what the alternator amperage is. Pulling the alternator, or doing most anything on an E450 is a special kind of hell.Thanks in advance....
 

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I would buy an ALT based on your plans not what they put in take some pics or ask the better alt sellers if you can fit a large frame unit in it

make sure you don't have dual alts before you order for a single
 

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ZMANN, thanks for your quick response. I'm really not looking to replace it. The vehicle only has ~30k miles and the alternator is working fine. It charges both the chassis and coach batteries fine, but, in switching over to lithium, I can't just hook up direct via a solenoid disconnect. It'll kill the lithium batteries. So, I'm just trying to figure out which alternator I have. In the E-series, you can only see a glimpse of it over the turbo pipe, and with the doghouse off, I can barely see the rear end. I guess Etsi is going away and all it offers now is model, color, and engine to mere mortals.
Over on Ford Tuck Enthusiasts, there is a VIN decoder ( VIN Decoder - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums ) that shows mine as having a 130A on the Equipment tab, and on the Specs tab, it says:
Maximum Alternator Capacity (amps) 220, 130 130.0 min 220.0 max
Which means?? Is there some way of testing it, short of removing it, to tell its amperage? Or some visual ID? (if I can get a mirror in there close enough and my old eyes can focus enough to read it). From my inspection it looks like the Ford 110A, or the Bosch 140A, definitely not the L-N 230A.
 

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There's probably no room but a dc clamp meter at the alternator during a cold start would tell. At that point the glow plugs will be maxing it out and it will tell you the most it will produce. Start it cold and have someone rev it to 2500 while you watch the meter.
 

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i would imagine if it is larger than the stock it would have a larger cable on top

you should be able to get an ok pic of the existing unit ?

If I ran lithium I would get the type with an onboard BMS
 

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My 6.0 comes with a somewhat underpowered alternator, I think 110 amps, and an upgrade to higher amps is very common, and I can’t tell by looking at the alternator what was installed. I know I installed a 140 amp alternator, but its not labeled anywhere on it. So, if there was any work done to this coach since before you got it, who knows what is installed.

I did a 1350 watt solar panel installation in my fifth wheel, and I only have the charge controller that takes the solar input, so not from the alternator.

THe coach is not my solar area of comfort, but from what little thought I‘ve put into it, I would not want to push more than 20 to 30 amps from the alternator to the batteries if I had a coach. A lot of the alternator charts I see do not show a lot of amps being pushed from the alternator at idle, so even with my 140 amp alternator pushing 20 or 30 amps to the batteries would let my truck‘s alternator push enough amps to charge the battery in the coach and still have enough power to runny truck without cutting into the battery.

I am curious though. A few of these charge controllers for alternator inputs limit what the solar panels can push. I’ve seen some posts on other forums of guys being limited to 24 VDC from their solar panels when they are looking at an SCC with an alternator attachment. I’m wondering if this is the case for the one you’re looking at.
 

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My 2005 have a 2005 6.0 F350 and I went through 5 alternators in the first 100,000 miles. I actually carried a spare with me at all times. I finally got fed up and contacted the owner at alternatorparts.com. He can tell you everything you'll ever want to know about alternators. He's been building them for decades. I ordered one through him with a bigger case and upgraded to 160 amps. After three years the internal voltage regulator went out but honestly it happens and it was a $20 part and $20 labor to fix at a local alternator repair shop. If you have a small case alternator it WILL burn up because it can't dissipate the heat from the current it generates. All that being said, find a local alternator/starter repair shop close by. If I had known about the guy near me I would have just had him custom build one.

Cheers!

Dave
 

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My 2005 have a 2005 6.0 F350 and I went through 5 alternators in the first 100,000 miles. I actually carried a spare with me at all times. I finally got fed up and contacted the owner at alternatorparts.com. He can tell you everything you'll ever want to know about alternators. He's been building them for decades. I ordered one through him with a bigger case and upgraded to 160 amps. After three years the internal voltage regulator went out but honestly it happens and it was a $20 part and $20 labor to fix at a local alternator repair shop. If you have a small case alternator it WILL burn up because it can't dissipate the heat from the current it generates. All that being said, find a local alternator/starter repair shop close by. If I had known about the guy near me I would have just had him custom build one.

Cheers!

Dave
Also a worth note: I upgraded to 1/0 welding wire (with soldered copper connectors) between both batteries, battery grounds, and put a 1/0 ground on the back of the alternator. Also added a 1/0 fused + line from alternator to battery that parallels the factory wire. That will help you immensely.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the responses. My coach system isn't quite as big as yours, Chris; 4-100w Renogy panels in parallel, Victron 100/30 MPPT, Multiplus 3000 inverter charger, 500A Smart Shunt, and their Orion DC->DC charger, and 2-Battle Born 100A batteries w/BMS. This will allow me to upgrade to 600w array and 3 batteries if I want. My understanding is the charge profile for the lithium batteries does not like the alternator current (I've seen as high as 14.4v), so the Orion manages that and acts as the disconnect when the engine is off. Battle Born pre-programs everything based on the system you get, but they need to know my alternator amperage to figure which Orion charger and programming. I'm going to email these pictures over to alternatorparts.com. I like the idea of the cable upgrade, as I'll be making 1/0 cables for the coach system.
PXL_20210223_183854622.jpg PXL_20210223_183933570.jpg PXL_20210223_183926408.jpg PXL_20210223_183944649.jpg PXL_20210223_184251482.jpg
 

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Strange that the VIN didn't identify that. I wonder if a dealer could tell you based on the VIN? I would think that info would have to be available somewhere. My 2005 stock alternator was 140A on a single alternator decked out F350. One of the things alternatorparts.com can provide in addition to more amps is an external rectifier for more bridge capacity.
 

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Duggman, it being a 450, it probably has the 130/140 amp OE alternator. If you do ever need to replace it, the Bosch 130/140 new alternator would fit and would carry the full warranty by Bosch considering the 450.
 

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Alternator parts.com can't reply to customer concerns about a janky rectifier they sold me I will not spend any more money there
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I called two local dealers' parts departments, gave them my VIN. They both said the build sheet said it was 110A...So, I have the VIN Decoder over at Ford Truck Enthusiasts saying it's 130A, and local dealers saying it's 110A.
 

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It could be a 110. I could find a rhyme or reason for 110/130 variation, but I've seen more of the 130 when I looked at them. Admittedly, a small sample in one region.

Nevermind. ........

I pulled up my comparison I did between the 110 and 140 Bosch. Based on the keyhole placement on the front cover, yours appears to be a 110. The 140 has larger windings, and therefore a larger case.

773252


773260
 
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