Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum banner

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
ok here goes. i blew the heads off my truck a few months ago while simultaneously destroying my turbo. i went back with o-ring heads, arp studs an air intake, egr delete and reworked garret turbo(upgraded by a shop close to here) and a quadzilla xzillaraider2. i have ran my truck on the dyno at cravens offroad and performance in St charles mo. and put down 495 horse 805 ft pounds to the wheels. im not sure if the truck had injectors in it when i got it or not but i was slipping the clutch on the dyno at 3400rmp and still made that power. it also choaks out from lack of fuel on stock pump at 3-3500 rmp depending on what day it is. so im asuming it had to have bigger injectors in it to begin with to lay down those numbers with 35" tires.
i am soon to buy the SCT laptop tuning system and play with the truck untill its exactly like i want it as well as eventually adding a much larger turbo-intake manifold, up-pipes and manifolds plus bigger injectors once again.

my question to you all is, is the AD150 going to do what i want and what parts other than the pump and a sump kit do i need to install an air dog. what is my best route to go. ive got several thousand dollars to invest in this truck i just want it done right.
im not diesel illiterate as ive been a Caterpillar field service mechanic for two years now. i just need insight on these 6.0's thanks in advance
 

·
WWW.COMPIGNTECH.COM
Joined
·
8,777 Posts
Not to be a dick but you should have came here first before o-ringing you heads and using a quadzilla tuner. Good luck with your truck lasting a long time before it has to come apart again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
the oringing was instructed by a person on another forum as i had initally intended on running nos or propane. since my ideas have changed and ive got heads and gaskets here to go back with.
as far as the quadzilla, i wanted shift on the fly and think plug in tuners are a joke. who wants to pull over and wait 20 mins to retune their truck? i got enough of that crap with my edge on my gas burner. thats not the point of my thread tho, im going with sct now and im trying to decide what fuel system to go to.
also, i would have gone here a long time ago but when i tried i wasnt allowed to post threads or post in them without paying which i thought was bull**** and stayed away from this forum all together only to recently learn i could post without being premium.

ive been searching for several hours now and cant find any threads that answer my questions specifically. thats y i started a new one. any help would be greatly appricated.
 

·
WWW.COMPIGNTECH.COM
Joined
·
8,777 Posts
Well you can think that SCT is a joke all you want but the trans builder of your choice is going to be laughing all the way to the bank when you tell them you had a shift on the fly tuner for your truck when your trans gave out on you. There is a reason that everyone else uses SCT on the 6.0 and it's because the transmission gets tuned in custom tunes as well and it allows the trans to go through a relearn process to adapt to the new power that will be applied to it.
 

·
WWW.COMPIGNTECH.COM
Joined
·
8,777 Posts
To answer your question your going to need more than an AD150 and a sump. Your going to need a RR as well as something along the lines of 1/2" lines to and from the tank and your choice of HP pump along with that AD150. The AD 150 is going to be used as a LP pump to feed the HP pump. It's not going to be cheap what your planning on doing. Your looking at around $1000 or more.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
trans tuning isnt applicable to my situation as my first post states my clutch was slipping, i have a 6 speed. nothing to tune there. and im sold on sct now, i just still think with all the technology out there its ridiculous that no one can make a good shift on the fly, i dont want to get 4 mpg all the time just incase i have to lay it down and smoke out a prius or a neon.
but away from that. the money isnt as big of an issue and the time and labor. i have a powdercoating buisness, and we also specalize in ls series engine swaps and suspension mostly. i am swamped 97.5% of the time and have two kids at home, im more concerned about time factor of it all as apposed to money.
im going to sump it regardless, but would i be better off with an the airdog 2?
and i know i said money isnt a big deal but i just cant justify spending $700 bucks on an rr kit for as little as is actually in them.
is the
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
im not sold on aeromotive products as ive had to replace several Areomotive Stealth pumps from junking on f-bodies.
i know everyone is raving about the A1000, but then im building a complete filter system and repluming everything from scratch which is time. im most interested in something relatively "bolt on" ive already done banjo bolts in the front of the engine. if i can get away with sumping the tank, an df-165, and just building my own harness im fine with that i just havent messed with a 6.0 enough to know whats the best setup here. i do apricate the help
 

·
WWW.COMPIGNTECH.COM
Joined
·
8,777 Posts
trans tuning isnt applicable to my situation as my first post states my clutch was slipping, i have a 6 speed. nothing to tune there. and im sold on sct now, i just still think with all the technology out there its ridiculous that no one can make a good shift on the fly, i dont want to get 4 mpg all the time just incase i have to lay it down and smoke out a prius or a neon.
but away from that. the money isnt as big of an issue and the time and labor. i have a powdercoating buisness, and we also specalize in ls series engine swaps and suspension mostly. i am swamped 97.5% of the time and have two kids at home, im more concerned about time factor of it all as apposed to money.
im going to sump it regardless, but would i be better off with an the airdog 2?
and i know i said money isnt a big deal but i just cant justify spending $700 bucks on an rr kit for as little as is actually in them.
is the
Problem is that if your planning on going with bigger injectors down the road and you won't and don't have time to piss with it you are going to need to add a rr with a sump. I would personally stay away from the AD2 they have been known lately to crap out a lot on guys. Personally if it was me I would do a custom rr kit with fuel bowl delete, 1/2" lines to and from the engine to the tank, a xdp sump, an AD150 and an aeromotive A1000. Using the sump to feed the AD 150 and that to feed the A1000, and then to the heads then the rr back to the tank.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
where can i guy pick the aeromotive up at? im not big on them but they are always good about warrantying the stealth pumps so i guess if thats what i need ill have to try it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
also, i read somewhere were people were using a speed controller or something like that to control the aeromotive, is that necessary?
 

·
WWW.COMPIGNTECH.COM
Joined
·
8,777 Posts
I would say yes because your speed controller is what adjusts your fuel pressure on the fly. You need to be able to maintain a minimum of 60 psi at all times and thats what the speed controller will do. It will adjust how hard the pump is working from differences in engine speed from idle to WOT. Obviously when at WOT the demand for fuel is going to be greater so the pump kicks up from the speed controller to supply the greater demand for fuel and when you let out of it-it slows the pump down as to not over work it and burn it up.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,966 Posts
The reason for the speed controller is so that the pump can run at a reduced speed and not overheat and destroy itself. It is not so much about maintaining fuel pressure.

Your AD150 is a low pressure lift pump whose purpose is to filter and remove entrained air providing pure fuel to the high pressure pump (currently your HFCM). A good alternative to the A1000 is a Fuelab pump and FPR. I just bought a Fuelab Prodigy 41402 high pressure pump and a 51503 FPR to sit in front of my Air Dog. The Fuelab Prodigy has a reduced speed mode that can be hard wired, wired to a switch, or to a PWM digital controller. They make several flow rated pumps. The 41402 pump I bought is rated at 140gph and I will be able to run that in a reduced speed mode which is critical for continuous duty. I believe that it will handle the 205/100's I am putting in at WOT while remaining at reduced speed but if not I will tie the speed control line to the TPS so when I go WOT it kicks up to full speed.

The 51503 FPR is rated to 125 PSI and has 2 -10AN ins and a -6 return, the pump has -10 in and out. You want to plumb the sump to the AD150 with -10 lines, the AD150 to the Prodigy pump with -10 lines, -10 to a check valve then to a Y block -10 in and dual -6 out to the heads. From the back of the heads run to the FPR and return to the tank.

I am using the 51503 FPR because I am going to run my FPR as a pass through before going to the engine. That is the reason for the 2 -10 ports. One will flow in from the pump, one out to the engine and a -6 return. You would use the 51501 FPR with all -6 ins and return for use after the heads.

In any case you will need to totally replumb the system and add an RR. Hope this helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,122 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,816 Posts
ok not to be an *** but you have A LOT to learn about the 6.0 this aint a truck you just wanna bolt **** on and expect to run long. If you want some solid advise call me at 573-253-9155. I live in Jeff City, MO so not far from you. I have a hell of a build currently going on my 6.0 just ask tuscany lol. Also I have a parts currently being shipped to me for my complete custom fuel system build that is going to be replacing every single factory fuel system part all the way from the tank to the engine and back to the tank so I can give u great advice there too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
430 Posts
PGreenSVT
have you heard of weldon fuel pumps the techs there helped me on my mustang build and they told me about heating up the fuel by fitting choice. i.e. 90 degree fittings and small return lines . If i was in the market to do a big fuel system I would use tube style 90's and Y connectors and at a minimum 8 return especially with those 10 feed lines. they also said a pump controller is definitely a must for street driven vehicles! Weldon sells every thing (Pumps, regulators, and controllers) not the lines and fittings but there stuff is really nice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,816 Posts
I'm custom making all my lines myself and running -10AN to a y block before the heads, -6AN into the heads, out of the heads and to the regulator, then -8AN for the return line back to the tank with a sump, custom regulated return, and dual fuel pumps too feed 225/150s all most all of it is going to be braided stainless line
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
430 Posts
That sounds like a good plan.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,966 Posts
PGreenSVT
have you heard of weldon fuel pumps the techs there helped me on my mustang build and they told me about heating up the fuel by fitting choice. i.e. 90 degree fittings and small return lines . If i was in the market to do a big fuel system I would use tube style 90's and Y connectors and at a minimum 8 return especially with those 10 feed lines. they also said a pump controller is definitely a must for street driven vehicles! Weldon sells every thing (Pumps, regulators, and controllers) not the lines and fittings but there stuff is really nice.
Yep, Weldon is pretty well known in the gasser racing world and they do make nice stuff. I looked through their offerings and didn't see a pump that suited what I was looking for. Most of their really high pressure pumps don't have the flow I was looking for and the ones with the flow didn't have the pressure. Their 140gph pump is only rated to 80 psi. Yes that's enough for the 6.0 but it is about at capacity. The Fuelab 41402 I chose puts out 140gph and is rated at 125psi. I expect that is a reduced power mode I will still have adequate fuel for 225/150's which are the biggest I would ever consider and I am currently planning for 205/100's. Running in reduced power mode is critical for continuous operation, so being able to hard wire it to stay in that mode makes things simple. If I start running short up top it is a simple matter to tie it to the TPS and kick it to full power at WOT. No need for a fancy $300+ digital controller.

I also am aware of the fuel heating issue. That's why you want to match you pump to your flow requirements so you aren't just circulating the fuel and heating it up. Running to small lines will contribute to that but what really generates the heat is pressurizing the fuel and then sending it back to the tank. Putting things under pressure causes heat. In my case I can come off of the pump on the engine size at -8 and be fine but since the pump is -10 I will maintain that to the check valve.

Also I am running my FPR in a pass through configuration before the engine and not in blocking mode after the engine so my return is going to be shorter, essentially returning from about the location of the stock HFCM.

These fuel systems really aren't rocket science if you just think them through.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
430 Posts
Hey did you guys know that fuelab has new diesel lift and air separator pumps, a 100gph and a 200gph!
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top