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Discussion Starter #1
Low fuel light was on for about 20 miles. Yea, I know I'm an idiot, but I'm a broke idiot as well.

I made a few stops before fueling, and it started right up as usual. The first time I stopped it after fueling, was when the "fun" began.

Put in key, turn to start, all normal dash lights come on, theft light is blinking normally (slow), and nothing... Can hear some clicking from the drivers side, engine compartment, firewall fusebox, and a brief whirring (motor sound) from in front of the drivers side battery (is that where the fuel pump is?).

Electrical is okay as far as I can tell, but fuel pump is not doing it's normal ~30 second pre start pump.
Opened fuel filter can, and it was full. I then drained it

1. Disconnected the negative cables (hoping for a reboot), and cleaned them up, to no avail...

2.Tried the fuel shutoff switch on passenger side, to no avail...

3.Tried two different, newer sets of ignition keys, to no avail...


What is my next plan of attack?

Maybe the fuel pump fuse, or pump itself ??


Thanks for any help,
 

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Did you run out of fuel before filling up. If so it may take some cranking to get it to fire back up. As you have to prime the injectors.


The fuel pump is located on the Driverside Frame Rail near the driverside front door. The whining noise could have been the fuel pump. There is a relay for the fuel pump I believe it is located in the fuze box under the hood on the driverside fender. There may also be a fuze in the cab of the truck in the fuze panel. Also there is a fuel pump reset button on the passenger side under the dash behind the kick panel.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Didn't run it dry.

The motor is not cranking at all. Turn the key, and get nothing. Not even a solenoid chatter.
 

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If it were me I’d start by checking the batteries then the starter solenoid on the fender then the starter, the fuel system shouldn’t have anything to do with the cranking system. With a volt meter and a friend to turn the key you should be able to find it in a few minutes unless it is computer/theft related.
 

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Didn't run it dry.

The motor is not cranking at all. Turn the key, and get nothing. Not even a solenoid chatter.
Ok I thought it was cranking but not firing.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
All the dash light stay on. The WTS light is also working. Tried moving the gear selector around, even while holding the ignition key in the on position, with no luck (I have an '89 F350 that does this occasionally). The vehicle is parked on a flat surface, wheels are straight.


Should I look under the steering column fuse box first, or the driver's side engine compartment for a bad fuse(s)?

Are there any fuse box "diagrams" online explaining the configuration, and what the fuses go to?
 

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you can try running a wire from the positive on the batt to the solenoid on the starter to rule out the starter or the electrical system, just be sure you dont arc on any grounds
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
If it were me I’d start by checking the batteries then the starter solenoid on the fender then the starter, the fuel system shouldn’t have anything to do with the cranking system. With a volt meter and a friend to turn the key you should be able to find it in a few minutes unless it is computer/theft related.



I can start the Ex by jumping the large terminals on the fenderwall solenoid, so I bought a new Motorcraft solenoid, and installed it, but it still does the same " no start" thing??? I can also jump the terminals in the new one (Hecho en Mexico).
 

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If you can start it by jumping the large ones the next step would be to check and see if your getting both power and ground to the small ones before replacing anything. If no power and ground then trace back twords the computer and ignition switch and permissives.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Which small "ones" are you referring to? The solenoid has two large bolt post terminals, and one smaller one, that has the rubber push-on wire connector.


Thanks
 

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Try between the small one to the bracket that the relay mounts on.
 

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Time to figure out why your not getting power to the little wire, fuses, computer, ignition switch, permissive, etc. All I personally know to do is start testing stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Time to figure out why your not getting power to the little wire, fuses, computer, ignition switch, permissive, etc. All I personally know to do is start testing stuff.



Checked fuse #20, and assorted others that may be related to starting, and all were fine.

Tried starting it this afternoon after checking the fuses, and it started two times each in Park, and Neutral. Then went back to being "dead".


Then I checked the transmission range sensor. Unplugged it, and all connections/pins were clean. Gave the sensor a few taps with a flashlight while under Ex, and gave it another try. It started about six consecutive times in Park, and Neutral, never once shot a blank.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
The Drama Continues:


So, before getting a chance to change out the transmission range sensor, I try to start the Ex the next morning. It tries to crank, but sounds like it's low on battery power, and eventually gives up trying.

Since that fiasco, every time I turn the key forward to the start position the dash lights are dim, and flicker, and the power doors, and power windows do not work. When I turn the key backwards to the ACC position, the power windows, and power door locks work fine.

I double checked the batteries individually, and they are both 13v or more.

I have since taken apart the steering column cover, and unbolted the ignition switch from the column. When I move the ignition switch "lever" forward, I get the same reaction as when moving the key forward; Dim, flickering lights, no power, etc...

Is there a way to check the switch, or do I just replace it for $30.00?
 
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