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Greetings Folks
First let me say thanks to all who donate their time and share the knowledge to help folks like myself with what must seem to be questions with redundancy. I have just recently inherited my Pop's Truck with the aforementioned info. late Dec of 2006 it had 5200 miles. Now has like 18,520 . been serviced at the required specs. the oil was just changed two days ago with Rotella T 5-40 and fuel filters were changed. the one of the things is they put a mobil-1 oil filter in it. ( the truck is on the far west coast and i am on the east coast so wasn't there to question . Mom has done a great job maintaining the truck however to the quirks of the 6.0 she has no idea) after reading and am currently reading the monitoring Sticky by Colo Dually ( which is amazing) and in my first post with tips given by Bismic ( Mark) and Zmann and others . Mark very highly recommends getting the BPD EGR cooler and if needed to use OEM oil cooler. My questions are as follows
#1 I know that the coolant has not been changed,which will be done as soon as i get out to pick up truck and plan to add coolant filter at that time.That said because of just time passed by and not break down from use : Do you guys think that at i neeed to really stress about possible oil cooler failure at this time?
#2 If by flushing coolant system ( I am not in favor of chemical flushes unless absolutely necessary) Am i just going to cause expedited issues : ie oil cooler clogging from flush, EGR cooler clogging from flush . I want to get the oem coolant out of it asap. Or under my circumstances just do the flush to get the Gold out and ELC back in? i really can't afford to purchase an oil/EGR cooler at this time ( unless in an engine saving situation ) due to two cross country trips. I this it might be okay to just drive it home with the Gold in it,however after READING everything ( it is a lot to absorb) ( I am sure that alot of other folks feel this way) It is like I am almost afraid to turn the Key to start the truck.
#3 for me if i go with the EGR cooler now is there a way to pull oil cooler and try to flush/clean it out removed from the engine and is this something that should be attempted?
#4 right now i have to go with either the torque or the forscan app for monitoring these at least help me keep an eye on EOT and ECT.
Thanks everyone
On a side note I am a unfortunately Retired OTR Trucker ( the dreaded Insulin Needle, cant drive commercial vehicle if you take Injected Insulin) with over thirty years of Beating up and down the highways of Our Great Country. I have had Detroit's That if (all ECTs) it was at 199 you had better be headed fro the side of the road . Cummins from 290 to current 600+ HP Temps from 180-215ish , Cats older run 195-200 I Had one 325HP that would not run worth a Damn Until she was about 224 and then it came alive. Point of this Banter is that to Diesel Engines A Stranger I am not! The 6.0 Very stressing Maybe just Sensory overload. LOL

Reverend Doctor Captain " Mister Longjohn"
 

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Greetings Folks
First let me say thanks to all who donate their time and share the knowledge to help folks like myself with what must seem to be questions with redundancy. I have just recently inherited my Pop's Truck with the aforementioned info. late Dec of 2006 it had 5200 miles. Now has like 18,520 . been serviced at the required specs. the oil was just changed two days ago with Rotella T 5-40 and fuel filters were changed. the one of the things is they put a mobil-1 oil filter in it. ( the truck is on the far west coast and i am on the east coast so wasn't there to question . Mom has done a great job maintaining the truck however to the quirks of the 6.0 she has no idea) after reading and am currently reading the monitoring Sticky by Colo Dually ( which is amazing) and in my first post with tips given by Bismic ( Mark) and Zmann and others . Mark very highly recommends getting the BPD EGR cooler and if needed to use OEM oil cooler. My questions are as follows
#1 I know that the coolant has not been changed,which will be done as soon as i get out to pick up truck and plan to add coolant filter at that time.That said because of just time passed by and not break down from use : Do you guys think that at i neeed to really stress about possible oil cooler failure at this time?
#2 If by flushing coolant system ( I am not in favor of chemical flushes unless absolutely necessary) Am i just going to cause expedited issues : ie oil cooler clogging from flush, EGR cooler clogging from flush . I want to get the oem coolant out of it asap. Or under my circumstances just do the flush to get the Gold out and ELC back in? i really can't afford to purchase an oil/EGR cooler at this time ( unless in an engine saving situation ) due to two cross country trips. I this it might be okay to just drive it home with the Gold in it,however after READING everything ( it is a lot to absorb) ( I am sure that alot of other folks feel this way) It is like I am almost afraid to turn the Key to start the truck.
#3 for me if i go with the EGR cooler now is there a way to pull oil cooler and try to flush/clean it out removed from the engine and is this something that should be attempted?
#4 right now i have to go with either the torque or the forscan app for monitoring these at least help me keep an eye on EOT and ECT.
Thanks everyone
On a side note I am a unfortunately Retired OTR Trucker ( the dreaded Insulin Needle, cant drive commercial vehicle if you take Injected Insulin) with over thirty years of Beating up and down the highways of Our Great Country. I have had Detroit's That if (all ECTs) it was at 199 you had better be headed fro the side of the road . Cummins from 290 to current 600+ HP Temps from 180-215ish , Cats older run 195-200 I Had one 325HP that would not run worth a Damn Until she was about 224 and then it came alive. Point of this Banter is that to Diesel Engines A Stranger I am not! The 6.0 Very stressing Maybe just Sensory overload. LOL

Reverend Doctor Captain " Mister Longjohn"
Just go with the factory recomended changes. I have always used oem parts . but i do use 100% synthetic lubricants everywhere and have not had any issues except injectors. I almost did the chemical flushing of the cooling system years ago even bought the stuff but never did. Ford designed this truck to last a long time and there service recommendations are designed to see that it does. When you start doing things outside of the engineers design specs you open yourself up for all kinds of issues. In your case i would chande all fluids dif's transfer case tranny and filters because of the years and stick to oem on everything except maybe using 100% syn fluids. Ford now has a good oem 100% syn motor oil for your engine i started using as soon as it came on the market.
She will last you a long long time if you care for her properly
 
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Personally like you have said a few times I would make sure I got a good coolant filter on it for the trip home. If there is an issue in the middle of no where on the way home it is a lot easier to change a filter than to change the oil cooler. I think you are on the right track with what you plan on doing with flushing it and everything else. But again if you do flush it I would definitely not head out without Coolant filtration, God only knows what you may knock loose after flushing. Your Forscan or Torque app for monitoring will be good for your trip. The only thing you can't monitor that could be relevant is fuel pressure. You also can't monitor EGTs with that without a sensor installed but being a stock truck you shouldn't have to worry about EGT. Good luck man still very jealous of you and your truck lol.
 

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If it were me, I'd flush the coolant system, throw a coolant filtration system on there swap the coolant to an ELC, blue spring upgrade the fuel system, and drive it. Since it's a n '05, I might consider the FICM upgrade.

Make sure to change the filters regularly.. I do the coolant filter one oil change, and the fuel filters the next.. alternate back and forth. I go 7500 on an oil change so both of the are swapped every 15k.

I also use T6 5w40, have had several oil analysis completed and have been told I can go further but choose not to.

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If the oil and coolant temperature differential is in spec (and I can't imagine you would have an issue at that low mileage), just flush with distilled water (no chemicals) and change to the EC-1 rated ELC coolant.

Monitor your coolant and oil temps and post the numbers. Spec is 15 degree differential after the engine has totally warmed up. I bet it is just fine and that you don't need to worry about it.

That EGR cooler is another story. It is a weak link IMO and needs to be changed out as soon as you can.
 
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If the oil and coolant temperature differential is in spec (and I can't imagine you would have an issue at that low mileage), just flush with distilled water (no chemicals) and change to the EC-1 rated ELC coolant.

Monitor your coolant and oil temps and post the numbers. Spec is 15 degree differential after the engine has totally warmed up. I bet it is just fine and that you don't need to worry about it.

That EGR cooler is another story. It is a weak link IMO and needs to be changed out as soon as you can.
Mine was just checked by the dealer at injector change and he said it looked perfect. I think the fuel additives have helped keep it clean and live.
 

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I hear ya - I just don't trust the 05 and up EGR coolers, clean or not. No doubt that a plugged oil cooler that is blocking coolant flow to the EGR cooler makes it many times worse, but many people have had failed EGR coolers with no explanation as to why (ie they had perfectly healthy oil coolers).
 

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I hear ya - I just don't trust the 05 and up EGR coolers, clean or not. No doubt that a plugged oil cooler that is blocking coolant flow to the EGR cooler makes it many times worse, but many people have had failed EGR coolers with no explanation as to why (ie they had perfectly healthy oil coolers).
Yep, and thats the scary part. Every time i get in mine I'm always waiting to see signs of impending doom and i hate the feeling. Guess thats why i let the dealer do most servicing anymore. If i didn't have to remove the cab to work on it properly i would have long ago torn it apart and gone through everything even with no symptoms. What i like about my jeep trail hawk is you can look at any temp you wish right on the dash between the tach and speedo. Nice feature wish all cars came with that. No exhaust temp
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just go with the factory recomended changes. I have always used oem parts . but i do use 100% synthetic lubricants everywhere and have not had any issues except injectors. I almost did the chemical flushing of the cooling system years ago even bought the stuff but never did. Ford designed this truck to last a long time and there service recommendations are designed to see that it does. When you start doing things outside of the engineers design specs you open yourself up for all kinds of issues. In your case i would chande all fluids dif's transfer case tranny and filters because of the years and stick to oem on everything except maybe using 100% syn fluids. Ford now has a good oem 100% syn motor oil for your engine i started using as soon as it came on the market.
She will last you a long long time if you care for her properly
Britt we used to use nothing mobil 1 and everything else was Motorcraft in my sons Focus and believe it or not it paid off Ford ended up with a settlement offer instead of buying the car back. I mentioned that it was serviced on Monday so i called the lube place Mom took it to and ask if with Mobil-one filter came with its own oil filter cap, so i asked the guy what do you do with one that was on the Truck,Oh we just toss them on the trash. I asked dont you think the owner might want it back/Oh I better get the owner to call you...so I will try to find an OEM oilfilter cap.and put a motorcraft filter in. Does any one have any idea how much oil does the 6.0 cartridge filter hold? and when i start to take the cap up and it releases the drain valve so it drain in the Base pan? if it is close to a half quart it will be just right to add Archoil 9100.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Personally like you have said a few times I would make sure I got a good coolant filter on it for the trip home. If there is an issue in the middle of no where on the way home it is a lot easier to change a filter than to change the oil cooler. I think you are on the right track with what you plan on doing with flushing it and everything else. But again if you do flush it I would definitely not head out without Coolant filtration, God only knows what you may knock loose after flushing. Your Forscan or Torque app for monitoring will be good for your trip. The only thing you can't monitor that could be relevant is fuel pressure. You also can't monitor EGTs with that without a sensor installed but being a stock truck you shouldn't have to worry about EGT. Good luck man still very jealous of you and your truck lol.
Thanks Brother! I will post some better photos as soon as i get her dolled all up!
 

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I hear ya - I just don't trust the 05 and up EGR coolers, clean or not. No doubt that a plugged oil cooler that is blocking coolant flow to the EGR cooler makes it many times worse, but many people have had failed EGR coolers with no explanation as to why (ie they had perfectly healthy oil coolers).
Thanks Mark. I plan to do the EGR cooler asap.Question though I can take the EGR Valve at every oil change and check and clean it if it proves needed even with the EGR cooler from BPD what do i do about the EGR leave or delete it and if i delete it not having a tuner i cant turn off the CEL. I did read some where that some guys are (correct me if i am wrong here) like cuuting the valve off and leaving the top part with the plug so the computer thinks the EGR is there?
 

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Oil capacity is 15 qts. You'd want to reduce the amount of oil by the volume of additive you use.

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Britt we used to use nothing mobil 1 and everything else was Motorcraft in my sons Focus and believe it or not it paid off Ford ended up with a settlement offer instead of buying the car back. I mentioned that it was serviced on Monday so i called the lube place Mom took it to and ask if with Mobil-one filter came with its own oil filter cap, so i asked the guy what do you do with one that was on the Truck,Oh we just toss them on the trash. I asked dont you think the owner might want it back/Oh I better get the owner to call you...so I will try to find an OEM oilfilter cap.and put a motorcraft filter in. Does any one have any idea how much oil does the 6.0 cartridge filter hold? and when i start to take the cap up and it releases the drain valve so it drain in the Base pan? if it is close to a half quart it will be just right to add Archoil 9100.
T'm sure it would hold 1/2 quart, But dosent the filter housing leak down into the engine and wont hold the A 9100.
Why did they buy back your focus. I've had two new focuses last one i still have is an 18
 

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T'm sure it would hold 1/2 quart, But dosent the filter housing leak down into the engine and wont hold the A 9100.
Why did they buy back your focus. I've had two new focuses last one i still have is an 18
Sorry folks.. there's no way you're going to get that A9100 to stay inside the filter unless you turn the truck upside down..

Are you being serious? Maybe I'm missing something.

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Britt we used to use nothing mobil 1 and everything else was Motorcraft in my sons Focus and believe it or not it paid off Ford ended up with a settlement offer instead of buying the car back. I mentioned that it was serviced on Monday so i called the lube place Mom took it to and ask if with Mobil-one filter came with its own oil filter cap, so i asked the guy what do you do with one that was on the Truck,Oh we just toss them on the trash. I asked dont you think the owner might want it back/Oh I better get the owner to call you...so I will try to find an OEM oilfilter cap.and put a motorcraft filter in. Does any one have any idea how much oil does the 6.0 cartridge filter hold? and when i start to take the cap up and it releases the drain valve so it drain in the Base pan? if it is close to a half quart it will be just right to add Archoil 9100.
The empty oil filter housing holds about a quart. When you remove the cap, the oil filter housing just drains to the crankcase and then to the pan, so you can add what you want and it will drain down quickly enough.

A lot of us have installed fumoto valves on the oil pan to make it even easier to drain the pan. With that valve, it is easy to remove a small and measured amount from the pan.

Don't ever take the 6.0L to a "Lube Place". Throwing away the OEM cap without asking the owners permission is a horrible practice, but is common for places like that.
 
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Thanks Mark. I plan to do the EGR cooler asap.Question though I can take the EGR Valve at every oil change and check and clean it if it proves needed even with the EGR cooler from BPD what do i do about the EGR leave or delete it and if i delete it not having a tuner i cant turn off the CEL. I did read some where that some guys are (correct me if i am wrong here) like cuuting the valve off and leaving the top part with the plug so the computer thinks the EGR is there?
Since you really can't get an EGR delete tune anymore, I would just keep the EGR valve in place and active. Periodic cleaning may be needed, but many people have ruined their EGR valve by improper cleaning. Use Carb Cleaner (Brake Kleen is hard on the seals AND on the electronics). Even using Carb Cleaner, you need to avoid getting any of the cleaner up into the solenoid body. Most people put the cleaner in a jar and lower the valve into the cleaner making sure that the cleaner level always stays just below the solenoid body.
 
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Sorry folks.. there's no way you're going to get that A9100 to stay inside the filter unless you turn the truck upside down..

Are you being serious? Maybe I'm missing something.

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007, what i meant was that after i replaced the filter with a Motorcraft one was that i could the add the Archoil ( by the oil fill tube ) and then i would be topped off ,correct filter and have 16oz of additive .
 

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Yep, and thats the scary part. Every time i get in mine I'm always waiting to see signs of impending doom and i hate the feeling. Guess thats why i let the dealer do most servicing anymore. If i didn't have to remove the cab to work on it properly i would have long ago torn it apart and gone through everything even with no symptoms. What i like about my jeep trail hawk is you can look at any temp you wish right on the dash between the tach and speedo. Nice feature wish all cars came with that. No exhaust temp
You don't have to take the cab off until your into the bigger jobs, like new heads. Even a lot of the bigger jobs can be done cab on.
 

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I would do as little as possible before taking a long trip like that. Never tear into stuff close to leaving. Always a month before. I slowly dumped 5 qts of oil from an extra oil filter gasket stuck to the block on a trip to fla. In my mustang 30 years ago. Learned my lesson. On the egr, if you ever seen what the inside of the intake looks like after 50k you will cap that pipe off and never look back.
 

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007, what i meant was that after i replaced the filter with a Motorcraft one was that i could the add the Archoil ( by the oil fill tube ) and then i would be topped off ,correct filter and have 16oz of additive .
So, the filter doesn't hold oil, when you remove it, the same amount of oil is still in the truck.
If I'm reading this right, your going to Cali, picking up the truck and driving back to the East coast somewhere. Is that correct?
If so, do like bismic said. Basic flush and fill in the coolant and fix the oil filter BS. It's a good idea to have your monitor set up before you head to Cali.
Since your doing a basic flush and fill, no need to do the coolant filter asap, it'll wait, in fact, unless your going to tune the truck and drive 100mph across the country, I would sweat the bigger issues. Usually, being prepared for the inevitable (mentally) is good. You understand the problems the 6.0 has, or might have. Don't worry about these until you get it home.
So, for the drive home; flush and fill the coolant with elc (this will take a good part of a day), I'd recommend getting a fumoto valve for the passenger side drain so the starter only has to come out once (drivers side is a piece of cake). New Motorcraft oil filter, oem style cap (most parts stores will have the cap it doesn't need to be Motorcraft, just oem style. Motorcraft is best though (dealer part). The oil cap socket can be bought at parts stores as well. Replace the fuel filters, buy 2 sets, one for before the drive, one just in case yours plugs up on the way home. There is an updated drain plug for the ficm, get one, use it. The stock unit will most likely be bad and leak. I'd use a good fuel conditioner for the first tank of fuel, if not all the tanks, on your drive home. It is especially important to only buy good fuel (no AM PM diesel). High volume stations are your best bet, ie Costco, truck stops etc.
This might seem like a lot, but you're ready to drive home with a day of prep.

When you get it home, that's when you do the bigger stuff. BPD egr cooler, the egr valve doesn't seem to have a bunch of problems, it the cooler that fails. Coolant filter (I'd do the ipr full flow unit). Oil cooler if the temp diff is off by 15° doing 60 on flat ground in "normal" heat (not 100° Temps, but, say 80°).
By waiting on the two coolers, you have time to save up and do 1) BPD egr cooler and 2)BPD remote oil cooler or air to oil cooler.
Your truck should be gtg after these things.
Please, understand that if the egr cooler goes, you'll be doing head gaskets, studs, injectors and (possibly) heads. That is the #1 killer of these motors (the egr cooler failing). I still wouldn't sweat that for an empty, un-tuned drive home. These trucks are pretty fast and it's easy to hit the 99mph limiter, try not to do that.

So, coolant, filters, good fuel, drive.
 
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