[Fordracinjunkie]

I want to add some LED back up lights. Can these be powered by the circuit for the existing back up lights or should I install a power wire and a relay? I would also like to add a override switch in the cab to turn them on. What would be the best way to do it.

 

[SuperCrutyPS]

Short answer: you can probably run the lights off the BU circuit.

If you're going to do a switch, I would run a relay. You can get a SPDT (Single pole-double throw) switch to do what you want. You hook up the BU circuit to one end of the switch, power to the other end and the wire to the lights come off the middle. So, when in one position, the lights would work with the BU circuit only. In the other position, it would turn on the lights when you wanted to. When running manually, you would have to remember to turn them off. Many states, California where I'm from included, rules say Auxiliary BU light can operate only when in reverse. If you're not familiar with them, Google SPDT switches. It will give you visual.

 

[HeavyAssault]

You already gave indication you want a switch in the cab. Build your own harness w/relay, install the switch. Done.

 

[TooManyToys]

Mine are halogen, so I needed more power when I installed them. In NJ, aux lights can only be on with the normal reverse lights, so I wired as such.

The relay is located in the cavity behind the taillight. Power for the lights are connected from the trailer reverse lights wire, relay coil positive trigger off the normal reverse light wire, the relay ground wire is what goes up to the cab where a Single Pole, Single Throw switch is that grounds the relay coil when you want them (always).

 

[Fordracinjunkie]

Thank you all for replying ang great ideas. It gives me some food for thought.

 

[The Evil Twin]

Do you have upfitter switches?

 

[Fordracinjunkie]

Do you have upfitter switches?

I put in 5 switches that control relays

 

[The Evil Twin]

Easy enough then. Just tap off of the trailer harness reverse light wire for automatic. You will have to add a diode to prevent backfeed when using the manual (relay) mode. Then tie in one of your relays.
The diode I use is a 15SQ045. Probably bigger than needed since LED are low amp draw but I like to size them for the wire capacity and not the load.

 

[Fordracinjunkie]

Just what I was looking for. I wasn’t sure about the diode I didn’t know if it would back feed anything that it would hurt. The diode would just be an extra safety measure just to make sure nothing gets hurt.

 

[JustinOOO9]

I want to add some LED back up lights. Can these be powered by the circuit for the existing back up lights or should I install a power wire and a relay? I would also like to add a override switch in the cab to turn them on. What would be the best way to do it.

If you want super quick/easy harbor freight sells some led box lights and led light bars and a harness with a switch, ground and fuse etc. Just wire up if you only want the switch ability or splice if you want to wire it up with the oem back up lights.

Off-Road Light Wiring Kit

Light Bar Wiring Kit

www.harborfreight.com

3 in. LED Flood Light

965 Lumens 3 in. Flood Light

www.harborfreight.com

just in case you wanted some material and stuff.

 

[timatoe]

I ran a new 12v line to the back as well as a line from the upfitter switch, used one of these that I already had and a relay. I tapped the reverse light line to trigger the relay to activate the new LED's when in reverse and use the line from the upfitter to trigger the relay otherwise. The diode just prevents backfeed into the system.

 

[Fordracinjunkie]

My ultimate goal is I have an adjustable timer that will trigger with a momentary switch that has power all the time. So I can just tap the switch lights will come on for about 15 or 20 minutes and then go off on there own. Might even put the switch in one of the holes in the bed by the tail light. That way I don’t have to think about it. It is so I can can have light to hook my trailer and walk away and not worry about it and still have them come on while in reverse. A lot of the time I hook up the trailer the night before. This way I can back up shut my truck off lock it and not get back in and I’m not sucking down diesel fumes in the process.

 

[The Evil Twin]

My ultimate goal is I have an adjustable timer that will trigger with a momentary switch that has power all the time. So I can just tap the switch lights will come on for about 15 or 20 minutes and then go off on there own. Might even put the switch in one of the holes in the bed by the tail light. That way I don’t have to think about it. It is so I can can have light to hook my trailer and walk away and not worry about it and still have them come on while in reverse. A lot of the time I hook up the trailer the night before. This way I can back up shut my truck off lock it and not get back in and I’m not sucking down diesel fumes in the process.

That makes things more interesting. Your switch will have to have power when the key is off. So will the light relay. If you installed the Ford switch panel (upfitters) then they will only work with key on. Still totally doable. A defrost controller would be the easiest way to time out the lights. You might find them in the weatherproof variety. Most delay-off relays are probably going to need a weathertight enclosure.
As for the diode; it may or may not be necessary on the factory reverse light tap. I always put them in to prevent the vehicle from freaking out and shutting down the power to the trailer harness.

 

[Fordracinjunkie]

My truck is an 04 no upfitter switches I installed these I can wire them any way I want

 

[The Evil Twin]

Doh! Helps if I read the section of the forum this post is in. Yeah, if you wire those to the key (or hot) and the momentary switch/ time delay relay to the battery then it will work fine.
I like the bunny switch!

 

[Fordracinjunkie]

First switch is for blue wire to control cooling fan second switch is for high idle

 

[The Evil Twin]

Where did you pick the cluster up? I dig it. Looks good!

 

[Fordracinjunkie]

I bought a 5 switch cluster from NLight which has an aluminum frame then a lot of grinding filing and fitting to make it wedge in. Then I made a hole in the top back corner to pass all the wiring though. It can be removed and you would never know it was ever there

 

[Fordracinjunkie]

I think I’m going with this setup I’m going to put a momentary switch in the existing hole at the back of the bed just below the stake pocket. The timer and relay will be weather proofed and tucked in behind the tail light. I’ll just be able to reach in the bed push the switch and the lights will come on and time out.

 

[The Evil Twin]

That looks like it will work as you want it to. The only thing is that the factory reverse lights will come on with the momentary latch circuit too. Should not be an issue though.