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Discussion Starter #1
2013 F250 CCSB bought September of lasts year, ac was cooling like a champ - 142k on the clock no apparent leaks under the truck. AC not used much between November and Feb and I come to find out I have no cold air. I put a can of “high mileage” r134a with stop leak in and viola cools right down. Lasted roughly a month and back to blowing warm. Put another can in and cools right back down - however I glance under the truck and it is dripping what I can only assume to be Freon at a rapid pace, not enough run time to be water condensing. It is running down the passenger side frame rail.

I am assuming the evaporator core is toast.

1. Any idea what that job runs dollar wise?

2. Anyone ever heard of the issue being a simple leak at a line or fitting?

Trying to get this nailed down before summer really heats up in Houston.



Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Find the origin of the leak.

Are you checking your pressures or just dumping cans in?
Checking pressures - one can brings it back to ~35 psi


No apparent leaks on the top side/low port or up front at the compressor. Really showing under the passenger side door frame rail.
 

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Freon don't drip. Unless it's under pressure, it's a gas.
 

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Freon don't drip. Unless it's under pressure, it's a gas.
Perhaps poor choice of descriptors. Something is dripping and seems to be related to the ac system. There is also a green tinge to whatever it is as I can see it on the frame rails.
 

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The green tinge is from the dye in the stop leak.

I'd think if it was leaking bad enough for the PAG oil to be dripping, a top off can wouldn't last very long. If it is oil, stop using the A/C until you get the leak fixed, because you are low on oil and will probably seize the compressor. It doesn't take long for the condensation to start running off of the evaporator, especially in humid conditions. Houston is often pretty humid.

In any case, if you're getting the greenish liquid in the area where the evaporator would normally drain, it may very well be the evaporator.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
confirmed with the shop, evaporator is the culprit. Now to find a shop that wont try to charge me 1600 just for the labor.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
sorry for the double post. I found another shop that is much more reasonable - any other parts i need to replace while i am in there doing the evap?
 

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I just had to replace my evaporator coil on my 2012 with 170,000. It was a beast of a job. Whole front inside of cab had to come out. $1000 labor. We replaced all the blower motors, heater core, etc to hopefully avoid having to go back inside of the dash. $2000 total job. Ugh. This new trucks are too complicated.
 
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