[GorillaNuts]

drove this 2006 f250 6.0 couple weeks ago home from an auction a province over (about 6 hours). Truck had been sitting at an auction for a couple weeks, started fine.

brought it home, fixed somethings like vac line system, interior blower motor replaced.

truck then sat for 4 days over the long weekend. went to start it tuesday morning and click click click etc.

Boost it and bring it into my shop (farmer) and i unhook the passenger side negative and then unhook the driver side negative. put a test light between negative cable and negative post on driver battery and it lights up.

Light does not seem to get any brighter when opening doors but does get brighter when pushing the power seat buttons.

I put a meter between negative cable and post this time, doesn'nt seem to read any amps(????) but is sitting a 7volt drain.

I have unplugged every single fuse on this truck (interior driver fuse panel, under hood panel and fuses behind glove box) and i can not get this test light to go out (I did have door latch closed and interior light taken out to insure the door light wasn't screwing things up)

I also unplugged both alternator wires and not dice. Battery's test well under load and are charged. System charges at just over 14v.

Really baffled by pulling every single fuse and this frickin light wont go off, I dont know what it could be.

help please before i loose my mind.....

 

[Bluedemon6.0]

I miss read your post. I thought you had a battery drain issue but you already know you have a short to ground some where. I would disconnect all your chassey grounds till you find the one shorting out. I know that is a pain in the a$$ but you sound like you have a wire issue some where. How many olms is between your chassey ground your pos. cable? Maybe your alternator is fried, try disconnecting your alternator and see if it still lights. All I got for right now. Keep us posted

 

[RatherBNtheWoods]

If you have every fuse removed and still have current, I would say to unplug the glow plug module, unplug the FICM and the PCM. Maybe one at a time to see if or which one has an effect.
And remove all relays in the power dist box.
On edit, and after thought, you may be able to pull the FICM relay, instead of unplugging the FICM.

 

[GorillaNuts]

Thanks fella's, I'm working nights right now so I'm going to try all this wheni get home.

Thanks again.

 

[RatherBNtheWoods]

Man he sure works long hours. ha

 

[Rivan]

Sorry for resurrecting an old thread but I want to know if this issue got resolved or what? I was getting some issues with my batteries draining over night and not being able to turn over, so I did the same thing to diagnose where the draw was in the system. One thing I did was made sure the battery was connected long enough for the PCM to shut down (or so I was told to do so) before taking the negative terminal off and connecting with the test light. After a long time and a lot of frustration, I finally saw the light go out when I pulled a 10A fuse that says its labelled for the instrument cluster, yet with the fuse unplugged, my instrument cluster still works fine, the only difference I noticed with the fuse pulled out is that the instrument needles dance a jig while I wait for the glow plugs to warm up….and oh yeah, after I turn the engine off, my radio doesn’t stay on and cant roll up/down the windows, which before used to stay on until the door opens.