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Discussion Starter #1
My truck is about to hit 200k and lately when I first leave out after the truck has sit overnight or all day at work after a couple miles if I am barely pressing the throttle the truck will start to skip and stutter. If I press the throttle a little harder it clears up and once I have driven 5 or 6 miles it runs with no problems. It always cranks easily and temperature doesn't seem to affect the problem. Installed a new cps from ford about 3k miles ago and no difference. Not sure if it's related but the only other issue is the wipers completely shuts the truck off every few minutes of running even if i turn them on when its dry out. I'm trying to stay away from the dealership so any help would be appreciated.
 

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WNY Biodiesel Co-op
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The wiper motor has been known to affect certain CPS, something to do with the electromagnetic field . Not all CPS are affected , not sure if its from a few different manufacturers or just some random CPS. Did you unplug the exhaust back pressure valve?
It could be closing slightly when cold causing the stutter and skip.
 

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you would hear the ebv plain as day... there is no mistaking that hiss. . . has you ever ha the injectors changed or cleaned? also the stutter kinda sounds like the fuel heater ring died on you. cold fuel.... cold motor..... poor atomization...... stutter.....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I forgot to put it in the original message but I did have a buzz test done and all checked out ok. The only code was an ebpv code so I will unplug that this evening just haven't heard any noise from it so I didn't really pay that code any attention. As far as the fuel heater ring the temps have been in the upper 90's to 100's until the last couple weeks and I still had the issue then so does the heater still sound like a possible culprit? If so is there a way to check other than just replacing mine?
 

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The fuel ring heater that astainsoul5446 is referring to ,is inside the fuel bowl, under the fuel filter. This heater will usually blow a fuse ,#30 (maxi fuse 30A , in the distribution box near the hydroboost ) I think on my 2000. Which will shut down the truck. I never had heard this causing a stutter etc. When It blows .It shuts down the power to the PCM .
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I unplugged the ebpv and nothing changed? Looks like I may have to bite the bullet and go to the dealership. Any chance I may have injectors going down? Just seems weird to me that it runs so well for a few miles then stutters then all clears up again.
 

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The wiper motor has been known to affect certain CPS, something to do with the electromagnetic field . Not all CPS are affected , not sure if its from a few different manufacturers or just some random CPS.
This sounds too crazy to be true, but I have read and heard a few people on this and other forums ,confirm the fact that the wipers do affect the CPS. You experienced that yourself.
I just changed a cps on my neighbors '95 F250,. He said the truck will just shut down when cold and lately at all random times, but it would always restart. I asked If he used the wipers in the morning to clear the dew and he said thats when the truck usually shuts down. I'll let you know if this solves his problem. If it were my truck , I'd change the cps ,only a $20 part.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
yep mine does the exact same thing only thing is cps was already changed but if it fixes his i would be willing to try another one. Keep me updated please
 

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Talked to my neighbor tonight, his '95 runs great . No stalling or stuttering ,no problems with using the wipers. The $20 fix.
 

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Mine has 450,000 on it and it runs a little rough when cold after warm up it's ok . I just let it warm up and then go, I remember ten years ago all diesels were allowed to warm up before driving. Diesel fuel don't combust as well when cold
 

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It was gray from the local International dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I put on a new CPS and it seems to have fixed the wiper issue but I still have the stuttering problem so I will have the dealership do diagnostics today and see what they come up with.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I took my truck to the dealership and all I got from them was they "believe" its an injector going bad but they couldn't figure out which one. They also didn't charge me for the tests so I am not too confident in what they are saying. If an injector is bad shouldn't it run bad all the time? Just trying to get some input before I sink the money into new injectors that might not really be bad.
 

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Did the dealer do a contribution test? If you invest in the Autoenginuity , you can diagnose your problem along with the help of the people on this forum. I'm sorry ,but I don't have any faith in the dealership. They will want to put in injectors at the cost of about $400. Of course they will replace the bad injector, but do you want to invest $3000. Granted you may have a failing injector and all will need to be replaced if they are original with 200K.I But I would think that a contribution test done when cold will give you a good idea which injector to replace.
 

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Where are you located? Maybe there is somebody close by that can scan your truck and do a contribution test. I don't know what your mechanical abilities are but this is not a big project to tackle.Taking off the valve cover and replacing an injector or 2 , maybe the UVCH just because you are in there, would take about 2 hrs time and cost about $300 plus your time .
 

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PM m-chan68 he is the guy that can give you the right advice.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
ok thanks I can handle the replacement if it's just one but I have another diesel shop local so I'm gonna let them check it out and see what they think. Just by talking to the guy he doesn't sound confident in the dealership either and wants to check it out before I do anything so I'll post up his findings in a few days maybe.
 
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