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Discussion Starter #1
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long story short, I had the intermittent stop start while driving at first. Then eventually the truck died and wouldnt start.
I have installed a new
ICP and pigtail
EBPV
IPR
Valve cover gasket harnesses
IDM
two new injectors
Used Hpop
new hpop lines
hutch gas tank mod
universal frame mounted water separator filter
new frame mounted fuel pump
new fuel bowl heating element

Have dont wire harness tests with power probe and test light
All glow plugs, injectors and wiring test came back with in specifications

i started the other day but was very rough and stalled shortly there after. There was no throttle response at all.
I also have a screenshot of my torque ap when i tried starting it.

hoping i didnt fry my new IDM somehow.

any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks

i live in northern idaho if anyone is local.
 

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I can’t view the picture, but one key sensor you have left out is the CPS. If you haven’t changed it, that would have been the first thing I’d have done


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Where in North ID are you? Also what year is it? When you are trying to start how does it go:

i.e. does it just crank with the starter and there is or is not any smoke?
does the wait to start light come on when the key is first turned to on and not cranking yet?
Are you running a chip or flash tuner/programmer?
What happened initially? it died while driving, just wouldn't start one day or?
 

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p.s. hook your batteries on a tender/charger if the batteries are too low it wont spin the motor over fast enough for the cps to read causing a no start as well etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
im in kellogg, Idaho

it died while driving. its a 99, no turner or chip.
The WTS light as well as all dash lights come on when i turn the key. sometimes theres no smoke when starting but mostly there is.

i have a video of it started the other day but i cant load it on here.
This picture i posted is from my torque app while trying to start it.
 

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After putting mine back together the nut on my IPR has fallen off and the solenoid was hanging on by a thread. I had the same symptoms. Worth a look. Good luck


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@NoRalPh take a look at these numbers, I'm thinking the low voltage is confusing the computer, or possibly there is no fuel pressure
EBP 7.9 psi?? -- seems a lot high for cranking, unless the sensor is "off"
InjPW 2472 -- should be getting injection ...if there is any fuel to the injectors
VBatt 8.8 volts -- yeah, that is a problem right there
34F there today, curious if the glow plugs work at all
 

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Discussion Starter #10
new glow plug solenoid and have ohmd all the glow plugs. even took them out and put power to them to see if they get hot.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
idk why there would be no fule pressure. i have new fuel pump. took out the screens from the tank sending unit and lengthened the draw tube and return line. installed a water separator on the frame in between fuel pump and tank.
Need to get a shrader valve and check it, the fuel pressure gague you can rent never had the proper adapter.
 

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Have you tested the large posts on the glow plug solenoid to see if it is operating at key on?
The voltage is too low, I suggest checking the cables(both ends) especially the grounds where they connect to the frame and block
Test the battery voltage while cranking at the posts -- if they are low, less than 10 volts -- either charge or replace
since you are getting injector pulse, and high pressure oil - should be getting fuel in the cylinders -- see lots of smoke?
if so, then glow plugs are not working or no compression -- engine crank over "evenly"??
 

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@NoRalPh take a look at these numbers, I'm thinking the low voltage is confusing the computer, or possibly there is no fuel pressure
EBP 7.9 psi?? -- seems a lot high for cranking, unless the sensor is "off"
InjPW 2472 -- should be getting injection ...if there is any fuel to the injectors
VBatt 8.8 volts -- yeah, that is a problem right there
34F there today, curious if the glow plugs work at all
Yea, I think that Low Voltage not only confuses the PCM, but that the PCM has a minimum voltage threshold that has to be met before it allows the start (later years weren't so intolerant only because that threshold was raised in their programming).
 

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Discussion Starter #15
so today i went and got two new batteries and still wouldnt start. took a while for it to start struggling to start but still no fire.
 

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So first, get rid of all that useless information! ;)

For starting purposes, I only look at these 4 things;

RPM
Voltage
ICP pressure (in psi)
IPR %

None of those values seem out-of-line (although I don't understand why your ICP would read 2900 without cranking...)

So, you have no codes? Your App is configured properly? -> Ford SuperDuty Diagnosis on the Cheap

If so, I'd be verifying you have Fuel Pressure with a gauge. Most any other No Start parameters would have set an SES light and you'd have code. Fuel Delivery does Not (no code gets set when you run dry) and you seem to have plenty of fuel and a running pump so, Pressure is next.

Then, maybe back-to-Basics

My usual No Start -

WTS Light? - do you get it when you first roll-on the key? (shows the computer is running)

Do you see cranking rpm on the Tach? Do you have a spare CPS to try?

Is there fuel in the fuel bowl now? Does it refill after cranking? (open the drain lever to check) Look above the pass ft tire, you'll see a 3/8" metal tube, against the motor that ends there, it's the drain for the bowl (yellow lever you slide to the side). Get a cup, open the lever, drain the fuel bowl, look at the fuel, close the lever. Then, turn the key to the ON position (should hear the pump) for 15 secs. Drain the fuel bowl again, whaddya got?

Can you hear/feel the pump running (below the dr seat, against the framerail)

Could the fuel gauge be giving a bad reading? (Below 1/4 tank?)

Is it cranking fast enough? - it won't even TRY to start if cranking too slowly.

Is your truck "chipped"? If so, remove it as a Test.

You can unplug the ICP sensor, as a Test, so the PCM sets a default value for the IPR to run on (expect this to set a new "Low ICP" code, don't let that misdirect you after a scan).

Did you check the plug and sheet metal nut going to the IPR? That nut can vibrate off and allow the solenoid going over the valve to slide around. The wires going to the IPR can get brittle, crack, and short together. Make sure the plug & wires look in good shape.
 

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thank you for the detailed response.

So as of today

WTS light comes on with key
The tachometer registers when cranking
Fuel bowl fills quickly when key is on
Did not get any fuel pressure from the fuel bowl.
New pump on the fuel rail
No chip or tuner
New icp
Have tried to start with pigtail supplied with 12v from battery
New IPR and new plug

previously installed after initial shutdown
Two new AB injectors passenger side rear two cylinders
New stock turbo
New EBPV
New/Used Hpop
New Hpop lines
New Undercover gasket harness
New IDM
Power probed IDM plug and OHMd injectors and glow plugs
All glow plugs have been removed and tested
Glow plug relay puts out 11.5v during last test
New Batteries
Dropped tank and removed screen filters
Installed longer draw straw and longer return line called a hutch mod
Installed universal filter housing on frame
Installed water separator on housing and rain new fuel rubber fuel lines to frame mounted fuel pump
All diesel rated rubber fuel hose used with pipe clamps

Havent done a compression test yet due to no adapter
Will do fill Hpop system with air again and look for leaks.
Have not had injectors tested yet.

PCM faulty?

thanks again
 

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@NoRalPh "
(although I don't understand why your ICP would read 2900 without cranking...)
"
Suggest having him check the ICP voltage instead of relying on pressure reading -- the voltage should always be accurate, the pressure may be interpreted wrong

@JD0156 Does the engine crank over evenly? not a real compression test, but should give a general idea
is that Torque you are using? be sure to have the Ford specific PIDs loaded from the options menu
 
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