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Towing heavy load uphill and nearing top of hill temp started to go up quickly and service engine light came on. Backed off on speed and turned off A/C and temp went down immediately. Service engine light started coming on occasionally and finally locked in. Two different parts stores tried to read code but could not get to connect.
Had the injector cups replaced about 1000 miles ago. Friend thinks possible seal on one of the cups failed causing higher pressure on oil side of cups to force oil into water. Thinking if cracked head, would not necessarily cause miss. Anybody else have thoughts?
 

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Typical scanner won't work in the 7.3. Get a blue tooth scanner and the torque pro app to read the codes. You'll also be able to see what most of the sensors are reading.

Oil in the de gas tank is a bad oil cooler or oil cooler seal. If the injector cup is bad, you'd have fuel in the coolant.


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I would recommend ForScan and the BAFX or OBDLink MX adapter
ForScan is more in depth than Torque for testing -- Torque is a good monitor tho
you would need a laptop or Android device for these
 

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oil in coolant is a failed oil cooler, not that bad of a job. Get OEM o-rings or do it again in short order.

find a way to read the code and post it, truck is telling you what's wrong.
 

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How does an oil cooler o-ring failure result in a miss and a check engine light? It doesn't.

He had the injector cups replaced 1,000 miles ago. That is an operation that is fraught with risk. There are numerous ways for that repair to fail and cause problems. With only 1,000 miles since the work, IMO, the OP is correct in jumping to the injector cups as the place to begin looking. A cracked cup or failed seal can result of loss of both fuel and HPOP at a single injector. The code will be a 301-308, depending on which injector is causing the miss.
 

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In all my years I have never seen a cracked cup -- I have seen eroded lower surfaces where the injector washer had been blown for too long -- and botched installs where the cup was not fully seated to the head, or the upper sealing surface was scratched
I have seen cups that were lifted from carbon deposits around the injectors on removal -- also cups that were damaged from freezing temperatures
but never a cup that was cracked from normal use -- I hear it a lot on these forums, so it may be an issue, just not in my experience

So, ...more likely a botched install -- looking at the injector job is where I suggest starting
 
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@Hydro I agree, a "cracked" cup is unlikely. I used the vernacular commonly used on the forum for a cup seal failure that results in liquid ingress into the cyl or cooling jacket.

My experience is with large diesels in Yachts. Up to 16 cyls of about 850hp. I've never actually had my eye-balls on the cups in a 7.3, but I've seen illustrations of the head and cups, and read the assembly instructions. The 7.3 cups are very similar to the injector cups in the Detroit 2-strokes. I am always leary of disturbing an injector in a 71 or 92 for fear of introducing a leak into the cyl where none existed prior to me touching it.

It happened to an 8V92 in a 52 Hatterass I was captain on. The engines were "surveyed" for the purchaser by a DD dealer, including compression checks, and given a clean bill of health. The next morning I delivered the boat 40 miles to complete the sale. Long story short: The compression check disturbed two injector sleeves, the coolant in the cyl bent two rods when I started it, and the loss of coolant during the 40 mile run cracked two heads and destroyed all 8 cyl kits. There were no alarms or temp indications. I was not found to be involved or responsible as the dealer had signed-off on the engines the day before. But man, this incident taught me to be careful about disturbing things if they don't need to be disturbed. I have no intention of touching the injectors in my 7.3 until something happens where they must be touched.

But yeah, you and I agree that the OP's issue is that the shop boned the injector cup renewal.
 
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