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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all, I'm new to the group but have been pulling learning from here for a couple years now...thank you. I'm hoping one of you has some advice for me. I've recently swapped my 7.3 and tranny (from F250) into a gasser f350 dually, and also converted that over to 4x4. I've kept the engine harness, chassis harness, and dash harness with the 7.3 and also obviously kept the IDM and PCM along with it as well. while I have dash and cab lights I have no WTS light and no crank from the key. I also have no power on the second pole of the gp relay when the key is on. I can crank it by jumping the solenoid but do not get a start. I've also swapped out the #1 and #2 relays and checked all underhood and dash fuses...all good. At first, while still not having a WTS light, I did have rapid clicking from the #2 relay when the key was on. After disconnecting the IDM and PCM (both with batteries disconnected) the clicking has gone away but I still have no WTS and no cranking.

Any ideas?
 

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Usually the clicking from the relay is a voltage issue (only time I saw this was a bad battery in brother-in-law's truck). Have both batteries load tested individually and check that ALL battery cable ends are clean and tight. What year are the engine, harnesses, IDM and PCM from? Automatic or manual trans? This is where you really need the Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting manual(s). Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies guys. I do not have a scanner nor ability to buzz test. But would like to know the cheapest way to get ability to buzz test. Patrick, Engine, harnesses, IDM, PCM, auto trans, etc. we’re all out of my 97 that was running great before I pulled. I’ll test the batteries. The clicking went away after reconnecting IDM and PCM...but still nothing.
 

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ForScan would be my choice for a scanner in this situation -- the PC version is the most powerful, but the phone/tablet version will do
the OBDLink MX+ is the adapter, but some get by well with the BAFX -- if you already have a different bluetooth adapter, I would try it first
Download FORScan -- you do not need the license to do what you need

Most likely you have left a ground off or a plug disconnected -- would be prudent to go back over everything and not skip over the details
look at the connectors for terminals that are damaged or pushed back

Sounds like there is no power to the PCM
easy to test the batteries by disconnecting one of the grounds and jumping the start relay, then disconnect the other ground and try again -- both batteries should crank the same
a volt meter on the battery would be good while cranking
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ForScan would be my choice for a scanner in this situation -- the PC version is the most powerful, but the phone/tablet version will do
the OBDLink MX+ is the adapter, but some get by well with the BAFX -- if you already have a different bluetooth adapter, I would try it first
Download FORScan -- you do not need the license to do what you need

Most likely you have left a ground off or a plug disconnected -- would be prudent to go back over everything and not skip over the details
look at the connectors for terminals that are damaged or pushed back

Sounds like there is no power to the PCM
easy to test the batteries by disconnecting one of the grounds and jumping the start relay, then disconnect the other ground and try again -- both batteries should crank the same
a volt meter on the battery would be good while cranking
Thanks Hydro. Can I test power to the PCM with a test light on certain connectors while it's unplugged?
 

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Oldest diagram I have is for an 02, not sure it would be the same

but to answer your question, Yes
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Oldest diagram I have is for an 02, not sure it would be the same

but to answer your question, Yes
Oldest diagram I have is for an 02, not sure it would be the same

but to answer your question, Yes
Found it. For those that end up in the same problem after re-installing the engine, it was one of the four grounds that attach to a stud in the top of the radiator support near the drivers headlight. I cleaned and repaired those...have a proper WTS light and it fired up.
 
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