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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so I swapped the engine in my 96 f350 this spring and the first fire it wasn't firing on the right side I used the engine harness from the original engine first i checked the valve cover gaskets and they didn't look burnt or anything tested them for a short and didn't find any next I pull the plug from the idm and ohmed the harness and injector solenoids and got 3.4 ohms from all eight. next i check the ground Sheild wires and they come back good so i replaced the idm and the same issue next i replaced the engine harness with a known good one that was unmolested issue still exists. so i tried another idm still no fix. i tried replacing the four injectors with four out of the old motor that i know worked still no fix. i checked the ground on the radiator support and the inner fenders and they are good. my question is can old codes keep the idm from working properly or is there and communication between the pcm and the idm the other thing i notice towards the end the tach doesn't move till it fires and u got to crank a long time before it fires. no smoke what so ever. from what i was told it ran good before pulled and that it was a ford reman with 160,000 miles on it. Any help would be appreciated thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Buzz test will tell you if the electrical side is good or not and you can trace the signal disconnect from there.
Buzz test will tell you if the electrical side is good or not and you can trace the signal disconnect from there.
ok i know when u use a test light hooke to the positive on the battery and test the signal wires in the harness plugs it dont shown ant signal
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That was at the connector that plugs into the valve cover gaskets the center wire is the power feed for 2 injectors and the signal wire for each injector is on each side of that and then the outside 2 wires are for the glow plugs
 

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Here's what I use (you probably don't need to do the glowplug portions): To check the injector/glowplug wiring: From each valvecover gasket connection's outermost pins (2 per connector) to ground you should get 0.1 to 2 ohms (indicates good plug and wiring). From each valvecover gasket connection's center pin to each immediately adjacent pin, you should get around 3 ohms (indicates good injector solenoid and wiring). You should not get any continuity from any of the outer pins to the 3 inner pins (indicates no shorts between injector and glowplug wiring). You should also get 0 to 1 ohms from each of the external harness connectors outer pins back to the Glowplug Relay's large terminal on the GP side (indicates good wiring from external connections back to the relay).

Cheers!
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So i got a scanner on it today and buzz tested it only bank 2 tested nothing from bank 1 and got a idm fault and a injector high side open circuit bank 1 codes which means I have a bad connection some where correct?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
sorry i didnt get back to u sooner i found a known good harness that i heard the truck run before removal i found a buddy that was parting out a 99 that i know ran and i stole the idm and plug out of it cause i found two stretched female pins in the harness side. i had the truck running beautifully for two days and the wife was driving it and it just shut off going down the road and i havent got it to fire since the tach registers and the wait to start light works as it should and i hear the glow plug relay but nothing and no check engine light
 
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