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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 95 F350 that wont stay running. Was parked a few years ago due to leaking oil cooler. We replaced the gaskets and CPS at same time. CPS was going bad before we parked it. After doing that the truck started and we let it run for 30-45 min with no problems. Shut truck off a few times and it restarted. After letting it sit for 30 min it will start and run for 5-10 sec then just stops. Has 2 new batteries, oil and filter, HPOP was replaced along with fuel pump not too long before it was parked. I have checked all fuses. Filter housing is filling with fuel. It will start then after it runs for a few seconds it shuts off. Does not loose power like running out of fuel, it is like you shut the key off. Then if you try to restart it it wont do anything but crank. Let it sit awhile and it will start and die just like before. Any ideas? I dont have a scanner to check for codes. Also the check engine light only comes on when the motor dies or shuts down.
 

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Do a fuel pressure test. Just because you have fuel in the bowl, doesn't mean there's enough pressure to keep the engine running.

How is it when it does run for the short time? Does it sound like a normal PSD or does it kind of bog down and run rough before dying?
 

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Johnny Law Brown
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You really need to get it scanned otherwise you are just shooting in the dark I mean u may get lucky
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Do a fuel pressure test. Just because you have fuel in the bowl, doesn't mean there's enough pressure to keep the engine running.

How is it when it does run for the short time? Does it sound like a normal PSD or does it kind of bog down and run rough before dying?


It runs just fine till it dies. No stuttering or acting like it is running out of fuel. I am trying to find a scanner to read any codes, but have not found anyone near by that has one.
 

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is she smoky?
 

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Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't a bad glowplug relay keep it from running?
 

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I'm dealing with a simlar problem what fixed part of the problem was a new camshaft/crankshaft sensor. But the one I'm workin on now is dying only one time on the first start wen it has been seting for a whole day but only will dye that one time then it is good til it sets again any ideas
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It does not smoke at all. I have had a GPR go bad before and not keep it from running, only starting. I have also already as stated changed the CPS.
 

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Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't a bad glowplug relay keep it from running?
No a bad GPR won't cause it to not run.
CPS
IDM
IPR
ICP
chaffed wiring

Those are where I would be checking. CPS you know. IPR is on the back of the HPOP and the tin nut can come loose and allow the solenoid spacer to fall off or rattle around and cause issues. ICP is in the front of the drivers side head-check for oil inside the sensor when you pull the connector off.
 

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No a bad GPR won't cause it to not run.
CPS
IDM
IPR
ICP
chaffed wiring

Those are where I would be checking. CPS you know. IPR is on the back of the HPOP and the tin nut can come loose and allow the solenoid spacer to fall off or rattle around and cause issues. ICP is in the front of the drivers side head-check for oil inside the sensor when you pull the connector off.
There's the list of parts I was looking for!
I was having a bit of a brain fart last night lol :doh:

As for the chaffed wiring, isn't the valve cover wiring harness usually the culprit?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
No a bad GPR won't cause it to not run.
CPS
IDM
IPR
ICP
chaffed wiring

Those are where I would be checking. CPS you know. IPR is on the back of the HPOP and the tin nut can come loose and allow the solenoid spacer to fall off or rattle around and cause issues. ICP is in the front of the drivers side head-check for oil inside the sensor when you pull the connector off.
Checked the ICP and it did have oil residue inside the connection. Guess maybe I need to replace that too......
 

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Discussion Starter #12
No a bad GPR won't cause it to not run.
CPS
IDM
IPR
ICP
chaffed wiring

Those are where I would be checking. CPS you know. IPR is on the back of the HPOP and the tin nut can come loose and allow the solenoid spacer to fall off or rattle around and cause issues. ICP is in the front of the drivers side head-check for oil inside the sensor when you pull the connector off.
Checked ICP it does have oil in it under the electrical plug.Unplugged it and still no start. IPR nut was loose and I tightened it. Engine still cranks but does not start. It has a fuel smell out the exhaust, with a little bit of smoke. Next I guess I will try to find a IDM. I know of two in a junk yard but are in a E series van. Will these work? Thanks
 
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