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Discussion Starter #1
so i thought the idm may be my problem but i discovered the number 8 maxi fuse was missing now i have power to pin 14 on the idm harness. tried cranking and it finally starting squirting oil out of the injector and dumping tons of white smoke out of the exhaust. it has a new cps. i had another stroker jump starting for 2 hours and cranked for 20-30 seconds and then wait 15 minutes to let batteries charge up. cranks really stong and tries to turn over just wont quite make it.

is there anything i should check. maxi fuse 22 is good and i took the fuel bowl heater out. could it just be that i had the oil and fuel lines off and the injectors out and its trying to clear all the air out of the lines and what not. last i did injector orings it took awhile to turn over but i dont remember taking 2 hours maybe i just have a bad memory lol. any input would be most appreciated

thanks jim
 

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Have you tried plugging in the block heater for a few hours prior to starting? Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Most definitely did all night. Has a new gpr and glow plugs. And new development. A black liquidish substance came out the exhaust today can't tell if its fuel oil or water
 

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Discussion Starter #4
so was doing the poor mans buzz test and all for injectors on the drivers side click. all four on the passengers side do not. according to the instructions of poor mans buzz test no click means a wiring problem or bad solenoids. i test the wiring from idm harness to uvch right up to the connections to the injectors and they all check out fine. so im guessing bad solenoids on all 4 injectors on passenger side. is it plausible that all 4 go down at the same time. can i buy just new solenoids or do i have to buy all new injectors
 

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Swap an injector (or just the solenoid) from the driver's side with one of the supposedly bad ones on the passenger side. See if it stays inop, and/or if it still passes buzz on the driver's side. The IDM is known to shut down an entire side when there's an injector or wiring issue anywhere on that side. If the inop doesn't "follow" the swapped solenoids, then I'd say it's something else on that side.

Did you test the connections on the cover gasket itself? Did you re-do the poor-man's test with the cover off? There've been stories of the connections working fine with the cover off/loose, only to go cattywumpus when you torque it down.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
did the poor mans with the covers off tool the harnesses and gasket off and test them all individually and as a system. they all check out. tomorrow when ive got more time and daylight im gonna swap the solenoids and see what happens. i wish it was the gasket i have a lifetime warranty on that thing i dont feel like dropping hundreds on new solenoids lol.
 

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Yeah, they're the ones known for flaky things like shorting out when you torque down the cover. Just for S&G, you could try swapping gaskets side-to-side, see if the problem follows or stays.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well i swapped yhe solenoids and none tested good and tgen i switched back the solenoids to where they work and still none test good. The wiring still checks out good. I think ive moved backwards. I wis there was an honest shop around here to run diagnostics but they all want to replace gpr and gps which are all new
 

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A shop should be able to clear codes, do KOEO tests, and retest before just shotgunning parts at it. Is the CEL on? Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Nope cell is off and I can pull codes but it gives me none. Would it sound odd that the injectors will test good with valve covers on but not if the covers are off?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
OK so all the wire and harnesses from idm to injector carry voltage and have right at 3 ohms. Now no solenoid will buzz with valve covers on or off or switching harnesses. Is it possible I have 8 bad all at once?
 

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so was doing the poor mans buzz test and all for injectors on the drivers side click. all four on the passengers side do not. according to the instructions of poor mans buzz test no click means a wiring problem or bad solenoids.
How are you doing this buzz test? I would like to know because I'm running into the same issue, (new injectors, valve cover gasket, harness plugs, and out of the blue all D/S injectors are dead a week after doing the injector replacement) and would like to do it also!:dunno:
 

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Make sure that the underhood fuses 8, 9, and 22 are all good and that the PCM Power Relay and IDM Relay are all good. For me, I would be checking the resistances of all the injector solenoids from the VC gasket pins (and checking to make sure NO continuity between injector pins (2, 3, and 4)and GP pins (1 and 5)). If those check OK, I would move on from the IDM connector back to the VC harness connectors. After that, I might even check the injector solenoid resistances from the IDM connector (VC connectors obviously plugged in). If all of that checks out good, I would probably try a different IDM (I have a spare for that). Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So I don't know what it was I did but it fired up. It felt like it was missing but as it was running it smoothed out I'm guessing cause it didn't run for months . Thanks for all the suggestions sorry I don't have an answer to why it wasn't running
 

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just me but. I cranked on mine once when it was real cold and it just wouldnt run. Pull the relay on top of the HPOP and make sure its full of oil or it wont start and run.
 
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