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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looks like it's back to square 1 - after a fix had it running well for several months, I let it sit a couple of weeks and again it's "no start/no fuel" to the injectors.

Earlier I put in a new lift pump (which wasn't the problem after all) and glow plugs, etc. In the end, the cut-off solenoid was stuck closed (it's an electric valve mounted on the injector pump that cuts fuel when the key is turned to the 'off' position).

Before I go through another wild goose chase, does anyone know how to check or clean up whatever makes it stick? I'll be checking for current to the terminal as soon as the batteries charge up, but I'm wondering about taking a few screws out to see it I can get at the cut-off valve without taking the entire pump off and losing all the settings.

Any help is appreciated.
 

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not ran acros the isue you are having , im wonderng if its possible that with the fuel sysem being tore down a couple times , its gotten some debris in that area causing it to get stuck
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the thought. Turns out air in the lines before the injector pump but after the lift pump. It bleeds right in between at the fuel filter schrader valve.

It took a while after all the air came out, but started and got run a few miles yesterday. The big question remaining is whether I can start it up today or have to go back to bleeding the line (which means crawling under and connecting a manual starter switch to the starter solenoid) before each startup. That's just a little too much to live with.

So, in the end the electrical connections to the fuel pump cut-off mechanism didn't seem to be the cause at least this go round. I'm thinking for short intervals (say a week or two) the fuel lines leak air and for long layoff intervals (say a month or more) it's more likely corrosion on the electric connections at the injector pump cut-off solenoid.

Hope no one else has to deal with this. Truck's too old to run right but too good to junk.
 

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Teh solenoid just has a lever that pushes the metering valve closed. If it's sticking then you probably just need to replace it. No need to tear the whole pump apart or mess up any adjustments. Just take the wires off it, take the thress screws off that hold the cover on and take the power and ground terminal nuts off and the solenoid will come right out of the top cover. No need to mess with the cold start solenoid on the side of the cover.

If the problem you are having is with the schrader valve can you just put a new core in it and have it work? Or is the leak in one of the lines or somewhere else.
 
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