Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum banner
1 - 20 of 54 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a '01 f350 super duty. Cranks but no start. Replaced ipr,cps,glow plug relay, fuel heater, lift pump and warranty replaced sending unit. Wts light comes on, no oil in icp. Unplugged one side of ucvhc plug harness at a time no start. Unplugged icp no change and ebp no change. New fuel filter in. Has a bulldog chip but I cant remove cuz I dont own the tool to remove it. Was on a job for the month of june and the night of july 13th I ran my truck till about midnight then shut it off and come 3:30 am no start. I blew the 12v charge port that night by a 12v coffee maker replaced that fuse. Oil reservoir had about 1/4 oil in it after it got flatbed towed in, filled it up. 2nd engine bought from wrecking yard with 50k something miles on it. I put another 25k on it since then. Haven't done a glow plug ohm test. any ideas. I'm thinking could be injectors, Idm or hpop. I'm not getting any codes either
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
I had same thing last winter, used the 12 acc plug for a 2 way radio and blew the fuse, then the heater for the fuel bowl shorted out and wiped the fuse for the ECM also, maybe worth a check? But I don't think my wts light was coming on at that time!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I had same thing last winter, used the 12 acc plug for a 2 way radio and blew the fuse, then the heater for the fuel bowl shorted out and wiped the fuse for the ECM also, maybe worth a check? But I don't think my wts light was coming on at that time!
Checked all fuses and all good. I did try that 12v port, after replacing fuse it still didn't work. Replaced that at home. Wts comes on. Maybe I did something to ecm from frying that port out
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,087 Posts
With a WTS, plus the ability of your scanner to communicate with the PCM, I'd think the PCM is probably just fine...

With No Codes (and you're using more than just a Generic OBD-II scanner?) I'd be think this is Fuel related.


My usual No Start -

WTS Light? - do you get it when you first roll-on the key? (shows the computer is running)

Can you verify cranking rpm signal with a scanner of some sort? Do you have a spare CPS to try?

Is there fuel in the fuel bowl now? Does it refill after cranking? (open the drain lever to check) Look above the pass ft tire, you'll see a 3/8" metal tube, against the motor that ends there, it's the drain for the bowl (yellow lever you slide to the side). Get a cup, open the lever, drain the fuel bowl, look at the fuel, close the lever. Then, turn the key to the ON position (should hear the pump) for 15 secs. Drain the fuel bowl again, whaddya got?

Can you hear/feel the pump running (below the dr seat, against the framerail)

Could the fuel gauge be giving a bad reading? (Below 1/4 tank?)

Is it cranking fast enough? - it won't even TRY to start if cranking too slowly.

Is your truck "chipped"? If so, remove it as a Test.

You can unplug the ICP sensor, as a Test, so the PCM sets a default value for the IPR to run on (expect this to set a new "Low ICP" code, don't let that misdirect you after a scan).

Did you check the plug and sheet metal nut going to the IPR? That nut can vibrate off and allow the solenoid going over the valve to slide around. The wires going to the IPR can get brittle, crack, and short together. Make sure the plug & wires look in good shape.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
*I fried that port
With a WTS, plus the ability of your scanner to communicate with the PCM, I'd think the PCM is probably just fine...

With No Codes (and you're using more than just a Generic OBD-II scanner?) I'd be think this is Fuel related.


My usual No Start -

WTS Light? - do you get it when you first roll-on the key? (shows the computer is running)

Can you verify cranking rpm signal with a scanner of some sort? Do you have a spare CPS to try?

Is there fuel in the fuel bowl now? Does it refill after cranking? (open the drain lever to check) Look above the pass ft tire, you'll see a 3/8" metal tube, against the motor that ends there, it's the drain for the bowl (yellow lever you slide to the side). Get a cup, open the lever, drain the fuel bowl, look at the fuel, close the lever. Then, turn the key to the ON position (should hear the pump) for 15 secs. Drain the fuel bowl again, whaddya got?

Can you hear/feel the pump running (below the dr seat, against the framerail)

Could the fuel gauge be giving a bad reading? (Below 1/4 tank?)

Is it cranking fast enough? - it won't even TRY to start if cranking too slowly.

Is your truck "chipped"? If so, remove it as a Test.

You can unplug the ICP sensor, as a Test, so the PCM sets a default value for the IPR to run on (expect this to set a new "Low ICP" code, don't let that misdirect you after a scan).

Did you check the plug and sheet metal nut going to the IPR? That nut can vibrate off and allow the solenoid going over the valve to slide around. The wires going to the IPR can get brittle, crack, and short together. Make sure the plug & wires look in good shape.
I say no codes but that's just a generic obd-ll. Dont have a scanner. I'll look into that. I know the generic one isn't really gonna pull a code. Since march of 2020 I haven't really used truck much until April and june of this year and it got ran and idle time on it at least for 5 hrs a day for a month on a 12hr shift. I would feel a surge driving in from work like the fuel lost pressure here and there. Bought a fuel test kit so I need to get that hooked up and see what I got.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,087 Posts
A Generic scanner will still confirm communication with a running PCM even if it's not pulling a complete code set.

If you're gonna keep & maintain the truck yourself I strongly suggest you get access to the special scanner software you need to do it.

To retrieve most of the codes you'll need to help and even do some testing look at the FORscan Lite or TorqueApp (you add an Android device and Blue Tooth Adapter for @ $30) OR the Windoze version with a USB adapter. I like this one for BT Android -> Amazon.com: Bafx Products - For Android Only - Wireless Bluetooth Obd2 Scanner Diagnostic Code Reader & Scan Tool - Scan, Reset & Clear Car Check Engine Light: Automotive

Just a few years ago you needed to buy a professional scan tool because our trucks need to have a scanner with a Library containing both the Ford Proprietary AND the Diesel Specific codes in it. Add to that, our trucks are Not, specifically, OBD-II so the Generic scanners the Auto Parts Stores have are of little use to us. But today there are some very good App based tools, that are close to what the pro tools do, for fraction of the cost.

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,065 Posts
Could also be a bad gasket on the bottom part of the reservoir or a shaft seal on the pump -- both will drain the reservoir while sitting for a time

The crankshaft oil pump should re-fill the reservoir pretty quickly when cranking -- you can leave the top plug out and see the oil fill -- a little messy, so be prepared
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,065 Posts
Have to ask -- got oil on the dip stick, right?
 
  • Like
Reactions: bc_vickers

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Lol. Yes theres oil on dipstick. When I got bcc truck towed in and checked oil reservoir is had about a 1/4 of oil in it, I refilled it, came back next day still full and did some tests and cranking and checked it today with no oil in it. I'm pretty sure something on low side is causing my issue.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,065 Posts
Sorry had to ask, you dont know how many on here do not check the oil level -- or if the oil has thinned out from diesel contamination
With the plug out, the reservoir should have over flowed in only a few cranks

Since the oil reservoir is not filling up, the oil pump could have crapped out -- not common on the 7.3, but still
You will need a puller to get the front pulley off, with an extension so the puller does not jam up the crank threads
you can cut the head off a bolt and thread the "stud" in the crank to push on

The oil pressure regulator is a little harder to get to on the 7.3, since it is in the rear part of the oil cooler

A blown o-ring on an injector "could" use enough oil out of the high pressure system to drain the reservoir
The system is designed to supply the crank and rods first, -- with the high pressure system being a lower usage of the oil volume
so, when the reservoir is filled the pressure backs up and builds for the crank and rods

Theorizing a bit here -- post what you find on the problem
 
  • Like
Reactions: ames485

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
I understand the having to ask. I'm hoping its something small and not the low side pump. I'll post what I find out. might be a day or 2. It's hot out here in west texas.
On another note, I was just thinking about this but before I went out I went and had an oil change done to it w/ shell rotella T5 synthetic blend15w-40. I'm sure probably nothing wrong with that but you never know
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I got lpop out and wont have new one til monday. Never dealt with a 7.3l lpop before so dont know what I'm actually looking for but I'll find one way or another.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,065 Posts
The two "slots" are the suction and pressure ports -- the "lands" between need to be in good shape to separate the suction from the pressure

I see some scarring on the wider of the two lands -- is it just a mark or is an actual scratch?

Also the gears in the front housing need to have about .003 clearance -- so using a straight edge and a feeler gauge measure the "gap"
I know you said you ordered a new pump -- but trying to figure what the problem with the old pump is
too much side clearance or a scratch in the lands will cause the pump to be slow to pick up oil

There could be a problem with the suction pickup tube as well
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Ok went and bought gauge and letting my fingers rest on piece of flat metal going across gears I can slide .004 under it. I also went and felt the land and I could feel like a small lip with my fingernail
 
1 - 20 of 54 Posts
Top