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KVFD
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Alright all my current mods are current in my sig except the leveling kit which i ordered. I unpluged my map sensor and i hate the damn CEL on so i was wondering is that what a boost fooler is for? to avoid the CEL?? what is the ccv mod? Tell me more little cheap tricks that give it a little help!! Thanks
 

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Pretty much it makes sure that your map sensor will never see over 25 psi. I think it is 25 psi... Once it sees 25 psi the computer starts to defuel the motor....

The CCV mod is just the crank case vent tube that vents into the intake before the turbo. Doing this mod just gets rid of the oil that fills up your intercooler, tubes and boots... the oil and gas is just vented to the back of the truck...

Just get a 4" x 3~4" long piece of exhaust tubing and replace the plastic intake tube with it. then turn the dog house around and get some 3/4" x however long you want hose and route it back behind the truck somewhere...
 

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Ole White
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Alright all my current mods are current in my sig except the leveling kit which i ordered. I unpluged my map sensor and i hate the damn CEL on so i was wondering is that what a boost fooler is for? to avoid the CEL?? what is the ccv mod? Tell me more little cheap tricks that give it a little help!! Thanks
I went with NCHORNETS CCV Mod and it works great and is easy to install
 

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Do a zoodad modification. It costs you nothing but time. The zoodad helped out my egts while pulling and guys on here say it helps throttle response.
 

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Boost fooler: Method #1 Putting a air pressure regulator set to 20psi right before the map sensor so the MAP doesnt see anything over 20psi. About $10-30 in parts. From what I have read the regulator should be set for 20psi because some trucks act different and start to defuel as low as 21-22psi.

Method #2: Zener diode is taking a 4.7V Zener diode across 2 of the wires on the map sensor wires, and it only lets 4.7 of the 5v signal reach the computer so it thinks the boost never goes over 20psi. I paypaled $1.50 to a member here and he sent me one. Its just 2 dabs of solder on the wires and a electrical tape. Unfortunately its in at my old address 1800 miles a way but that was my fault and I will put in this weekend.

CCV Crank Case vent prevents the oil vent on the driver side valve cover from blowing oil vapor into the intake which ends up coating the inside of the turbo, IC pipes, intercooler. It reroutes the crank case vent down a longer line and pretty much a catch can so the oil can dropout before it does in in the induction part of the motor. Varys from some rubber line less than $5 to fancy catch bottles upwards of $100.
 

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I think when you have a chip it overrides the computers map. I know for sure and thjis may be what you are thinking, a gas engine is drive by AF ratio so boost MAF and rpm and huge for a gas engine where in a diesel you dont have to control af ratio as much. For a diesel I take it that the map sensor on a diesel is more for protection of overboosting, than controlling fuel input.
 

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The MAP sensor on a diesel very much controlls the fuel rats. If the PCM doesn't see any boost it won't fuel. To see this leave the electrical connector plugged in and unplug the hose. When you unplug the electrical connector it goes to a preset approximation of what it thinks it would be reading based off several other sensors. I would recomend leaving it plugged in and use either a regulator or diode.

I would not recomend stripping the wires and soldering them on the diode trick. Especially if you are just going to wrap them with electrical tape. If you do solder them anything less than shrink wrap is opening yourself up to problems. As much as I hate Scotch Locks they work pretty well in this application. Just put a little silicone in it before you clamp it down so that it reseals the wire. And from the way I've seen it done before they go to one wire on the MAP and the other end goes to ground not to another wire on the connector. Though there probably is a ground wire on there by going to a ground somewhere else you are being less evasive on the factory wireing and not opening yourself up to as much potential for caroded wires and problems down the road.
 

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This is the proven diode connection. Connecting to ground would most likely do the same thing but then you have to go search for a ground when the other wire is right there.

What are your thoughts on soldering? Why would you want to have it soldered I would think it would be a far superior connection:dunno:
 

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Solder and shrink wrap would be my prefered connection as long as you know how to properly solder. However the way you have to srip the wires in this case makes it impossible to shrink wrap unless you actually cut the wires. Personally I absolulty hate cutting into or stripping factory wires of any kind and that would include useing scotch locks unless you absolutly need to. But if you aren't going to use shrink wrap the way the scotch locks pierce through the insualtion to get to the wire is going to be much less evasive on the wire than stripping a section of it so it is going to have a less likely chance for carosion later. Also if you are going to do it like you have in the picture I'd put shrink wrap around the entire diode. A shop I know uses this method and has a short wire that they ground to something close. It's been awhile since I've seen it so I'm not sure where they ground it but looks pretty clean and a lot better than a bare wire with a diode on it hanging out there.
 
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