[Grody46]

Have a 2001 7.3 installed all new glow plugs, relay, harness and it was starting amazing sat for 3 weeks went to fire it up and it needed ether and about 20 minutes of cranking to go. Ran like crap till I started it 3 days in a row and drove it a few miles. Now it runs like new but same issue 3 cranks fires, 3 cranks fires won’t start without the Cosby sauce, did every test FORScan has nothing failed. So I tore the glow plugs out and they are all operational did a out of head test on 1 on both sides (they get red hot) and tested resistance on the rest all good. White smoke trying to start only needs 1 little shot of ether then runs smooth and no issues. Pressure to fuel bowl is terrific gasket rolled on new filter and sprayed fuel 4ft out the hood. Going to buy new pressure gauge and test for bleed because it’s completely fine until it’s sat for 8 hours and fully cooled. Fuel bowls full, no visible leaks motor is clean and low mileage. Anyone have an idea of what could be culprit other than bleed back or hpop? (which I’ll be testing tomorrow) also if it is bleeding down what would the cause be? Considering injectors are fine because it would likely start at a higher idle with a cylinder filled and a shot of ether starts and runs at regular idle.

 

[NoRalPh]

Oh Man...

You have confirmed that the Glow Plugs are working AND you're liberally applying the "Cosby Sauce"? Who Knows the kind of damage you've done to your engine (nobody's told how bad a thing like that is to do?) I don't know how Long or how Much you've been doing this but STOP RIGHT NOW!!!! Spray with Anything but Either...

Next, Forget the plugs, they are Not Needed At ALL for starting unless it's Very Cold out (if I went and disconnected my GPR I doubt I could tell the difference in starting today)

I think the ONE thing you're on-track with is that the HPOP reservoir is draining (we would have told you here that on day 1) and that that you need to monitor its level as it sits. Take the Allen plug out of the lid and dip down onto the reservoir to measure the oil level inside. You should find the oil about 1" down from the top and it shouldn't go any lower as it sits (once empty, you have to wait until the LPOP can refill it before you start making HiPres Oil).

BUT,,, this should all be evident by monitoring the right sensors with ForScan.

Whenever you have starting problems the first thing you want to do is to configure you app (TorqueApp is actually a easier to make 4 lg gauges with) to monitor;

ICP Pressure (you'd have None of the res was empty)
IPR % (shows how hard the system is working to try to make good pressure)
RPM (to confirm that the PCMs Minimum threshold of 100 is being met)
System Voltage while Cranking (Again meets PCMs threshold)

Unfortunately, if you've been at the Either a lot you may have broken internals from the Severe predetonation the combination of working plugs and the low flashpoint of Either causes...

 

[Grody46]

Oh Man...

You have confirmed that the Glow Plugs are working AND you're liberally applying the "Cosby Sauce"? Who Knows the kind of damage you've done to your engine (nobody's told how bad a thing like that is to do?) I don't know how Long or how Much you've been doing this but STOP RIGHT NOW!!!! Spray with Anything but Either...

Next, Forget the plugs, they are Not Needed At ALL for starting unless it's Very Cold out (if I went and disconnected my GPR I doubt I could tell the difference in starting today)

I think the ONE thing you're on-track with is that the HPOP reservoir is draining (we would have told you here that on day 1) and that that you need to monitor its level as it sits. Take the Allen plug out of the lid and dip down onto the reservoir to measure the oil level inside. You should find the oil about 1" down from the top and it shouldn't go any lower as it sits (once empty, you have to wait until the LPOP can refill it before you start making HiPres Oil).

BUT,,, this should all be evident by monitoring the right sensors with ForScan.

Whenever you have starting problems the first thing you want to do is to configure you app (TorqueApp is actually a easier to make 4 lg gauges with) to monitor;

ICP Pressure (you'd have None of the res was empty)
IPR % (shows how hard the system is working to try to make good pressure)
RPM (to confirm that the PCMs Minimum threshold of 100 is being met)
System Voltage while Cranking (Again meets PCMs threshold)

Unfortunately, if you've been at the Either a lot you may have broken internals from the Severe predetonation the combination of working plugs and the low flashpoint of Either causes...

As far as damage from ether one squirt like a application of cologne is hardly enough to do damage. Double fisting two extra large cans probably gonna be a hefty $. I’ll configure the gauges and check it out tha

 

[NoRalPh]

As far as damage from ether one squirt like a application of cologne is hardly enough to do damage.

Did ya ever build one of those Potato Cannons? (PVC tube/plug/gas grill Ignitor)

When you get the mixture right, just a "waft" of either fumes, that sucker throws the potato out-of-sight and "rings your ears" when it does Too "rich" and you get an Orange flame "bloop" and the potato moves 3/4 way up the tube...

 

[Grody46]

 

[Grody46]

3 cranks one fire no leak back and if it is started with a spritz runs smoother than most 7.3s literally the only issue is actually getting it to start the first time in a day. no codes no leaks it’s weird af that’s why I asked if there’s something I’m missing

 

[Jimmy's Pilot Service]

EPCV???
If I remember correctly that is system reference voltage. If that is the case and in fact you have 9.97 volts you do not have enough for the PCM. Again if I am remembering correctly you need 10.5 while cranking.
If that is the case what is the resting battery voltage?

 

[NoRalPh]

You have many things that surprise me here...

2.5v reference? (I don't look at that but I would think it shouldn't go under 5v for the sensors to work properly- see if unplugging the EBPS changes that)
RPM is much faster than I expect to see and, often, that's what "spraying" (again with anything) usually does to get it to start. It "bumps-up" the RPM (and with it, HPOP pressure, to meet the PCMs requirements)
IPR it higher than it should be I think but not crazy high when you have no pressure being made
ICP is too high, high enough to make me think that this is actually the default pressure that the PCM sets when it doesn't see the ICP sensor (but this should also set a Low ICP code) maybe unplug the ICP and see if that code appears...

10v shouldn't keep you from starting, 2000 and below need to see 10v or so (and 9.97, especially after cranking for some time, is good enough) and the '02's&3's will start down to 9v (2001 is a transitional year, you may have either a 2000 or an '02's PCM requirement)

 

[Grody46]

tested ipr with 12v temp power unplugged icp and tried starting no luck. Hooked it all back up ran wd-40 into it until it started there was a injector tick by ccv and I remember when pulling a glow plug to have a visual of proper operation there seemed to be a abundance of oil sitting on 2 of them right where tick was. Let it run till warm then it went away and sounded healthy. So I’ve got 8 sets of orings and a ipr ipc kit just for piece of mind. It makes sense because I ran gauges and while starting it was showing 280+ when running once warm it was 480-550 at 1500 rpm when cold it was jumping from 300-415 until the tick stopped.